Sig 220 Wolf Recoil spring Problem

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drdirk

New member
I have an older Sig 220 that I shot a few days ago. The gun has about 1500 rounds through it so I decided to change the recoil spring. I bought a WOLF Sig 220 Standard 20 lb spring and put it in. I noticed that it is quite a bit longer than my factory spring and it is VERY difficult to place it in the slide. Is this normal? I finally after many minutes of trying was able to assembly it but I wonder why it is so difficult to put a simple recoil spring in??? Any tricks?

What weight springs are you guys putting in a Sig 220? I am shooting factory ammo (no +P) and my somewhat lighter reloads.

Thanks for any help,

DrDirk
 
Put the old one back? I thought a good precaution is to replace the recoil spring every 2k rounds or so?
 
A common misconception.
Properly designed and made springs don't lose strength, unless the spring is stressed past it's elastic design limit.
Properly designed guns don't overstress springs.
 
I encountered the same situation, exactly, when trying to use a Wolf Spring in a P226-- earlier generation.

Too easy to call Sig Sauer and order xtra springs so they'll be on hand when you need them. There are a number of different parts you'd do well to have on hand for quick replacement.

Once you order from a rep, you can Email them for future orders, since they'll still have your CC info from previous orders.
 
I bought a WOLF Sig 220 Standard 20 lb spring and put it in. I noticed that it is quite a bit longer than my factory spring and it is VERY difficult to place it in the slide.
Click to expand...

Springs are rated based on the pressure needed to compress them. Just because the spring is longer doesn't mean it's not going to work correctly; the individual coil dimensions and diameters can be different but the specs are the same. A metaphor:

2 x 10 = 20
5 x 4 = 20

Same result, same function in the gun.

I don't know the CW on springs in Sigs, but the CW on a recoil spring in a 1911s is about 3k, mostly to prevent a spring breaking in competition. Much of firearm "CW" is handed down from competitors, who have factory support and place demands on their firearms in a day that exceed the demands even civilian (weekend) competitors can do in six months. It's like maintaining your Ford Taurus to the same levels that a Formula 1 car is. It's just not rational or needed.
 
Thanks for the replies. The way I see it, the Wolf spring is just a poor design. Although it has the same rating of 20lb as the factory spring it does so by more loops. The problem with that is that it is almost impossible to assemble it on the guide rod and insert it into the slide without it flying all over the room!

I have used Wolf springs in 1911 guns and never had a problem. The reason I replaced the old spring is the age of the gun, the round count and the fact that it started to show some copper fouling and possibly corrosion. I replace my recoil springs in my 1911 at about 3k rounds as well. To me it is cheap insurance.

I will call Sig and get a factory spring next time. Frankly I am not sure I will be able to assemble it again after cleaning. It sure was a pain in the you know what!
 
If I remember correctly, a few coils need to be snipped off the Wolff Sig spring to prevent coil bind and the problems that can crop up with coil bind. I use the Wolff 16 pound spring. Don't know why Sig uses a 20 pound spring. That's getting in 10mm country. But anyway, to me, recoil is smoother with the 16 pound spring. I think one of the older Sig 220s used a 16 pound spring also.
 
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