Shooting reloads with Glocks. . .

Hantra

New member
All:

Some have warned me against shooting reloaded ammunition with a Glock pistol. I have absolutely no idea why, but I am wondering if this is a legitimate statement, or just some BS.

I have a Glock 32 (.357 SIG) and the ammo is hellishly expensive, and rare. I'd like to reload but I know nothing about it.

So, what's the concensus on reloads for Glocks?

Thanks!

B
 
Hantra

Hoping someone will verify/expand on this, here goes:

The Glock has what is called an unsupported chamber. This functions fine when using factory loads. The "problem" occurs when reloads that are too hot are used, when may result in a Kaboom.

If you use reloads, an after market barrel such as one from Barstow (sp?) is recommended. There is another barrel maker that is mentioned fairly often but I don't remember their name. If using factory reloads, not much problem. You might try a
search for kaboom or unsupported chamber.

Try this:

www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74191&highlight=unsupported+chamber
 
Actually, if you don't "hot-rod" your reloads, but load on the milder side of life, you will have no problems.

BUT, if you do like to beef up your reloads, you do run the risk of a problem with ANY unsupported chamber handgun.

I have run THOUSANDS of reloads through my Glock 22 and 23. These are MOSTLY lead bullets and some "copper plated" (not copper jacketed) bullets. They are all loaded on the "minimum" side of the scale.

After I shoot a hundred or two lead bullets, I shoot a mag full of the copper plated bullets to "clean out the bore" of lead fouling.

Some people will tell you this is dangerous, and it is if you wait too long and have too much lead fouling. But if I do it before I have shot 200 rounds, then it is OK for MY guns, using MY loads. YMMV.

cheers

tire iron
 
I think it more than JUST a matter of hotter loads causing the problem.

The Polygonal barrels used in a number of guns, (Glocks, H&Ks and some CZs, for example) tend to lead-up faster than conventional rifling. All the makers of guns using these types of barrels warn against using lead. (Its my understanding, perhaps incorrect, that the polygonal barrels have more contact with the bullet and tend to collect more lead than the traditional lands/grooves.)

From the experience of friends, the real problem arises if you use a lead that is very soft, and don't clean the barrel thoroughly after each range session. (One acquaintance, a world-ranked IPSC shooter, uses lead in his Glocks, but he's very fussy about the type of lead used and the bullet size. I've never gotten the details, 'cause I don't reload, and I no longer have a Glock...)

My son used my Glock 17 during his Basic Law Enforcement Training course a couple of years ago, and it shot fine, but we cleaned it each night, and there was a substantial lead buildup.

Too much lead build up will lead to excessive chamber pressures, and that can lead to kabooms...

Ask around, go to the Glock boards, and find what is being used successfully.
 
Shooting Reloads in Glocks.....YES!

I have an 11 year old Glock 21 [45ACP] that I may have fired a box of factory in. The rest of the thousands of rounds have been RELOADS. The only catch is, I have been reloading since 1970. Know what you are doing and be SAFE!!!
 
Yes, but he would be loading 357 SIG, not 45 ACP. If I were him I would check the safety precautions VERY thoroughly before re-loading 357 SIG. If it were me.

justinr1
 
Why do people do that?

The Glock 357 SIG chamber is not "unsupported". I have a 32. I have put over 1200 rnds through it in the last 7 months, all jhp reloads. The bullets rest on the powder column to prevent "setback". I did buy a Federal 40 S&W bbl which has a very tight chamber also.

So why do people write that which they know little or nothing about?
 
There are several things to consider when shooting reloads in a Glock. First, there's the Glock warranty which requires that you use only factory ammo in your Glock pistol. Technically, you negate that warranty if you use non-factory ammo. However, I have never heard of Glock refusing service on any of their pistols that needed repair -- regardless of the reason. You may have to pay for replacement parts or a new pistol in worse case senarios, but usually at a substantially reduced prices. Glock's customer service is the best in the business, IMHO.

Secondly, Glocks have polygonal rifling in their bores which allow the bullet to seal the gases better than traditional land and groove rifling. With the use of lead bullets, lead particles shed from bullets down the bore have no where to hide in polygonal rifling as in the lands and grooves of conventional rifling. Compound that with better bullet-to-bore sealing, serious pressure spikes can develop when the bore is fouled. Even cheap plated bullets have the potential to shed material that can increase pressure.

Lastly, there is the problem of loose chambers and less case support in non-9mm Glock pistols. While this makes Glock a most reliable combat pistol, it doesn't do much for handloaders -- especially those who like to take it to the limit or who carelessly or otherwise go beyond. This is especially a problem with the .40 Glocks -- though some chambers seem tighter than others. You should check your fired cases for bulging and primer probs.

Therefore, it is usually recommended that if you are going to shoot reloads in your Glock pistol, that you get a replacement barrel (Bar-Sto, Jarvis, Wilson, KKM, Briley, Federal Arms, etc.) that has more support, a tighter chamber and conventional rifling. Then use your Glock factory barrel with factory loads for business.

That stated, many Glocksters are quite happy using their factory barrels with reloads and do so successfully. The things to remember here are usual handloading precautions, preferrably the use of good quality jacketed bullets and judicious inspection of fired cases (the hotter the loads, the less number of times the case should be recycled). If you use lead bullets, just remember to inspect and clean your barrel often to prevent any lead buildup in the chamber or bore. Be careful out there!
 
I've put about 1000 rounds through my Glock 30 so far. All but about 50 have been swaged lead reloads. I clean thoroughly after every range session, and I'm not dead yet. Lead does build up quickly in the throat area, but a good stiff brush will cure that.
 
A lot of handgun manufacturers say that shooting reloaded ammunition in their guns will void the warranty; it's standard lawyer-induced CYA. If I remember correctly, even my Ruger Vaqueros came with a statement like that! And again, Ruger never denies waranty work because of someone shooting reloads (or a lot of cowboy shooters would be awfully upset).
 
Here are some points.

1. Shooting lead bullets in a Glock is a bad idea. MarkCO has posted his first-hand data in this thread: http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=82

The summary of the data is as follows. This is using the *same* load in all cases. It demonstrates how lead bullets will cause dangerous overpressure situations.

baseline load: 33.0 kpsi
after 50 lead: 34.2 kpsi
after 100 lead: 35.1 kpsi
after 150 lead: 38.8 kpsi
after 200 lead: 41.0 kpsi
after 300 lead: 45.0 kpsi

2. Max. pressure in 357SIG is 40 kpsi, as opposed to 35kpsi for .40 and 9mm. Since 357SIG is a bottleneck cartridge, it takes more skill and time to reload it safely. Combine these two factors, and a little mistake is more likely to cause something bad to happen.

3. You can buy a Glock23 barrel (.40SW) from http://www.Glockmeister.com for about $120 + shipping. This factory barrel drops right in and you can now shoot .40. Buy a conventionally-rifled barrel (Bar-Sto, KKM, etc) if you want to shoot lead.

-z
 
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