Sig sauer p250 long pull

G

gbc123

New member
Is there any way to reduce the length of the trigger pull without affecting the smoothness or weight?
Ideally ¼ to ⅜ of an inch.
 
You can reduce creep on pistols with a sear system, but if I recall, this is a DA only, and has no real sear. That is why each trigger pull has a good bit of creep. The only thing I could think of, would be modifying the trigger bar some how, to bring it closer to the hammer, so it would start pushing it back quicker than what it now does. However, there may not be any room to do this.

It's been a while since I tinkered with these, and I can't remember if there is any slack in the trigger bar or not. I don't think there is.
 
Thank you, this seems to be the general consensus, as much as the gun has improved my overall shooting abilities, for combat or carry a little would go a long way, do you know of any similar firearm that would be comparible with a slightly shorter pull?
 
It has happened that I have lost men in low ammo combat due to catching the safety as I try chamber my first round of a new mag, hence the da preference I now have. In my experience, simplicity seems to bring more home.
 
About all you can do is buy a double action, or DA, or even a SA using a sear. The single action sear system leaves the hammer cocked after each round, so you have a very short amount of creep before the sear lets go. You also have much less trigger pull. The double action type, using a sear and hammer pull, still has more travel in the uncocked or hammer pull mode, as the trigger has to to pull the hammer back, like the Sig. That is the fault of any DA system, trigger travel, and heavier trigger pull when uncocked.

The Sig is a SA, however it uses a system similar to a DA, but it doesn't use a sear for the hammer to cock on. The trigger bars hook catches the hammer, and pulls it back far enough that it drops off the hook and fires.
 
It's not right, but I did it anyway. Using some bakolite I built up the hammer <5/32. And built the back of the pin minutely. Shortened the pull by ¼". Just enough that my finger doesn't move across the trigger as I pull. 300 rounds and no light strikes... Increased the slideweight in the hammer slightly to make sure. Thank you for your help as a sear went into my p320 and has made all the difference. Have a good one, lc gbc
 
You're welcome, and glad to have helped. If you could find a good local gunsmith/machinist to make those parts up for you, out of steel, and temper the parts that need to be, you would have a good kit to possibly market, as long as it is safe.
 
Maybe, but really all you have to do is build the hammer up a little, I just went overboard to keep reliability. Who knows maybe I'll machine a molds someday for the hammer
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top