Should I open it?

[Jim PHL]

I posted about my new (to me) model 65. It is used and according to the help I've gotten here, probably made in mid-80's. Question: should I EVER open any revolver sideplate? I mean, is there a point when you need to get in there and clean it out or should you not open up the sideplate unless you have reason to? On this one, the sideplate screws are a little buggered so at some point someone opened it. The sideplate fits so nice and tight, though, that I'm thinking when I get the new screws, I should just replace them without taking the plate off.

Do you routinely take the sideplate off for cleaning and maintenence. If so, what exactly should be done while I'm "in there"?

 

[seb5]

I don't take them off regularly but it's not a big deal. I like to see the parts occasionally and clean any accumulated crud out and relube. Just make sure you have the proper screw driver.

 

[Sir William]

NO! If all is well, leave it alone. Do you check your cylinders in your vehicle to make sure they are all there? The analogy is that there are some things you don't mess with. When there is a problem, it needs to go to a knowledgable repair gunsmith. If you want to, when you replace the screws, you can spray out the screwholes with an aerosol brake parts cleaner. Use eye protection and do it outside.

 

[texmex]

Taking the sideplate off will not do any harm if it is done correctly. Never pry on the sideplate. If it gets warped in the slightest, it will never again fit with the precision that you have observed. Find a gunsmith or someone in your area that knows the correct way to remove a sideplate and let them show you how to do it or walk you through it. Basically, you remove the grips (without prying on them either) and the sideplate screws, then gently tap on the grip frame with a rubber or plastic mallet on the same side as the sideplate. Inertia will loosen the sideplate (it tries to stay still while you are knocking the frame away from it).

The new rubber grips are a different matter but wooden, ivory or stag grips should be removed by loosening the grip screw and then pushing it in so it pushes the other grip away from the frame. With one grip off, you can push the other grip off through the grip frame. Just try to make the grip come straight away from the frame, don't get the bottom or top loose and then lever or twist the grip off.

It is just a lot easier to watch someone remove the grips and sideplate and learn that way than it is to learn from someone trying to tell you how. Just make sure the person you are learning from really knows what he is doing. Some people will never admit to not knowing something and they will just assume they can figure it out and damage your gun in the process.

 

[Mike Irwin]

Yes.

You will occasionally need to take the side plate off if for no other reason than to hose out the internals with Gun Scrubber and to relubricate it.

Fully stripping an S&W once you have the side plate off isn't difficult, either, and it really helps with an older one that may not have been cleaned for decades.

 

[BillCA]

My basic rule of thumb is -- if someone is asking this question, they're not really qualified to remove the sideplate. No offense, but I've seen too many buggered up screws, scratched frames & sideplates in my time.

If you want to learn the internals, pick up The S&W Revolver - A shop manual By Jerry Kuhnhausen (VIP Press) before you begin. Worth three times it's price.

You can replace the screws yourself. If you want to properly work on a firearm -- be it replacing screws, mounting a scope or a complete refitting -- I suggest looking for a quality hollowground screwdriver set such as the Chapman kit. Then use the proper size driver bit for each screw.

Sir William has a good point. Clean the screw holes (sounds dirty doesn't it?) with a little spray degreaser. Do the same to the screws. Then, before assembly, put a drop of oil on thumb & finger, smear it around, dab off excess, then roll the screw between oily fingers to protect it without gobbing oil on it. Run screw down to contact point and wait about 2 minutes for any excess oil to seep up. Then tighten with 2 fingers about 1/8th turn. The tiny, thin film will ease removal later. Check screws after firing 10-20 rounds for tightness.

To remove old oil & crud from a wheelgun, use a commercial spray cleaner/degreaser. Use outdoors only with plenty of ventilation. See my article elsewhere on "How to clean a revolver" for lubrication.

It may be well worth about $15 or so to have a gunsmith show you how to properly remove the sideplate and clean & lube the internals. And hopefully the gunsmith will be happy that you're taking the time to learn how to properly maintain your gun from him.

 

[SnWnMe]

You'll eventually have to work on it. Get proper instruction or references and have at it! Use screwdrivers that don't taper at the very tip but fill the entire slot. I think they are called hollow ground? I bought my set from Home Depot. A handle with lots of bits.