Reloading
My opinions:
The best reloader to start out with = the MEC 9000G. This is a progressive reloader and is the best value out there. I would recommend installing a universal charge bar. Do not rely on the manufacturers charts for powder bushings, buy a good scale and use it!
Cost for box of reloads $2.10 to $2.50 per box, if you buy components in bulk quantities and don't pay for the hulls.
Mis loads are always possible, more often you will have squibb loads. Usually an overload of powder (double charge) will cause a bulged case or the shell will not crimp, but not always. Learn to check your loads and discard any that look different. Pay attention while reloading, this is no place for Attention Deficit Disorder.
Get a reloading manual, in fact , get at least two reloading manuals. Follow the recipes. Yes you can use components from different manufacturers but use only the components recommended by the reloading manuals. Be especially mindful of the primers, they are not all the same, do not substitute one manufacturers primers for another.
The above is from my experience having started reloading in 1995. Have never had an overload but have had a few light loads. One tip, check the completed hulls by holding up to a light, you will soon learn what a good reload looks like and if the wad is seated properly.
A good powder scale is an absolute necessity, do not reload without one.
As I said above, do not rely on the powder charges from the manufacturers charts. Always weigh the powder charges from the first few shells and every 100 shells or so.
Follow the recipes in the reloading manuals, be wary of recipes given to you by fellow shooters.
Use only quality hulls to reload. this means remington STS/NItro27, Winchester AA, Federal top gun. Throw away the promo hulls and oddball foreigh hulls.
MY $.02 as usual
Geoff Ross
