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Should you lubricate a 22LR BCG?
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I don't.
A centerfire AR bolt has a number of surfaces that scrape themselves clean. Keep it really well oiled and the crud can stay soft enough that clean up is easier.
Leaving a bunch of oil on the CMMG Rimfire BCG makes it a crud magnet. Rimfire crud is more copious and coarse and will combine with your oil to make a sandy sludge fairly quickly.
A clean CMMG rimfire BCG will more easily shed the crud that gets blown all over it.
A centerfire AR bolt has a number of surfaces that scrape themselves clean. Keep it really well oiled and the crud can stay soft enough that clean up is easier.
Leaving a bunch of oil on the CMMG Rimfire BCG makes it a crud magnet. Rimfire crud is more copious and coarse and will combine with your oil to make a sandy sludge fairly quickly.
A clean CMMG rimfire BCG will more easily shed the crud that gets blown all over it.
FrankenMauser
New member
I usually wipe mine clean, chip the heavy deposits off the bolt face and extractors, and throw it back in.
Once in a while, I might give it a very light coat of oil, and then still wipe it with a rag to make it a very, very light coat of oil.
Once in a while, I might give it a very light coat of oil, and then still wipe it with a rag to make it a very, very light coat of oil.
I would oil and wipe it thin. Any rimfire is barely operating. It needs the lubricity and corrosion protection without any viscosity to push through. It is actually better to have some loss of coverage than grease build up or excess oil. I think this is why rimfire manuals often don’t call for lube.
georgehwbush
New member
ok i'll get called an idot again for this; i have had a few blowback 22lr simi's that required a pretty slick serface to function, i learned to remove the bolt, clean everything well and spray the bolt "black" with spray on dry graphite.
it may not look the best but it does work the best for me. it doesn't "collect grit" from the powder and other sources like oil or grease does, and it keeps the weapon functioning much longer.
now let me have it, why is that a bad idea...
it may not look the best but it does work the best for me. it doesn't "collect grit" from the powder and other sources like oil or grease does, and it keeps the weapon functioning much longer.
now let me have it, why is that a bad idea...
It isn't stupid if it works. Dry Graphite may be a good lubricant.
The issue would be whether the stainless bolt and frame benefit from that. My guess would be that it does no harm.
My experience is that the limiting conditions are:
1. modest deterioration in accuracy after a couple hundred rounds, reversable with a patch pulled through the barrel, and
2. greater degradation caused by a carbon ring at about 800 rounds.
Neither of these are influenced by bolt lubrication.
I've experimented with a generous dose of oil all over the bolt and rails hoping that after 300 or 400 rounds in a session I'd find the crud suspended in oil that would all wipe off easily. I found the surfaces that don't touch anything else to have remained oily, but everything else scraped dry. Lubed or not, I do get some hard carbon on the rails near the collar, but never enough to influence function.
The issue would be whether the stainless bolt and frame benefit from that. My guess would be that it does no harm.
My experience is that the limiting conditions are:
1. modest deterioration in accuracy after a couple hundred rounds, reversable with a patch pulled through the barrel, and
2. greater degradation caused by a carbon ring at about 800 rounds.
Neither of these are influenced by bolt lubrication.
I've experimented with a generous dose of oil all over the bolt and rails hoping that after 300 or 400 rounds in a session I'd find the crud suspended in oil that would all wipe off easily. I found the surfaces that don't touch anything else to have remained oily, but everything else scraped dry. Lubed or not, I do get some hard carbon on the rails near the collar, but never enough to influence function.
FrankenMauser
New member
Froglube is coconut oil.
It will go rancid, get sticky, and turn nasty colors.
Use a synthetic gun oil.
It will go rancid, get sticky, and turn nasty colors.
Use a synthetic gun oil.
Funny, been using it for several years now, never had a problem. Still smells minty fresh.Froglube is coconut oil.
It will go rancid, get sticky, and turn nasty colors.
Use a synthetic gun oil.
Respectfully,
Sadly , Frog Lube has a lot of "sticky" stories on the internet.
We all know lubes can work great for some people, and then work like poop for others.
The only way to know if your firearm likes a lube is to try it. ( Or not )
I remember when FireClean lube came out.. it really did wipe clean easier then anything else I had tried... But, if I lubed up my AR with it, and let them sit in the safe for 2 weeks, every AR had a "stuck" BCG, as in I had to REALLY yank on the charging handle to break the BCG free.
As for the OP's question, Yes I lube my 22LR BCG's.. cleaning rifles is just part of the "fun"
FWIW, I currently , really like the ALG Go Juice.
Sadly , Frog Lube has a lot of "sticky" stories on the internet.
We all know lubes can work great for some people, and then work like poop for others.
The only way to know if your firearm likes a lube is to try it. ( Or not )
I remember when FireClean lube came out.. it really did wipe clean easier then anything else I had tried... But, if I lubed up my AR with it, and let them sit in the safe for 2 weeks, every AR had a "stuck" BCG, as in I had to REALLY yank on the charging handle to break the BCG free.
As for the OP's question, Yes I lube my 22LR BCG's.. cleaning rifles is just part of the "fun"
FWIW, I currently , really like the ALG Go Juice.