Shot the Colt Walker today

R

rem1858

New member
Took the Walker out today for the first time :D

Loaded one chamber with a calculated 50gr(40gr by weight of Pyro P).
Used a 2 hand hold and off it went, not bad recoil at all and the lever did not drop.

Loaded one chamber with a calculated 56gr(45gr by weight of Pyro P)
Used one hand and off it went, recoil not bad and the lever started to drop.

Shot one handed the rest of the time.

Went ahead and loaded the first cylinder with the 50gr.
All went off without a problem and the lever dropped once I think.

Loaded second cylinder with 56gr.
All went off and the lever dropped like 2 times.

Loaded third cylinder with 50gr.
All went off and the lever I think dropped 4 or 5 times.

I am going to go to a .457" balls for the Walker cause it barely shaves a ring off, unlike my 1858 shaves a good ring off with the .454" balls.

Very cool pistol.

A few of the caps just disappeared, I wonder if after it fired the hammer came back again just enough for the cap to fly away(did not see anything in the action).
I am using CCI #10's, they fit pretty snug.
Half of the caps blow apart and I flick them off after cocking the action for the next round and half of them look okay and stay on until the cylinder is empty.
My 1858 blows all the caps and I just flick the gun evertime I cock it and they just fly off the nipples.

I found that I needed to clean the arbor after every cylinder full, cause it would start to bind up.
It was not the face of the cylinder binding against the barrel, cause I removed the barrel and it still bound.
Cleaned the arbor getting off the baked on residue and put the cylinder back on and it was fine until the next cylinder full.

Not a big deal to me cause it is a slow and methodical pistol to load.
I find it more appealing just to load the cylinder with powder, wad and ball and remove the cylinder to apply the grease over the balls then reinstall the cylinder and then cap it, just like I do on the 1858 Rem.

Before you guys get on me about my weights and measures again :rolleyes:
I ordered a powder flask and different sized tips(30-35-40-50gr.) and
2 extra cylinders for my 1858 from the Possible Shop.

Overall a great day in the desert and shooting 2 cap and ball revolvers.
Kabooooom :D

Clarence
 
Nice

I originally did not like the looks of the Walker. I thought it was out of proportion and just looked dumb. But I sure to enjoy shooting the thing. It is a real emotional rush.

IIRC I am using Remington 11s. The only problem I has was a short nipple which I fixed with a set of Tresos.

I love reading about these things.
 
I have a Uberti Walker Colt replica I bought about five years ago that I am ashamed to say I've never even shot. It's my first and only black powder firearm. I even bought powder, caps, balls, the whole works. It's a beautiful piece with the charcoal blue finish. I take it out and handle it now and then, I've just never taken it out to shoot it.
 
I find it more appealing just to load the cylinder with powder, wad and ball and remove the cylinder to apply the grease over the balls then reinstall the cylinder and then cap it, just like I do on the 1858 Rem.
Click to expand...
You may be a likely candidate for a cylinder loading press. :)
 
Zippy13;
Who makes a loading press that I can use ?

Rifleman1776;
Yah, thats what they say so you do not blow up the flask in case of an ember.
I am not too overly concerned cause I carry a 30lb. air tank with me to blow out the cylinders and nipples between loadings(works very well).
I still will load from a separate device just for redundancy.

Clarence
 
Zippy13;
Who makes a loading press that I can use ?
Click to expand...
s7_217560_imageset_01
Cylinder loaders are a specialty item. The simple lever ones ($20 at Cabelas) don't set the ram true because of their geometry.

Several members have fabricated their own loaders using rollers, cams or toggles to power the ram through an alignment guide. These loaders vary in complexity, see the recent thread Cylinder Loader for a few examples. If you like the simplicity of my wood construction (built for less than Cabelas $20), I can eMail you the plans.
 
Carry a small plastic squeeze bottle of Ballistol or olive oil and put a drop of oil right on the area where the cylinder pin is below the cylinder gap. Rotate and jiggle the cylinder to work it onto the pin. That will free up the cylinder without having to knock the gun apart each time. Saves a lot of messy black crud all over your hands.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top