Shotshell Roll Crimp

L

Lhigginsqrb

New member
Any opinions on roll crimps? I know they take longer. I’m looking at using them for my hunting rounds. Number 5 shot at 1300 FPS.
 
I think roll crimps on shotshell is best reserved for slugs or in cases where you simply CAN'T use a fold crimp. Other than that, a standard fold crimp I believe to be best.

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Why would you go to all that trouble when a standard fold crimp will get you to where you want to go?

Don
 
Nhyrum what are the pros and cons of each?

Uncke nick. Thanks. I wasn’t aware of that.

Ussr. I have a cheap mec press. The crimps are hit or miss. Remington hulls do well. I did some cheap AA ones and had all kinds of issues. Jams, crimps failing. Shot fell out of the receiver on a hunt. I may address that In another thread but I’m open to advice. Could be that press, the hulls, or something else. This crimp tool is much cheaper than a good press and supposedly could give me more consistent pressure and patterning. I’m just researching. I shoot 10-100 hunting rounds a year. Not many. Sometimes I play with other loadings.
 
Lhigginsqrb said:
Nhyrum what are the pros and cons of each?

Uncke nick. Thanks. I wasn’t aware of that.

Ussr. I have a cheap mec press. The crimps are hit or miss. Remington hulls do well. I did some cheap AA ones and had all kinds of issues. Jams, crimps failing. Shot fell out of the receiver on a hunt. I may address that In another thread but I’m open to advice. Could be that press, the hulls, or something else. This crimp tool is much cheaper than a good press and supposedly could give me more consistent pressure and patterning. I’m just researching. I shoot 10-100 hunting rounds a year. Not many. Sometimes I play with other loadings.
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I am not terribly versed in shotshell. But the two cons i can think of to a fold crimp are I believe they're a bit harder on the hulls as they will tend to crack after a few loadings, and they don't hold buck or slugs well as they pretty much have to be set at a certain height, which, IMHO, that's the only pro to a roll crimp. You'll usually have to use an over shot card with roll crimps unless you use slugs, so that's an extra step, but nothing horrible.

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I learned that once fired factory shot shells are no problem for a fold crimp . I bought some new hulls and they did not crimp well . These were un skived hulls , after a call to ballistic products and a purchase of their skiving tool problem solved .
 
A roll crimp is especially nice in sub-gauges for steel waterfowl loads. An extra pellet can cause a fold crimp not to close, whereas a roll crimp can handle a good amount of variation.
 
CHEAP hulls are CHEAP for reason.

I have 5 MEC loaders. AA, Rem black, green, blue hulls load great. Be aware of any hull with a base wad, do not reload them.

Loose crimps can and do happen. Notice those CHEAP Win rounds have heat sealed crimps.

Roll crimps have their place. That place is not on my bench.
 
If you have trouble with shot falling out of a loose crimp, you can always add a dab of hotmelt glue to your crimps to keep things in place and stop them from opening. Hot melt glue is a form of polyethylene. Plastic wads are polyethylene, so the hot melt won't harm anything.
 
Question on reply #10

Seedy Character,

In reply # 10 Seedy Character said
CHEAP hulls are CHEAP for reason.
I have 5 MEC loaders. AA, Rem black, green, blue hulls load great. Be aware of any hull with a base wad, do not reload them.
Loose crimps can and do happen. Notice those CHEAP Win rounds have heat sealed crimps.
Roll crimps have their place. That place is not on my bench.

What is the caution on reloading a hull with a base wad?
Thanks,
Doug
*
 
A base wad reduces the internal space, requiring the use of a hull-specific shot wad with shorter legs. If you reload anything but Winchester AA hulls, always check other hulls for the presence of a different internal configuration. To get a good look at the difference, saw off the top three-forths of both different, empty, fired hulls. This is one of the first things I learned when I started reloading shotgun shells.

I only use Winchester AA hulls for 12-GA with WINAA wads or Clay Buster CB-1118-12 wads for 1- or 1-1/8oz loads. In 20-GA, I can get away with either WinAA or Remington "Gun Club" hulls with 1-oz loads with CB-1078-20 wads. Other Remington ribbed hulls may work but crimps may bulge or get too deep, so I stopped experimenting with them.

To add to Unclenick's suggestion, if you don't have a hot melt glue gun available, just light a candle and drip the wax over the hole in the crimp where the short escapes. Needless to say, do it well away from your gun powder inventory......
 
Ussr. I have a cheap mec press. The crimps are hit or miss. Remington hulls do well. I did some cheap AA ones and had all kinds of issues. Jams, crimps failing. Shot fell out of the receiver on a hunt. I may address that In another thread but I’m open to advice. Could be that press, the hulls, or something else. This crimp tool is much cheaper than a good press and supposedly could give me more consistent pressure and patterning. I’m just researching. I shoot 10-100 hunting rounds a year. Not many. Sometimes I play with other loadings.
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Did you match the hull and components? There are no cheap AA hulls; unless you mean cheap Winchester hulls like their Universals or similar which are NOT the same as AAs. Remington and AAs use the same data as they are tapered hulls, Euro hulls and Universals, etc. are straight-walled hulls requiring a different wad. It also sounds like your MEC needs some pre-crimp adjustment and fine tuning.
 
Fit. Everything was matched according to a recipe. I’m thinking I may be need to skivv them. The other loads went just fine. I’m not short on hulls so I’ll probably just not use those anymore. It’s been a long while since I attempted any of this.
 
FITASC, you are correct - my typo. The CB-1078-20 wads are 7/8-oz. The Win AA-F1 is for 1-oz.

Which brings up another issue. A 7/8-oz load of #7-1/2 shot has 306 pieces of shot while the 1-oz load has 350, a difference of 44 "pellets." But a casual look at both wads suggests they are the same because the overall length of both is equal at 1.72."

The difference lies in the size of the over-the-powder cup and legs, leaving the WAA-F1 area that holds the shot large enough to accommodate the room for the extra 44 "pellets."

So it's easy to mix these up -and I have done so -but using the same hulls, 1-oz of shot in the CB-1078-20 wad will find your crimp bulging, alerting you to the wrong wad being in that round.
 
Those "cheap" hulls, with seperate base wad ( like the Winchester ) can be easily identified because the base wad is WHITE inside the RED hull. Firing a reload hull, that base wad can become loose and lodge in your barrel. Some hulls have a heavy fiber wad. These sticking in your barrel can be disastrous.

The "brass" head is actually aluminum on some of those "cheap" hulls and has a tendency to split easily.

A good hull can be loaded several (10 or more) times. Use good hulls and stick to the recipe.
 
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