sideplate of my S&W 617

F

fallen4shell

Inactive
Shot my new 617 for the first time this afternoon. NICE! I went through about 200 rounds in no time. It fulfilled my expectations. One more very satisfied customer for this nice little DA .22.

Now that I am done shooting I am sitting here cleaning it. Should I take that side-plate off and clean/oil the internal mechanisms? If so, is there anything special I need to know about before taking it off? I mean, are there gonna be a bunch of tiny springs jumping out at me when I take out the screws that I need to keep track of or is it pretty much just a self contained access hole type deal?

Also, it sounds like there is some kind of little something ratteling around in there a little bit....is this normal? COuld that be the transfer bar or something? This is another reason why I would like to take that sideplate off just to see what the racket is.
 
The best thing to do if you have never disassembled one before is to watch someone do it that has and can do it without doing any damage. The loose thing is the hammer block. No springs to fly out. If you are going to take it off, use the right size screwdriver and DON'T pry the side plate off. Get a disassembly book perhaps for helpful directions.
 
No. Do not remove the sideplate. The rattle is normal. If it is a concern, take it to a competent gunsmith and have them strip it and check the tolerances. If it is shooting, indexing and not spitting lead, enjoy it.
 
Thanks for the replies. I figured that rattle was normal and now that you guys have confirmed my suspicion I am no longer concerned about that at all. But don't those internal parts need to be oiled or cleaned once in a while? I know better than to go in there and start cobbling up stuff, and I am used to working with intricate mechanical parts. I am just surprised that the manual doesn't say anything about maintainance of the internal mechanisms.
 
A suggestion. Remove the grips. You will be able to see into the action, use eye protection and spray brake cleaner into the action while holding the revolver upside down. I suggest doing this outdoors. You will be flooding the action and flushing out all dirt and old lubricant. When you have finished the run-off should be clear. Yo now need to relube the action. Use a light oil like Rem-oil in a spray can. Flood the action with a couple of sprays. Set the revolver on an old towel overnight and allow the excess oil to drain. The next day, wipe the revolver down with a clean cloth. I then suggest using Flitz to clean the outside. When you are through polishing, put the grips back on. Each session of cleaning is good for about 3 months. www.flitz.com
 
Thank you all for the suggestions. I went ahead and took the sideplate off with no problem. Only one piece was capable of falling out(the hammer block) and it was not hard to remember where it went. I was also able to then pull the cylinder all the way off for easier cleaning. While I had the sideplate off I flushed all the mechanisms out with RustyDuck action cleaner that I got from wally world and then coated everything in there lightly with Rem-Oil before I put it all back together. I am satisfied now that my gun is COMPLETELY clean and oiled. Just as I believe you guys wholeheartedly that the gun would last a long time without me ever taking that sideplate off I am equally confident that it will last even LONGER if I regularly clean and oil my internal mechanisms.

I know from being an auto mechanic that a modern automobile will last a long time with an oil change only once every year, but it will last MUCH MUCH longer if you change the oil every three months. Small moving metal parts LOVE to be cleaned and oiled, whether in guns or cars or whatever.

Again, thank you all for your tips....especially Broom Rider for confirmation that there were no springs suspended by that sideplate (that was my main concern) and to Sir William for the brake cleaner (which is all this "action cleaner" really is) and Rem Oil suggestion, even though I decided against your advice to take the sideplate off before I sprayed it.
 
By the way, after I took the sideplate off, removed the loose hammer block and set it aside I could still hear a small rattle noise when I shook the remaining hull of the revolver. I looked and looked as I shook but could not see anything moving that could be making the noise...grrrr. The gun shoots wonderfully though with no problem so I am not going to worry too much about it right now. I just wish for my own peace of mind that I KNEW what it was...ya know?
 
The principal reason for not removing the sideplate is that you can spring the frame in doing so. IOWs, Plymouth Breeze engines develop a head leak. The problem is simple. They require a heavy torque on the wrench to tightn them together. S&W sideplates are similar in that they are pretty tightly fit before the screws are tightened. If you remove the sideplate every cleaning, you will ruin your revolver over time. I simply suggest not doing it for that reason. I used an automotive analogy only for the purpose of illustration. The rattle is no big deal. They do that.
 
lol...thanks for the auto analogy. Unfortunately I'm afraid I still don't fully comprehend what you are saying. How does removing the side plate (and feel free to get as technical as you want) ruin the frame of the revolver? While I admit that it does fit pretty snug on there, I don't see that it HOLDS anything together as you seem to be suggesting (or perhaps that is just my misunderstanding of what you are suggesting). Do the sideplate screws require a specific torque on re-installation? There is not any kind of gasket (comparable to the head-gasket on your Plymouth Breeze) that I can see which would need precise tightening sequences to "seal" properly....nor do I see how there could be any lateral tension from the front to the back of the gun put on that area of the frame that the sideplate would need to support.
 
Typically when I clean and re-lubricate a S&W revolver, my procedure is as follows;

Oil:
Invert gun - add 1 drop of oil in the groove behind the trigger where the rebound slide arm rests. Squeeze trigger & hold. Add 1 drop forward of trigger and release. Wipe.

Gun upright - Cock hammer. Add 1 drop of oil midway down hammer. If firing pin is frame mounted, add 1 drop & wipe. Lower hammer.
Add 1 drop of oil to each: Cylinder bolt(stop) in bottom of cylinder opening, Cylinder release pin (below firing pin hole) on recoil face. On end of extractor rod where it mates the underlug pin. The underlug pin, the outside of the extractor rod where it passes through the crane/yoke. On the front of the cylinder where it rotates on the crane/yoke.

After adding all this oil, work the action by hand about 10 or so times without dry-firing. Wipe down excess. Using snapcaps, dry fire about 12 times, wipe off excess. For blued guns, a clean patch with 2-4 drops of oil is used to wipe down all (clean) exposed surfaces. If the patch shows dirty, discontinue that patch (clean that area again!) and start a new patch. Wipe exterior down with clean, soft cloth.

Store gun in upright position, if possible, check next day and wipe off any excess that creeps out through the trigger guard (should be minimal).

Three best tools for this are:
1. A syringe-like tool with either a square cut needle or plastic tube to reach into tight spots.
2. An old M1-Carbine oiler (available at gun shows) or similar.
3. A sewing needle (not a pin) with the sharp end cut off and dipped in vinyl coating or covered with shrink tubing or such.

For 2 & 3 dip into your oil and let the drop run down off the tip. With the sewing needle, you're using the "eye" to hold a little extra oil in place.
 
fallen4shell Quote – “I went ahead and took the sideplate off with no problem. Only one piece was capable of falling out(the hammer block) and it was not hard to remember where it went. I was also able to then pull the cylinder all the way off for easier cleaning.”

I usually don’t take the sideplate off when I clean my Smith’s, but I do remove the screw below the cylinder to be able to remove the cylinder for cleaning. I’ve found that if you don’t remove the cylinder and try to clean while still in the gun the movement can wear the crane.
 
You won't spring the frame on an S&W if you remove the side plate.

If you pry it off (NEVER EVER pry the sideplate off), you can spring the sideplate.

A high-quality grease is best for the internals of your S&W revolvers.
 
Mike~
Thanks for the re-assurance about the sideplate not "springing the frame." That is comforting. I certainly don't want to do anything to screw up my new baby. The way you said it, though, makes it sound like there are SOME revolvers that this CAN happen on....if so what are the circumstances and what exactly is meant by "springing" the frame?
For that matter what does "springing" the sideplate mean? I can see where one could bend, gouge, chip, warp, and in other ways deform the sideplate by excessive prying, but the term "springing" just doesn't ring a bell in my vocabulary. Perhaps you mean one or all of the same things I just mentioned and it is just the term that I am not familiar with...if so please let me know. If not, please explain what "springing" actually refers to. Thanks
BTW...just to set everyone's mind at ease. I just paid over $500 for this gun....I am certainly not going to go and "PRY" my sideplate off....gentle lifting only. =o) IF it does not come easily I won't force it. It fits just a little snug, and you have to watch the angle as there is a tab at the top that goes under the frame, but I had no problem getting it off with no damage.
 
Springing = bending or warping.

To remove your sideplate safely.

1. Ensure gun is unloaded.

2. Remove grips and sideplate screws.

3. Hold gun in right hand, side plate up, so that your thumb is over the sideplate. That's important, as that will keep it from flying off and hitting the ground.

4. Take a wooden hammer handle or rubber mallet and sharply strike across the flats of the grip frame. Several hits may be necessary, but the sideplate will pop loose quickly.
 
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