2GunCorcoran
New member
I have a new scoped rifle I need to sight in. Any advice?
Sighting in a new rifle
- Thread starter 2GunCorcoran
- Start date
the rifleer
New member
I suggest shooting a shot from a steady position at a safe target and adjust the scope as needed.
BigMikey76
New member
There is some good advice in this thread about the same topic
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=471810
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=471810
Bench the rifle on bags both front & back. Fire 2 fouling rounds, unless you want a first round cold bore zero.
Bore sight if your rifle allows this.
Fire 3 rounds slowly & carefully before making any scope adjustments. Adjust scope to center of 3-shot group.
Tap scope after adjustments to settle the inner tube.
Repeat as needed.
Once you have a dead-on zero off the bags make a note of the turret's settings.
Now shoot the same group as you'd normally fire (prone, sitting whatever) & adjust as needed.
Bore sight if your rifle allows this.
Fire 3 rounds slowly & carefully before making any scope adjustments. Adjust scope to center of 3-shot group.
Tap scope after adjustments to settle the inner tube.
Repeat as needed.
Once you have a dead-on zero off the bags make a note of the turret's settings.
Now shoot the same group as you'd normally fire (prone, sitting whatever) & adjust as needed.
Major Dave (retired)
New member
Start at 25 yards
Fire 3 rounds, from a steady rest.
Adjust the scope, remembering that a one inch "miss" at 25 yards is the equivalent of a 4 inch miss at 100 yards. In other words, to move the point of impact (POI) one inch on a 25 yard target will require 16 clicks, if your scope adjustments are calibrated for 1/4 inch per click at 100 yards.
After firing 3 rounds, initially, determine the center of the group, then adjust to bring that center in line with the center of your target. If your 3 round "group" is overly large (greater than 2 inches at 25 yards), start over and shoot a new 3 round group.
Use a small aiming point. I put a 1/4 inch diameter blaze orange "sticker" in the middle of whatever target I am using. Typically a target may have a one inch, or even larger center ring. "Aim small, miss small" is the axiom.
If your POI is off in both elevation and windage, work with only windage until you get it centered, then work on elevation with additional 3 round groups. Trying to do both at the same time only complicates things, especially with newbies.
Hope this helps you at least get started with the process. There can be a lot more to it, but it may also be just this simple.
When you have both the windage and elevation "spot on" at 25 yards, put up a target at 100 yards and start the process over.
Remember to "aim small", use only 3 round groups of 2 inches or less size, and adjust only one aspect (either windage or elevation) at a time.
Good luck.
Fire 3 rounds, from a steady rest.
Adjust the scope, remembering that a one inch "miss" at 25 yards is the equivalent of a 4 inch miss at 100 yards. In other words, to move the point of impact (POI) one inch on a 25 yard target will require 16 clicks, if your scope adjustments are calibrated for 1/4 inch per click at 100 yards.
After firing 3 rounds, initially, determine the center of the group, then adjust to bring that center in line with the center of your target. If your 3 round "group" is overly large (greater than 2 inches at 25 yards), start over and shoot a new 3 round group.
Use a small aiming point. I put a 1/4 inch diameter blaze orange "sticker" in the middle of whatever target I am using. Typically a target may have a one inch, or even larger center ring. "Aim small, miss small" is the axiom.
If your POI is off in both elevation and windage, work with only windage until you get it centered, then work on elevation with additional 3 round groups. Trying to do both at the same time only complicates things, especially with newbies.
Hope this helps you at least get started with the process. There can be a lot more to it, but it may also be just this simple.
When you have both the windage and elevation "spot on" at 25 yards, put up a target at 100 yards and start the process over.
Remember to "aim small", use only 3 round groups of 2 inches or less size, and adjust only one aspect (either windage or elevation) at a time.
Good luck.
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
Read the links posted. Good start. I say start, but I believe to get a more accurate conclussion to getting a zero based on how you shoot.
Go ahead and walk your way to the center of the target at the distance you want your zero. But don't stop there.
Lets say you want to target or plink, requiring several rounds at a session. Once you get what you think is your zero set up a target and fire 20 or so rounds. Take your target and draw lines dividing it into 4 quarters. 12 to 6 o'clock, and 3 to 9 o'clock. Count your shots to determine how many shots are in each quarter. Adjust and shoot again. Keep doing this until you get an equal number of shots in each target.
This method will give you a true zero, weeding out the errors you get with 3 or 5 shot groups, hot or cold, fouled or clean barrels.
Now lets assume you are talking about hunting rifles, where the first, cold bore, shot is critical. Get your three shot groups centered as mentioned.
Then take one target, go out ever day for a week or so, (the more shots the more accurate your zero). Fire one shot a day. Regardless of weather or conditions. Take your target down so you can protect it for the next days shooting. Use the same target every day. Be sure you use a level to get your target set up the same. It don't matter if you clean your rifle or not. If you start your hunt with a clean bore, then make each days shot with a clean bore. If you use fouling shots then dont clean the gun.
After a week or so, (again the more shots the more accurate the zero) take your target down divide it into quareters and adjust until you get an equal number of shots per quarter.
With these metods, it doesn't matter how good you shoot, you can still get an accurate zero. One inch group or three inch group, if you center the group, its zeroed.
And when you zero, (after getting the three shots as close to the center as possible) zero from the position you are going to shoot. If you shoot competition such as high power, zero in high power positions. If you are zeroing your rifle for hunting, use your normal hunting position to zero your rifle.
Like any other task you take up, the more effert you put in your zero the more accurate your zero will be.
Go ahead and walk your way to the center of the target at the distance you want your zero. But don't stop there.
Lets say you want to target or plink, requiring several rounds at a session. Once you get what you think is your zero set up a target and fire 20 or so rounds. Take your target and draw lines dividing it into 4 quarters. 12 to 6 o'clock, and 3 to 9 o'clock. Count your shots to determine how many shots are in each quarter. Adjust and shoot again. Keep doing this until you get an equal number of shots in each target.
This method will give you a true zero, weeding out the errors you get with 3 or 5 shot groups, hot or cold, fouled or clean barrels.
Now lets assume you are talking about hunting rifles, where the first, cold bore, shot is critical. Get your three shot groups centered as mentioned.
Then take one target, go out ever day for a week or so, (the more shots the more accurate your zero). Fire one shot a day. Regardless of weather or conditions. Take your target down so you can protect it for the next days shooting. Use the same target every day. Be sure you use a level to get your target set up the same. It don't matter if you clean your rifle or not. If you start your hunt with a clean bore, then make each days shot with a clean bore. If you use fouling shots then dont clean the gun.
After a week or so, (again the more shots the more accurate the zero) take your target down divide it into quareters and adjust until you get an equal number of shots per quarter.
With these metods, it doesn't matter how good you shoot, you can still get an accurate zero. One inch group or three inch group, if you center the group, its zeroed.
And when you zero, (after getting the three shots as close to the center as possible) zero from the position you are going to shoot. If you shoot competition such as high power, zero in high power positions. If you are zeroing your rifle for hunting, use your normal hunting position to zero your rifle.
Like any other task you take up, the more effert you put in your zero the more accurate your zero will be.