SIG firing-pin lock

FlashRecoil,
The "patented automatic firing pin block" locks the firing pin in place until the trigger is pulled. When you pull the trigger it moves the trigger bar. The trigger bar operates the safety lever which raises the safety lock freeing the firing pin. There are four safety systems on the Sig: 1) Automatic firing pin block
2) Decocking lever
3) Hammer safety intercept notch
4) Disconnector
I am a Sig armorer so if you have anymore questions post them and I'll do my best to answer them.

Mrat
 
Mrat,
Since you mentioned that your a SIg armorer, I have a question for you. In the April issue of the NRA's American Rifleman there is a small article about the Sig E.P.L.S.
What are the workings behind the electronic locking mechanism? Just curious!

FlashRecoil, Sorry for a question on your question!

Thanks!
 
rinoray,
It is funny you ask about it, I got my American Rifleman today and saw it today for the first time. I almost had to take a valium, I think it is a bad idea. I do not know how it works but I am not happy about it! Anything built into the gun like that is bad news, I would be worried about it failing. Also I am worried about the idiot politicians requiring that the technology be on ALL guns.

I will contact Sig and try to get some info, study it, then post a reply once I figure out how it works. My guess is it electronicaly locks the trigger bar which is operated by the trigger.

Also I do not work for Sig, I am a ceritified LEO Sig aromorer. I looked at my earlier post and it was kind of vague on the armorer thing.

[This message has been edited by mrat (edited March 26, 2000).]
 
I also attended a SIG school some years back. We had a number of people using 220s and had excellent luck with them (I eventually got one myself after retirement!) I routinely detail stripped, cleaned, and checked out each officer's gun once a year, including the SIGs. Enough (a lot) of firing tends to upset the firing pin/block surfaces, and while it was minor it was something I didn't care for too much. It never got beyond a nagging annoyance and light stoning took care of it, but it's one more damn gadget to give trouble someday. Personally I'd rather take my chances with the 1911's Model A engineering, long term. God knows what other garbage is going to start showing up inside guns as we go along. (Just put new springs inside a NM Ruger Blackhawk--a 15 minute job extended into 1.5 hours--but that's another story.)

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myrat,
Question re: Sigs/ How difficult is it to replace the firing pin on my P220 .45? I am fairly proficient in taking it apart but have never taken out the locking block in the slide that contains the firing pin. Can I reuse the roll pins or should I replace them? Any tricks re: The firing pin safety or lining things up to replace the pins?
Thanks,
Bob
 
Oldspeed: I will jump in here and hopefully cover your question. The process itself isn't too bad, but you should use new roll pins (metric and available only from SIG, of course). It takes a little practice. I must admit that I don't see a real need to do it very often, so I wonder why you would want to...

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Oldspeed,
The firing pins cannot be reused according to Sig. It is easy if you know what you are doing. A gun could be damaged easily. If you know an armorer or an LEO that has access to an armorer I would go that route. I agree with Robert though, why would you want to? If you still want to do it yourself I can post the directions?
 
Robert @ mrat
My P220 appears to have a chip in the end of the firing pin. What is the procedure to replace it . I have a new Sig.firing pin and roll pins.
Thanks
Bob
 
In my earlier post where I said firing pin I meant roll pin.
You will need a brass hammer and a 1/8" roll pin.
1. Field strip the weapon.
2. Knock out the roll pins on the slide.
3. Remove the breech block from the slide.
4. Push the firing pin forward with your
punch, remove firing pin safety lock and
spring from the breech block.
5. Remove firing pin and spring from the
breech block.

Assembly
1. Put the firing pin back into the breech
block with the cut-outs pointing up into
the top of the slide.
2. Push the firing pin forward, insert the
firing pin safety lock onto the breech
block locking the firing pin into the
breech block.
3. Put the firing pin safety lock spring
in the safety lock.
4. Place the breech block back into the
slide.
5. Drive the roll pins through the slide and
the breech block working from the left
side of the slide to the right side.
Make sure the outer roll pin opening is
at 12 o'clock and the inner roll pin is
at 6 o'clock. When you drive the roll
pins through, depress the firing pin
slightly to allow the rolling pins to go
through.

Goodluck.
Mrat
 
This may sound obvious, but the roll pins should be started in the slide before you insert the breech block. After the install, function check the firing pin safety lock.
 
Thanks guys for the detailed info. One last question on the firing pin project for the P220? Do I replace both roll pins at one time or put the larger i.d. pin first then the second one onside it?
Thanks,
Bob
 
P220

I have an older P220 (with the heel-mount mag release) and was wondering
A) what's involved in removing the firing block
B) what product(s) should be used to re-blue the slide
 
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