Should I trade my Sig for a HK ?

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sean2001

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I have a Sig P220 with a nickel slide almost new, only 50 rounds put thru it. But, I can't keep the top of the barrel from rusting. So I went to the local gun shop and told the man working there my problems and he said he would trade me my Sig for a NIB HK USP .45, should I take the trade ? How reliable is the HK ? Will it rust ? Any advice would be helpfull
 
If it were me it would be a done deal! Take the trade with a smile or get a Glock and rust worry not!
Hey where are the smileys!
 
**IMO**, I'd run for that deal. The HK USP's in full size or "compact" are excellent weapons, highly reliable and will eat any ammo you feed them.

I have shot both HK's and Sigs before I bought - I now own 2 HK USP's.

I have seen 1 or 2 threads about possible rust in HK barrels but (someone correct me if I'm wrong) I belive it was determined that it was indeed NOT rust. I have about 2000 rounds through one of my USP's and the barrel, and all else, still looks brand new.

If you are not happy with the Sig and the HK feels like a good fit in your hand, make the deal.

IMO, you just can't go wrong with a USP.

CMOS


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Join GOA, NRA, LEAA and vote.
 
Honestly, I do not understand this "rust"
problem". Never had it, even when I shoot
milsurp ammo which is usually called "corrosive" and will indeed rust the barrel if no cleaning is done for a few days after
firing the gun. I think you should just clean
your gun after you shoot it. Use Windex,
then Hoppes #9, then little oil...

In regard to "kind" man in a gunshop offering
you a "great" deal - you got to remember the
"no free cheese" principle. Man just wants your SIG in preference to his HK or he devoted his all business life to charity.
You draw your own conclusions...
 
Sean:

Please, the deal sounds to good to be true for him to trade a NEW HK for a used Sig. Used is used. Call Sig and tell them you maintain the weapon judiciously and are not satisfied with the rust. I don't want to sound like a wise guy but are you sure it's rust? In any event, tell them you bought the pistol new and feel they should help you with this. I have a feeling if you couch it in the reight manner, you will be pleased when all is said and done. I can tell you now that the Sig is one of the most accurate stock .45's you will ever own. It sounds to me as if the Gun Dealer knows something he's not telling you. Good luck.

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"When guns are outlawed;I will be an outlaw."


[This message has been edited by Will Beararms (edited November 17, 1999).]
 
The guy who is willing to trade is the one who sold me the Sig. He has used Sig P220's for as high as $699. He is asking $559 for new HK's. I also have done a lot of deals with him, buying and trading. I think I bought about 6 hand guns off him in the last two years. It's not the barrel itself that is rusting but the part of it exposed thru the top of the slide. I took some steel wool to it and it went away, but then came back 4 days later.

[This message has been edited by sean2001 (edited November 17, 1999).]
 
Sean my friend, STOP, STOP, STOP
1ST-Don't touch that Sig with ANY steel wool;
you will create more problems than you are capable of handling !!! If I understood you
correctly, you have the 220 with the satin
nickel slide, correct? Use a non abrasive
compound to lightly clean the area of the
suspected rust; however I DO NOT believe
it to be rust, as we know it. Sig's that
are manufactured in Germany come with a
coated substance to protect them from the
environment. I believe, that you did not
properly remove it !!! Try my method using
non abrasive's; then if you still have any
problems may I refer you to 4V50 Gary on
this forum; as he is a Sig certified armorer.
Best wishes, and most of all; DON'T make
the trade.

------------------
Ala Dan
 
Greetings Sean, I forgot to mention that
senior member Chris Orndorff is a Sig
certified armorer, as well. Sorry, for
the oversight Chris !!!

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Ala Dan
 
I think both guns are great. But if i were you i wouldnt trade it off so quickly. The man at the gun shop knows he can make more money on the sig. therefore the sig is worth more. Apparently you bought the sig because you like it. Why not ask him to trade you for a non-nickel sig? If the rust is driving you crazy, get a sig that wont rust. You are the first person ive heard of having a problem with rusting. Maybe you should have a smith or armour look at it for you. You paid good money for a superb gun. If i were you I wouldnt go trading it off so quickly.

Just my 2 cent worth.

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TIM : )
 
I would keep the Sig.
I traded the P220 for a USP. Hindsight: I wish I still had that Sig. The USP was fun... But the damn things are becoming as pedestrian as Glocks! Everyone has one!

Well - that is no valid reason. Test the both out against each other. Which shoots better for you.
The one that wins is the one you keep.

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"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." - Sigmund Freud
RAGE AGAINST THE MACHINE
 
George,
H&Ks pedestrian?
Oh George, you have fallen mightily far from the H&K wagon!
My suggestion is keep the Sig and buy the USP.
Its that simple.
Why does everyone limit themselves to one or two pieces?
Once you buy them, they don't lose value, (except maybe in California) its nice to trade off for awhile, and your tastes change from time to time.
I like both of mine.
 
George! WHOA! "as pedestrian as Glocks" I think I've been wounded.
But rust and sheet metal stampings do not impress me.
To each his own level of happiness.
 
The choice of ones pistol is a very personal issue, and while I do not personally care for the HK, it is a fine and quality piece. YOUR preference is YOUR preference.

I think what you've described is rust (or something) on top/exterior of the chamber. After cleaning this, do you lubricate it? This part rides under the slide during recoil, and that part of the slide (hood) that rides over the barrel/chamber needs to be lubricated with a quality oil.

I've also not seen rust on this area of a Sig before, although I have seen rust on grip screws and slide exteriors.

I'd personally keep the Sig and try to correct your "problem" by keeping it lubricated. Good luck.
 
The top of the barrel rusts? Sean please clarify. Is it the actual top of the barrel under the slide or is it the top of the barrel exposed by the ejection port?
The reason I ask is that I had the same problem with my SIG 226. The polished section of the barrel exposed by the E port would rust slightly due to handling. I used a little Flitz on it and have not had a problem since. Give that a try.
 
Sean,

I've never seen rust on the area you're describing, although being a police armorer I have certainly seen my share of rust. Make sure you oil the hood of the slide (that part of the slide immediately forward of the chamber) with a quality lubricant. This is the part of the slide that, during recoil, moves over the chamber of the barrel.

Sorry for this 2nd post; I didn't think my first one went through.

[This message has been edited by Chris Orndorff (edited November 18, 1999).]
 
It is the part that shows thru the ejection port. I oiled it and never shot or even racked the slide and there is still slight rust.
 
Well, jeez man... Put more than 50 rounds through it before you swap it out... didn't we all learn from Frank's post that rust is part of the blueing process? Give it a chance...
And like others, I would be careful trading that gunsmith... He obviously doesn't think there is a problem with it if he is offering to take it... He MUST know what to do about it to fix it... Who knows what's wrong with the gun he wants to trade... He sounds like a slimeball to me...
Final Opinion: DON'T DO IT
Unless of course you would prefer the other gun, I guess

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"...you're thinkin was that 5 shots or was it 6? Well, you've gotta ask yourself one question: Do you feel lucky??? ...Well, do ya PUNK!?!?
 
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