should I reload for my .357
- Thread starter Bass Man
- Start date
lee n. field
New member
You can reload for $3-$4 per box of 50, depending on what bullets you use. The minimum you would spend getting set up to reload is ~$50 (Lee Hand Press Kit w/ dies), though you should spend more.
Should you? Your call, but I've bought almost no .38 or .357 ammo for years -- it's all reloaded.
Should you? Your call, but I've bought almost no .38 or .357 ammo for years -- it's all reloaded.
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For self defence... NO!
For plinking? It depends on how many rounds you tend to burn up. Reloading for one round is not cost effective for just plinking. If you plan on getting other firearms later and tend to burn up 1000 rounds a weekend maybe. Want cheap ammo? just pick up some 38 special for plinking.
The only stuff I reload is anymore is .50 BMG , at $5.00 a round for quality stuff that I can produce at $1.75 a round it cost effective when I run 20-30 rounds a week.
For plinking? It depends on how many rounds you tend to burn up. Reloading for one round is not cost effective for just plinking. If you plan on getting other firearms later and tend to burn up 1000 rounds a weekend maybe. Want cheap ammo? just pick up some 38 special for plinking.
The only stuff I reload is anymore is .50 BMG , at $5.00 a round for quality stuff that I can produce at $1.75 a round it cost effective when I run 20-30 rounds a week.
If I buy the equipment it will probably be the RCBS rock chucker kit. It is $229 and the gun store where I bought my gun, plus I would have to buy a tumbler. Is the $100 kit okay or should I get the Rock Chucker. A co-worker said the cheaper press will wear out fast. I want to do it I just wanted a cost comparison. When I looked at it 1000 bullets and 1000 primers was close to $100. Should I use just lead bullets instead of jacketed. I can buy Fiocchi fmj for $150 a case of 1000. I think I will buy a few boxes and then a case and save them to reload. I will mostly shoot .38 specials and that is what is $150/1000.
Chuck Jennings
New member
Miwall ammo is a tremendous value. I would shoot with that for a while, save the brass, and then keep a look out for a deal on relaoding equipment.
You don't need a $229 press to reload for 1 caliber.
I just bought a Taurus .357 - I have the lee anniversary press ($60) and I bought the .357 speed die from Midway USA for $14 !! $50 tumbler from Cabelas - works great. The Lee press is a very simple press, 1 die to load the rounds. Not a progressive but if you're just getting started with reloading I wouldn't recommend an expensive rig just yet.
I just bought a Taurus .357 - I have the lee anniversary press ($60) and I bought the .357 speed die from Midway USA for $14 !! $50 tumbler from Cabelas - works great. The Lee press is a very simple press, 1 die to load the rounds. Not a progressive but if you're just getting started with reloading I wouldn't recommend an expensive rig just yet.
FWIW you can buy Winchester 38 spl @ wallmart for $14 and change per 100. IF you want to get started at a reasonable cost, go to the Lee relaoding website and order a lee 1000 factory refurbished press in 38/357. Have them throw in a case collator and used lee scale for safety. The whole cost will be less than $100 delivered ( set up and ready to go to work) . Mine have made thousand of rounds and paid forthemselves 10 times over.
p.s You don't need a tumbler to reload. I reloaded for years before i got one.
p.s You don't need a tumbler to reload. I reloaded for years before i got one.
With the Rock Chucker should you decide to branch out in the future you won't need another single stage press no matter what caliber you go to.
It is a more expensive press, but it's the best single stage press on the market. There are cheaper RCBS presses and kits on the market. I started with the Special-5 kit many years ago. It was well under $200 back then. The Partner is the cheapest RCBS press on the market I think. To save even more you can buy used as RCBS equipment is warranted for life.
It is a more expensive press, but it's the best single stage press on the market. There are cheaper RCBS presses and kits on the market. I started with the Special-5 kit many years ago. It was well under $200 back then. The Partner is the cheapest RCBS press on the market I think. To save even more you can buy used as RCBS equipment is warranted for life.
Reloading itself can get to be a way to enjoy shooting without the trip to the range. Should you reload for your .357? You bet! Start with some basic equipment like that rock chucker press. If you find you like producing your own ammo you can expand your equipment. If it's not fun for you there is always a market for used stuff so the experiment doesn't have to be TOO expensive.
There are arguments pro and con but I can tell you one solid fact in my case: I would not be nearly as "good a shot" if I hadn't gotten into reloading at the very beginning. I would have never fired nearly as many rounds of 9mm, 357, 41, 44 and both .45's unless I was loading them myself. Really serious gun people who don't have tremendous amounts of spare money lying around reload! (I would still reload for my favorites even if I was a millionaire. There is more to it than just the economics.)
Gregg
Gregg
Guy B. Meredith
New member
Reloading saves big time--and the ammo shoots exactly as you want rather than chosing from a variety of "almost right" commercial stuff. In the last 25,000 rounds I've only purchased commercial ammo for the high powered self defense thingees and when forced to do so at ranges.
Check the mail order and web sites for good prices. I've done well with Lock, Stock and Barrel (www.lockstock.com).
Check the mail order and web sites for good prices. I've done well with Lock, Stock and Barrel (www.lockstock.com).
If you are not going to shoot much, the Rockchucker is an excellent press. I have had one for probably35 years. The only problem is that it is slow if you shoot a lot. For about 4 years I was shooting at least 1000 rounds of pistol ammo per month. I could not keep up with the single stage press.
But if you are going to shoot a couple hundred rounds per month it will be OK. It has the capability for rifles also if you desire.
Jerry
But if you are going to shoot a couple hundred rounds per month it will be OK. It has the capability for rifles also if you desire.
Jerry
Hmmm... All of the really serious gun people I know DON'T have spare money lying around. Something about always buying that next gun!
(I know collectors and afficionados who just happen to use so little ammo factory doesn't hurt them much.)Reloading would be worth it if you don't like watching TV much in your free time and would rather be shooting at every free moment but can't. If this describes you, jump on into reloading. I personally don't watch much TV and spend entirely too much time at the reloading bench. Without reloading I may never have become acquianted with .44 Magnums, .45 ACPs, the .260 Remington, etc. It goes beyond saving money for many. You end up spending about 1.5-3 times as much money, but shooting 3-8 times more often!
Start on the single stage and see where your needs take you. If you stay with it the single stage will come in handy for many odd operations in the future.
I would definately reload. But, I would stay far away from Lee equipment. I've had nothing but headaches with them, and very, very low quality ammo.
You can start with the Rockchucker. It's how I got started. I moved on to Lee, and was plagued with poor quality reloads. I moved on to Dillon and have never had a bad round come off of either of my presses. If you do your part, they do theirs.
I reload for many calibers, even the ones you can buy cheaply. 9mm, .40, .45, .38/.357, .44mag, .30 Carbine, .223 and .30-06.
People think I'm wasting my time reloading for the 9mm. But, I get the brass for free at the range, so the only cost I have is primers and powder. I trade buckets of wheelweights I get for free from tire shops to a commercial caster I know who gives me finished product for it. So, my lead is free, too! For less than $2/box, I'll reload the 9mm!
You can start with the Rockchucker. It's how I got started. I moved on to Lee, and was plagued with poor quality reloads. I moved on to Dillon and have never had a bad round come off of either of my presses. If you do your part, they do theirs.
I reload for many calibers, even the ones you can buy cheaply. 9mm, .40, .45, .38/.357, .44mag, .30 Carbine, .223 and .30-06.
People think I'm wasting my time reloading for the 9mm. But, I get the brass for free at the range, so the only cost I have is primers and powder. I trade buckets of wheelweights I get for free from tire shops to a commercial caster I know who gives me finished product for it. So, my lead is free, too! For less than $2/box, I'll reload the 9mm!
Reloading is not for everyone. If you plan on making barn burners and like your hair blown back from expanding gases, then don't do it. If you can not be your own QC then don't do it. If you don't like paying attention to small details then don't do it. Reloading is not rocket science but requires some common since as you can rapidly disassemble a pistol, even a good one like the you have. Some people find reloading a hobby all in it's self and shoot so they can reload some more. Funny people.
Now that I'm off the soap box let me throw in my $.02. There has been good advise given so far. I started out with a RCBS kit many years ago and haven't worn it out yet. 357 mag was the first pistol cartridge I reloaded for and is still one of my favorites although I do reload more 45 ACP and .40 short and weak now. I don't feel the need to move on to a progressive as I really reload more rifle, or it seems that way. I keep pistol brass in various stages of disrepair and can crank out a couple of hundred rounds fairly quickly. Once you start reloading it does seem like the list of cartridges you load for does increase over a period of time. Last year I added 3 more, 300 H&H, 30-30 and 223 which brings my total to 10.
The way to keep costs down is to buy bullets in bulk. I have found the 140 gr. HP bullet shoots better for me out of my 686.
Buy a reloading manual or maybe even check one out of the library and read the how too section. RCBS kits normally come with a manual and they have a great how too section, however having more than one flavor of manual is not a bad idea. I have data from 5 different ones myself just for 357.
A tumbler is not a bad idea as clean brass will not harm your dies. Also changing powder weights/bullets every box of 50 will make you change your sight settings so the goal is to find a load you like and then stay with it.
357 dies will also load 38 SPL and this is a good way to shoot more without wearing out your pistol. I found a 140 HP in a 38 Spl case with 5.0 grains of Unique with Fed primer makes for a deadly accurate target load that will impress your friends in my 686. I got an offer on that 686 last time I used that load and turned them down. Your mileage may vary.
Now that I'm off the soap box let me throw in my $.02. There has been good advise given so far. I started out with a RCBS kit many years ago and haven't worn it out yet. 357 mag was the first pistol cartridge I reloaded for and is still one of my favorites although I do reload more 45 ACP and .40 short and weak now. I don't feel the need to move on to a progressive as I really reload more rifle, or it seems that way. I keep pistol brass in various stages of disrepair and can crank out a couple of hundred rounds fairly quickly. Once you start reloading it does seem like the list of cartridges you load for does increase over a period of time. Last year I added 3 more, 300 H&H, 30-30 and 223 which brings my total to 10.
The way to keep costs down is to buy bullets in bulk. I have found the 140 gr. HP bullet shoots better for me out of my 686.
Buy a reloading manual or maybe even check one out of the library and read the how too section. RCBS kits normally come with a manual and they have a great how too section, however having more than one flavor of manual is not a bad idea. I have data from 5 different ones myself just for 357.
A tumbler is not a bad idea as clean brass will not harm your dies. Also changing powder weights/bullets every box of 50 will make you change your sight settings so the goal is to find a load you like and then stay with it.
357 dies will also load 38 SPL and this is a good way to shoot more without wearing out your pistol. I found a 140 HP in a 38 Spl case with 5.0 grains of Unique with Fed primer makes for a deadly accurate target load that will impress your friends in my 686. I got an offer on that 686 last time I used that load and turned them down. Your mileage may vary.
Bullets
Should I use a lead bullet or a jacketed? The lead is a lot cheaper, especially for target shooting, but is it as acurate.
Puls I have to convince my wife I NEED it. This last weekend I got 3 guns. I bought my .357 (don't get my purchase permit til fri.) and on Saturday I got a .17 hmr and went $111 over the gift cards I had and on Sunday I got my Grandpas Mossberg 20 ga. bolt action, unfired.
Should I use a lead bullet or a jacketed? The lead is a lot cheaper, especially for target shooting, but is it as acurate.
Puls I have to convince my wife I NEED it. This last weekend I got 3 guns. I bought my .357 (don't get my purchase permit til fri.) and on Saturday I got a .17 hmr and went $111 over the gift cards I had and on Sunday I got my Grandpas Mossberg 20 ga. bolt action, unfired.
Personally, I shoot cast bullet exclusively, but that's not for everyone. I know some people who only shoot jacketed.
If you go with lead, a little more attention to detail is required so you don't end up with leading in the bore. Slugging your bore is a good idea, then go .001" oversize to practically eliminate leading, even with magnum loads. Another thing is avoid swaged lead bullets and go with cast. Swaged lead is soft and causes leading.
The recommendation about several reloading manuals is an excellent one. I use the Lee manual (the only Lee product I'll use!), Speer and RCBS. If you go with cast bullets, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is an invaluable source of info.
The case tumbler is also a necessity. Some people don't clean their brass this much, but I clean mine before every reload.
Read a lot, talk to people you know who reload, and pay attention to detail. To TV or anything like that when reloading. Concentrate on what you are doing.
And, although some people do, there's no need to reload to max all the time. You'll be able to shoot more, and become more proficient, by shooting lower or mid power loads. Although I do shoot max sometimes, I usually load .38's for my .357's and load down my .44mags. Still over .44spl specs, but not magnum loads.
If you go with lead, a little more attention to detail is required so you don't end up with leading in the bore. Slugging your bore is a good idea, then go .001" oversize to practically eliminate leading, even with magnum loads. Another thing is avoid swaged lead bullets and go with cast. Swaged lead is soft and causes leading.
The recommendation about several reloading manuals is an excellent one. I use the Lee manual (the only Lee product I'll use!), Speer and RCBS. If you go with cast bullets, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is an invaluable source of info.
The case tumbler is also a necessity. Some people don't clean their brass this much, but I clean mine before every reload.
Read a lot, talk to people you know who reload, and pay attention to detail. To TV or anything like that when reloading. Concentrate on what you are doing.
And, although some people do, there's no need to reload to max all the time. You'll be able to shoot more, and become more proficient, by shooting lower or mid power loads. Although I do shoot max sometimes, I usually load .38's for my .357's and load down my .44mags. Still over .44spl specs, but not magnum loads.
Not to start a fight but I wanted to let "both sides" be expressed!
I've got a Lee Turret Press. (The older three hole variety.) I use it manually. (In other words it isn't set up as a progressive press.) It has saved me a lot of time over the years screwing dies in and out. I just get a new turret every time I get a new caliber and then the dies live in that turret. I used Lee carbide pistol dies in a variety of calibers. I mainly use Redding rifle dies but I have a few that are Lee. I use the Lee Auto-Prime and the Lee powder measure. I've started to use the newer four die sets in calibers like .45 ACP and like them a lot. I've got a Dillon press in the garage but it isn't usually worth the effort to get it going. If I just want 50 .357's or something I'll just use the Lee. And all my rifle rounds are loaded on the Lee.
I don't know why some people some to have problems with Lee products. In my experience, they provide very good products and very nice prices. Sometimes I decide to splurge and "upgrade" something to a competing product that costs two or three times a month but generally my Lee stuff works without any problems at all. I've certainly never produced any "horrible ammo" with it. Well, not unless it was my fault!
Gregg
I've got a Lee Turret Press. (The older three hole variety.) I use it manually. (In other words it isn't set up as a progressive press.) It has saved me a lot of time over the years screwing dies in and out. I just get a new turret every time I get a new caliber and then the dies live in that turret. I used Lee carbide pistol dies in a variety of calibers. I mainly use Redding rifle dies but I have a few that are Lee. I use the Lee Auto-Prime and the Lee powder measure. I've started to use the newer four die sets in calibers like .45 ACP and like them a lot. I've got a Dillon press in the garage but it isn't usually worth the effort to get it going. If I just want 50 .357's or something I'll just use the Lee. And all my rifle rounds are loaded on the Lee.
I don't know why some people some to have problems with Lee products. In my experience, they provide very good products and very nice prices. Sometimes I decide to splurge and "upgrade" something to a competing product that costs two or three times a month but generally my Lee stuff works without any problems at all. I've certainly never produced any "horrible ammo" with it. Well, not unless it was my fault!
Gregg
Guy B. Meredith
New member
As well as lead and jacketed bullets there is the option of plated bullets. These are less expensive than jacketed (see West Coast Bullets), less dirty than softer lead. I hate clean up and use the cleanest powder consistent with good metering and cost and West Coast Bullets.