Silly mauser question

N

NateG

Inactive
I saw a vz-24 barreled action (no bolt) for $25 at the last gun show but someone bought it before I got back from the ATM. It (and all the other mauser threads) got me thinking about building up my own rifle... but I've got a question. What goes into making sure the extractor cut in the barrel lines up properly when the barrel is screwed on? Also, what tools are needed to install a barrel, action wrench/barrel vise, reamers, headspace gauges, anything else? And what are the steps to install one?

Thanks,
NateG
 
Mauser question

Can't put it all in this reply.If you look in Midway or Brownell's orPrecision shooting mag,you can find books specific to precision rebarrelng.Nearly always,no extractor cut is necessary on the 98.The barrel bottoms out on the diaphram inside the reciever ring .
 
Hmmm... I'll have to take another look at the mauser's I've got when I get back from my business trip to the other side of the world.
 
As far as the VZ-24 and other Mauser 98's go, the answer is simple. There is no extractor cut in the barrel. The barrel breeches up against an internal ring in the receiver and the extractor cut is in that.

Now, ask me a hard one.

Jim
 
Screw new barrel in hand tight. Put it in barrel vise and action in wrench tighten everything and then torque barrel down. Cut chamber with reamer until the bolt closes with go gauge in chamber, but not no-guage.
There it is now done. There are several other steps such as not getting chips in the way and pushing the reamer in straight etc.
And the tools if purchased will cost as much as a new rifle. But if you want to do it it not hard:rolleyes:
There are books and DVDs that will show how to do it.
Or you can find a gunsmith who will do any or all parts of the project for you.
If any question just ask anyone here.
And a metal lathe to correct that oops that may happen. I have one where the customer brought one in that he treid to use a pull reamer but he turned it with a drill motor instead of by hand.
 
Last edited:
Even if you have a fully threaded barrel, you will have to make sure the barrel breeches up tight against the internal ring at the same time it comes tight at the shoulder. Having it tight only at one point can affect accuracy as well as headspacing.

Jim
 
I have ~ a dozen VZ24s I have bent the bolt and drilled and tapped.

Only a few have been rebarrelled.

VZ24s were plentiful and cheap 5 years ago.

Not so now.

24/47 are around now, are cheap, and in much better shape.
http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Yugoslavian_VZ24_47_8mm_Mauser_Package.html
They are not as long.
The 3.34" cartridges [30-06, 300 win mag, etc] are possible with a VZ24 [mill out both ends of the mag well].

The 24/47 are just as good for the intermediate cartrdiges [6mmRem, 257 Roberts, 6.5 Swede, 7mm Mauser, 8mm Mauser] and just fine for the short cartridges [ 22-250, 243, 250S, 260, 7mm-08, 308, 358].


So if you want to shoot Anne Elk, leave the Mauer in 8mm.
For something smaller, you can rebarrel.
 
Mauser

Dear Sir:
You must have the correct measurements made and the bbl. - reciever, bolt and headspace all in sync.
The 8MM Mauser cartridge is a fine cartridge of loaded to European standards (50,000 cup pressure).
I just got a premium 8MM bbl. from douglas for my own Mauser.
You might want to search out my Mauser article here to start you.
Harry B.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top