Sig 220 slide not locking forward

Bunky

Inactive
I rented a Sig 220 this weekend at a local shop with an indoor range. I only bought one box of ammo (Blazer) to shoot, and during the 50 rds the slide failed to lock all the way forward about 5 times. It got stuck approximately 2 mm from lockup. I could push the slide the rest of the way to lockup without too much difficulty. It was my first time firing a .45, but the recoil didn't seem any worse than firing my Glock 23. Different, yes, but not worse. More like a push instead of a pop. So, is this just a poorly maintained Sig, a bad batch of ammo, or was I limp-wristing? BTW, if I was limp-wristing, the Sig would have to be a lot more sensitive to it than my Glock, since I have never had any problems with it. Also, after the first problem, I was concentrating on a firm grip in case that was the problem. The guy at the store said that he had tried the Sig the week before without any problems. Thanks in advance for helping a newbie.
 
This exact thing happened to my Sig 220 once. I believe that it was a combo of a build up of crud inside the barrel and using cheap ammo that was not the most tightly crimped. A good cleaning and better quality ammo solved the problem. Now I use S&B, PMC, or Winchester in the white box for cheap shooting.
 
FWIW (not much?), I have shoot SIGs alot and have never had this problem -- nor heard of anyone having this problem. I've also never heard of anyone limp-wristing a SIG, so I would guess it's a combination of (most likely) a dirty pistol and (less likely) a weak recoil spring.

IME Blazer actually tends to have slightly higher slide velocities (the ammo is full power and the case weighs less than a brass case), so I don't think it's the ammo.

I can't imagine a SIG having this problem -- although obviously yours did. I have run mine in courses of several days with PMC (dirty stuff) and never had so much as a hiccup. You might try posting the same question on the SIGForum (www.sigforum.com) and see if anyone has any clues.
 
Well, since you got Chris O's word here, skip going to the SIGForum! :-)

Dirty and dry seems very plausible for a range rental, I guess.

I have heard, second hand, that the techs at SIG in Exeter (or at least some of them) think that SIGs should be run pretty wet, although most people prefer not to do that (for all kinds of different and logical reasons).

I'd be interested in hearing Chris O's opinion on how/how much/with what SIGs should be lubed?
 
Thanks for the posts. I am glad to hear that the problem isn't real common with Sigs and that it's not my shooting that caused it. I had guessed that that pistol wasn't very clean or oiled but didn't want to strip it down to check since it wasn't mine. BTW, I was about as accurate with it as I am with my Ruger Single Six .22. Other than the double action shots anyway.
 
Thanks for the kind words.

Sig recommends using cleaner/lubricants "designed for firearms use". That said, I prefer Breakfree, although I am trying some TW25B (don't even know who makes it off the top of my head) to see how that works.

I prefer to apply Breakfree to a QTip and apply to the frame rails and the slide rails. A light coat, not dripping, will suffice for duty/carry. Oil heavier if going for an extended range session. The barrel is oiled lightly and wiped off. The top of the locking insert is lightly oiled. The hood of the slide is lightly oiled, as is the underside of the feed ramp.

If lubed in this manner, the pistol will need to re-oiled every three to four weeks even if it never comes out of the holster. I suppose that interval will vary depending weather/climate, etc.

That's my standard lube technique for the user level/field strip. And FWIW, I've seen Sigs run very well while extremely dirty, but without some oil they start to hiccup. Even this will vary depending on the individual pistol.
 
I'm with everyone else on one count. A dry pistol could've done it, but I've had TONS of trouble with Blazer ammo (out of spec lengths and expanding too much). Then again, the maid could've done it.
 
I had the same problem on a used 220 and it was clean and lubricated well. Chris O. suggested to replace the recoil spring on another list. Did that and the trigger bar spring and haven't had a problem since. BTW thanks Chris.
OTIS AKA John Forsyth
 
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