gunbuddy210
Inactive
I have a Marlin Goose for years, first thing I was told was NO SLUGS. I assumed the 36in smooth bore was the reason, What other s/guns are not good for slugs and why.
Shotgun slugs
- Thread starter gunbuddy210
- Start date
The only reason you could not or should not shoot a rifled slug in a smooth bore is the choke being so restricted to create a dangerous situation. Not sure why you could not shoot a rifled slug unless it has an extra full choke but you need to follow manufacturer directions. Try Dixie Slugs Tri-Ball, it will kill anything on earth.
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very full ? it's even more so if it's choked for lead shot . My Benelli with STEEL shot and MOD choke gives me a EXTRA EXTRA FULL pattern !! 
That's because steel doesn't deform and the cup is extra thick .
Lesson --always pattern your ammo !
My solution was to think turkey and head shots and I was very successful that way.
That's because steel doesn't deform and the cup is extra thick .
Lesson --always pattern your ammo !
My solution was to think turkey and head shots and I was very successful that way.
A Mossberg 12 Gauge Model 835 is overbored to .775". Don't shoot a slug from one of them - a chance of the slug getting sideways in the bore and possibly sticking.
As far as the Goose Gun goes, The only choke claim for them I've ever seen is Full Choke. That's 0.40" of constriction. Any Foster rifled slug can be fired through a full choke with no problems. I've seen a measurement of 0.695" for the choke on a Goose Gun, which would indicate a slight overbore from the 0.729" nominal bore size to 0.735", not enough to pose any danger from firing slugs.
DC
As far as the Goose Gun goes, The only choke claim for them I've ever seen is Full Choke. That's 0.40" of constriction. Any Foster rifled slug can be fired through a full choke with no problems. I've seen a measurement of 0.695" for the choke on a Goose Gun, which would indicate a slight overbore from the 0.729" nominal bore size to 0.735", not enough to pose any danger from firing slugs.
DC
bamaranger
New member
common misinformation
Its not unusual to hear "no slugs" in reference to full choke. But measurements and metallurgy will allow it. Common Foster slugs rattle down the bore of most 12 ga's anyhow. They will clatter through the choke and go their merry way.
Not recommended for accuracy, but in most cases, possible and safe. Only thing I can think of is if somebody pressed/sleeved a choke tube in the gun that is absurdly tight. But a factory, fixed, full choke will handle a slug, though likely not w/ best accuracy.
Its not unusual to hear "no slugs" in reference to full choke. But measurements and metallurgy will allow it. Common Foster slugs rattle down the bore of most 12 ga's anyhow. They will clatter through the choke and go their merry way.
Not recommended for accuracy, but in most cases, possible and safe. Only thing I can think of is if somebody pressed/sleeved a choke tube in the gun that is absurdly tight. But a factory, fixed, full choke will handle a slug, though likely not w/ best accuracy.
viking1977
Inactive
Remington Model 11
I have a Remington Model 11. Shells are not chambering. I can manually chamber the first round fine. Spent shells eject when the shotgun cycles but the next round doesn't chamber and jams. It seems like the round is not getting kicked up into the receiver. Any ideas what my problem is and how I fix it.
Thanks
I have a Remington Model 11. Shells are not chambering. I can manually chamber the first round fine. Spent shells eject when the shotgun cycles but the next round doesn't chamber and jams. It seems like the round is not getting kicked up into the receiver. Any ideas what my problem is and how I fix it.
Thanks
Viking, there's a couple things to do, some of which are for a smith.
First, some 11s were chambered for ammo shorter than what we use now. A smith can tell by measuring the chamber, and while he/she has it, have them deep clean the action. Browning designs are famously overbuilt, but tolerances are tight and there's lots of little parts in there. While you're at it, have the smith install new springs and friction pieces,keep the old ones as spares. Browning A5 parts will interchange, at least these will but not others.
Inside the forearm wood is probably a diagram of how the friction pieces go together for loads of various power. If not there. mayhap someone here will post a link.
Once running, stick to 2 3/4" ammo.These are not magnums but are fine old workhorse shotguns.
HTH...
First, some 11s were chambered for ammo shorter than what we use now. A smith can tell by measuring the chamber, and while he/she has it, have them deep clean the action. Browning designs are famously overbuilt, but tolerances are tight and there's lots of little parts in there. While you're at it, have the smith install new springs and friction pieces,keep the old ones as spares. Browning A5 parts will interchange, at least these will but not others.
Inside the forearm wood is probably a diagram of how the friction pieces go together for loads of various power. If not there. mayhap someone here will post a link.
Once running, stick to 2 3/4" ammo.These are not magnums but are fine old workhorse shotguns.
HTH...