Sight adjustments for longer distances

T

tools

New member
I'm heading to my first NRA sponsored match next weekend and have only shot up to 200 yards so far. My rifle is zeroed for 200. What number of 1/4 MOA clicks will I need to put on to move from the 200 to the 300 yard line, and then to the 600 yard line?

I plan to shoot Sierra 69g at 200, Sierra 77g at 300, and Sierra 80g. at 600. I use 23.5g N135 for the 69s, 23g Varget for the 77's, and 23.5g Varget for the 80s.
 
What you're asking for are known as the 'come-ups' for a given range. These are very rough elevation estimates. They should get you close enough that your sighters are on target.

100yds to 200yds = 2 MOA ( so 8 clicks on a 1/4 MOA sight )
200yds to 300yds = 2.5 MOA ( You'll often see from 2 - 3 MOA advised )
300yds to 600yds = 12 MOA


The come-ups to 300yds tend to be pretty accurate, in my experience. But there's a lot more variability when making the jump from 300 to 600 (e.g. these might vary by 2 min or more.)

You should also study MOA intervals of the regions of the targets - i.e. how many minutes diameter a given target's 10 ring is, how far it is from the 8 to the bullseye etc.. The HP scorebooks tend to have scoring diagrams w/ MOA scales. These are a big help when sighting-in.
 
Good advice so far... Also don't hesitate to ask another shooter when you get to the match. I haven't seen a high power shooter yet who wouldn't bend over backwards to help someone get started.

Tim
 
Just dont bug them while they are "gearing up" and about to take the line. Especially when they are watching the wind/mirage, adjusting their sights and centering their breathing. Gewt 'em while the jackets are still off.
 
I shoot 68 grain bullets at 200 and 300 and 80 grains at 600.

My rifle has half minute clicks.

I come up 5 from 200 to 300 and 26 from 300 to 600.

The scoring rings are huge at 600. If you are even close to having the right elevation you will hit paper and you can adjust from there.
 
Tools, another little tidbit......always go to mechanical zero and count up at each target range.

This way there will never be any doubt if you have the right dope on. I've seen too many guys forget to put their dope on or put their dope on twice. Since I shoot a couple of different rifles for highpower, John C. Garand matches and the like I put each rifles dope on the back of the score books clip board. I color code each rifle. It has bit me once or twice when I put the brown rifles dope on the green gun....:o
 
Good advice about backing down to zero in elevation and windage whenever you take your rifle off the firing line and make sure you have entered your sight corrections that you used into your book. I put a little "dope card" on the stock of my rifle with tape. I also mark my sight's zeros with white-out or something similar. If you are shooting an AR, I would also recommend again marking with white-out your front sight base to the barrel to ensure there is not sight base "cant" going on.
 
Tools, another little tidbit......always go to mechanical zero and count up at each target range.
Click to expand...

+1
And write it down. Make sure you always stick with real zeros and not ones you've made up in your head. A lot of guys place too much emphasis on what they think it should be instead of what it actually is and lose points repeatedly.
 
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