Siler Locks

Found out that for Siler Lock kits, Jim Chambers recommends moving the sear hold .010" down and .010 towards the tail of the lockplate. Similarly the rear bridle hole should also be moved .010 down and .010 towards the rear. This changes the geometery of the lock and gives you a longer throw with more energy.
 
Just the kits and not the pre-builts. Too late for that on the prebuilts. I suspect that any newer lock assembled by Silers have had this done to them.
 
I used pre-assembled Silers on several builds some 20 or 25 years ago and honestly, they worked just fine and at the time, were considered some of the best. The info is greatly appreciated though as improvements can always be made and Jim Chambers is well known and respected for his oork and expertise.

Just to be clear - I'm sure the locks that Jim makes are done now with this improvement - but have the design been changed to reflect this improvement so that any Siler lock is now to those specs?

Thanks for the post and the information!
 
Jim does that on all his new production locks. He can even make any lock you want with a brass lock plate and pan.

I posted this info for anyone who has an unfinished Siler lock kit.
 
Thanks Gary. It's been a number of years since I have been to Friendship but when I was going, it was always a pleasure to stopbt fis booth to see everything. I didn"t know he was doing brass plates - that conjurs up a whole lot of possibilities for a build! Thanks again for posting the info - interesting and appreciated! :)
 
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