Sighting In

M

manowar

New member
I recently got a couple Leupold scopes for two of my Ruger Model 1's.

What is the best way to sight these in? Actually, for that matter, what is the best way to sight in a rifle? I've hear use the bench, don't use the bench, use the bench with a sandbag rest but don't let your hand touch it, two sandbag rests, etc etc.

I welcome any and all advice.

Many Thanks - manowar (new guy)
 
Shoot first at a 50 yard target. Lock down forearm and hand stock. (it will move with each shot (if not in a lead sled). Shoot 5 shots with a steady squeeze of the trigger (not a pull). See where the cluster of shots form. Move the elevation on wind-age accordingly. Shoot 5 more shots and repeat the adjustments. When satisfied, move to 100 yards and repeat the practice until you are laying in to the bull's eye.

Remember to take a full breath before each shot, and hold your breath before the trigger break. Keep both feet separate and flat on the ground.
 
I beg to differ a bit. What you said was right but if you want to waste the least ammo shoot the rifle off a rest at 10-15 yards. That will make sure you're even hitting paper. Don't worry about shooting bulls eyes and just migrate the bullet toward the center of the target. Then move out 25, 50, and 100. It should only really involve tweaking the elevation.

I zeroed 2 scopes today up to 25 yards in 6 shots or less. I couldn't get on the 100 yard range since there was a long line.

 
I've always used sandbags on a benchrest, trying to take as much of "me" out of the equation as possible. I consistently have any and all sandbags in the same location, shot after shot.

For iron sights or a scope in low mounting, I go for dead center at 25 yards. With a scope, that's usually three inches high or so at 100 yards, and an inch or so to one side or the other. After experienced practice in bore-sighting, it usually takes maybe three shots.

After that, it's three-shot groups until I center a group at about two inches high at 100 yards. For most deer cartridges faster than a .30-30 but less than the magnums, that's a 200-yard zero, give or take a bit. Around six inches low at 300 yards.
 
I am with Mr. Eatman for the most part, though I like to sight in for Maximum Point Blank Range from ballistics software. I also double check from regular shooting positions after sandbagging. While I have yet to make any corrections for modern rifles, I did have to adjust on my uncle's long barreled flintlock from offhand: the barrel climbed enough before the ball exited that I hit notably high compared to the sandbags. (Handguns get really bad in that respect.)
 
Last edited:
A laser bore sighter will pay for itself by the time you sight-in 5-6 rifles. Mine has returned it's cost 20 times over in the 10-15 years I've had it. Used properly, it can also check for mis-aligned scopes in the field w/o firing a shot.
W/o a bore sighter, you need to start up close(25 yards) to make sure you're "on paper". Absolutely, you need to use some sort of support-you're adjusting the scope NOT testing your shooting ability. Sandbags on a bench is a good way but a rolled up blanket on a folding table is better than nothing at all.
Once you get the scopes dialed in, THEN you can begin to determine if various types of rests/no rest affects your POI.
 
I thought this might be a proposed situation where everyone has done it so often the minor details can get overlooked.

For instance, with a rest: does the barrel ever touch the rest or is it always supported by my hand & arm, which are braced against a rest?

Many Thanks for helping me out on this.
 
For instance, with a rest: does the barrel ever touch the rest or is it always supported by my hand & arm, which are braced against a rest?
Click to expand...
The barrel shouldn't touch anything at all

The forearm should sit on the bags, and the rear of the stock should sit on a small bag you can use to adjust elevation

The less contact you have with the rifle, the better

Get comfortable and take your time and it will usually only require a few rounds to get it zeroed

This picture shows the ideal position

Go to the ad and click on the guy at the bench for a better view:
http://www.slickguns.com/product/cabelas-pinnacle-shooting-bench-19999

On hard recoiling rifles, some like to hold the forearm, but varying amounts of pressure can change the POI
 
Last edited:
On any rifle that you can look through the barrel from the breach: carefully prop the rifle on the bench or whatever so you can look through the barrel at any distant object without touching the rifle. Then adjust the scope until the crosshairs are centered on the same object. Then shoot one careful shot or two on a large target at not more than 100 yards. If you miss the target board entirely, recheck your bore alignment and shoot at a closer target and adjust accordingly. I use just one shot for, "groups", until I get it roughed in. For a 270 Winchester I like about a 300 yard zero, which is also about right on at 25 or so yards and up to 3 or so inches high at it's zenith somewhere midrange. At long range I use 5 shot groups for load evaluation as 3 shots are insufficient to mean much of anything.
For a 30-30, I like to zero at 150 yards.
 
Thanks very much, guys. Thank You Snyper for breaking it down by every detail so a simpleton like me can clearly understand, I appreciate it.

And another hearty thanks to all of you who shared your methods, I find many will be useful to me.

I'm a new guy here, this is my third post and I just have to say I'm very impressed with the knowledge and attitudes shown by so many of the members here. I'm really glad I stumbled on this site.
 
There are guys who post on TFL that are or have been among the best shots in the world.

I represent the average guy who shoots deer, not a national level competitor.

How I sight in a rifle:
1) I take huge care that the Weaver or Picatinny mount in the front is parallel and co planar with the mount in the rear so there will be no ring lapping. A one piece scope base takes care of this without glass bedding and fixturing the bases.
2) I bore sight the rifle.
3) With the reticle adjusted the center of the scope tube, the rifle should appear to be bore sighted. If not, start over.
4) I make a chart from Quicktarget for my bullet, velocity and distance from bore center to barrel center.
5) The chart will show something like the point of impact should be 1" high at 100 yards for a 200 yard zero.
6) I go to the local 100 yard range and shoot at an 8.5"x11" target stapled at 50 yards. If it hits 4 inches to the left and 2 inches low, I then adjust up one moa and 2 moa to the right.
7) I fire another round at 50 yards. If it is close to the bullseye, I switch to shooting at 100 yards.
8) I shoot some groups at 100 yards. The big game rifles should get 1.5" groups, the varmint rifles should average 0.75" or give up on the rifle, ammo, shooter, scope, or wind situation.
9) I go to the hunting area before hunting season. I do some scouting and some target practice. I setup targets at 100, 200, 300, 400, and 500 yards. I shoot prone with a bipod like I would hunting. I use the holes in the targets to tell me how to correct my chart from step #4 above, and I rate myself for max range to shoot at game. Some years I am only good to 300 yards in wind and 400 yards in no wind. Some years with some rifles, I can keep the bullets inside a 12" kill zone centered on the bullseye out to 500 yards. I come back to my targets day after day to make sure I can put the first bullet inside the kill zone. All that getting in and out of the vehicle [you don't think I WALK 500 yards, do you?] is good practice for using the range finder and loading the gun and getting on the ground. That way when I see a deer, it is just one more target to plug.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top