Do you guys think that would be a fair price on a 1941 k98? Not a whole lot is matching on the rifle and I don't believe theres anything about it that would make this gun super valuable, but I just want one that I can shoot. I have a Battle of the Bulge pickup from 1944 that my grandfather brought home with the duffle cut on it and I never want to shoot it, just too much sentimental value with it and I don't want to break and have to replace something on it. This rifle I'm looking at has some stock issues but that could always be replaced. Anways, go or no-go? I can always wait and find something better.
shooter grade K98 for $300 out the door?
- Thread starter Pops1085
- Start date
salt and battery
Moderator
Pop you will not break your mauser by shooting it.
Model12Win
Moderator
Do not replace the stock on the K98 if you do but it, unless it's heavily damaged. And if you somehow feel the need, keep the original stock and don't mess with it.
Too many old surplus guns that have been refinished and whatnot by amateurs, this ruins collector's value and the history of the rifle.
Too many old surplus guns that have been refinished and whatnot by amateurs, this ruins collector's value and the history of the rifle.
This gun definitely has no collectors value. None of the parts are matching from what I can tell. The only reason I mention replacing the stock is it looks well... dry. I could see it cracking in the future. Still though, even if I got a new stock and had a smith put it on I'd be in 4-500 dollars.
ligonierbill
New member
Don't fret about non-matching parts numbers too much. Many old Mausers were refurbished/rebarrelled at armories and contractors, particularly after WWI. The key to yours is that it's a true battlefield pickup. I wouldn't mess with it. If you want to shoot it, get some ammo from a major US maker. It will be severely downloaded. Have a smith check it if you have concerns.
Minimal function/safety check, headspace check, and before you buy- pull the action from stock and inspect for heavy pitting below the stock line at the receiver ring that would be cause for concern.
If you can't do these on your own, take it to a local smith for a look over before considering it a "shooter".
Is this a Russian capture rifle? Signs it is are a serial number stamped in the left side of the butt, and the serial number electro-penciled on the bolt. Generally on a RC K98, the S/N on the action will match the barrel, and be electro-penciled on the bolt, but nothing else will match.
It may or may not have the German markings defaced, and it may or may not have a crossed rifles stamp that looks like an "X" on the receiver ring.
You said the stock looks dry, could it be shellac? The Russians slathered that crap on everything.
If it is a Russian Capture rifle, and the electro-pencil number on the bolt matches, I personally would not bother with getting it headspaced, the Russians did when they refurbed them. If you do, buy yourself the "Field" gauge, GO and NOGO are really only for installing a new barrel.
It may or may not have the German markings defaced, and it may or may not have a crossed rifles stamp that looks like an "X" on the receiver ring.
You said the stock looks dry, could it be shellac? The Russians slathered that crap on everything.
If it is a Russian Capture rifle, and the electro-pencil number on the bolt matches, I personally would not bother with getting it headspaced, the Russians did when they refurbed them. If you do, buy yourself the "Field" gauge, GO and NOGO are really only for installing a new barrel.
Refinished and whatnot by anybody ruins collector's value.
There are a lot of variables aside from the date that affect a milsurp's value. One of 'em is where it was made. Where you are matters as well.
Anyway, you could just buy a Mitchell M48 for a shooter. No collector interest or value in those. Even the one's the say are collector pieces.
"...could it be shellac?..." Shellac dries kind of shiney.
There are a lot of variables aside from the date that affect a milsurp's value. One of 'em is where it was made. Where you are matters as well.
Anyway, you could just buy a Mitchell M48 for a shooter. No collector interest or value in those. Even the one's the say are collector pieces.
"...could it be shellac?..." Shellac dries kind of shiney.
Clarification.
"Go" gauges are used only when installing a new barrel, or checking minimal headspace clearance.
Many- including myself and the CMP, use the no-go as a minimum "standard" and not the field gauge. OP stated he wanted to use this as a regular shooter. Checking with a field gauge only confirms that it may be safe to shoot (but forget about reloading for it) at that time, but gives no idea as to how close it may be to crossing that line to the other side.
One can certainly use a field gauge as a barometer for purchase if they choose- but to say that no-go gauges are only useful for re-barreling is incorrect. Passing a no-go gives some assurance of remaining "life"; passing a field means it could it could be tight as a gnat's behind and perfect, OR have 1000 rounds (or less) left before lug wear/setback makes it a wallhanger.
Now, one that's experienced in the regular use of these gauges can tell by "feel" and length of bolt throw additional information, but most including the OP could not.
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Pops, $300 in my neck of the woods, for a shooter grade k98 is not uncommon, in fact less than that is a rarity, as far as your battlefield p/u; I have been shooting a 1941 "duv" 98 that was p/u by a friends grandfather. 
I acquired it over 12 years ago and I have probably stuffed over 1000 rounds since that time (maybe 100 rounds a year) without a bobble. I have various other milsurps so it doesn't get all my attention, just sayin "no worries" with a battlefield rifle !!
Hope that helps
I acquired it over 12 years ago and I have probably stuffed over 1000 rounds since that time (maybe 100 rounds a year) without a bobble. I have various other milsurps so it doesn't get all my attention, just sayin "no worries" with a battlefield rifle !! Hope that helps
You really have to know the guns and their various history before you can say what is said below. I am not disagreeing with it, just it has to be put in context.
The Model of 1917s I have collected ALL are barley inside so called field reject.
The barrels are new or close to new, MW and TE are under 2 (1 is normal) barrels clean up to sparkling new.
that was just the nature of that Military offering, this is not SAMMI, this is a combat rifle.
I don't know how Mausers are, let alone the different mfgs and dates in German let alone the knock offs.
So also find out if Field gauge is the better check on these!
I would think a CMP member would know as well as the TE and MW aspects to help assess a military rifle.
1903s are definitely chambered tighter and a no go works for them.
The Model of 1917s I have collected ALL are barley inside so called field reject.
The barrels are new or close to new, MW and TE are under 2 (1 is normal) barrels clean up to sparkling new.
that was just the nature of that Military offering, this is not SAMMI, this is a combat rifle.
I don't know how Mausers are, let alone the different mfgs and dates in German let alone the knock offs.
So also find out if Field gauge is the better check on these!
I would think a CMP member would know as well as the TE and MW aspects to help assess a military rifle.
1903s are definitely chambered tighter and a no go works for them.
Wartime Mausers of German manufacture are of suspect quality as to alloy and heat treatment- as is the case of many other wartime production, made-with-slave-labor firearms being pushed out the door.
I stand by my statement that, if a rifle is to be a shooter- and not a once-in-a-while fired collectible- that a no-go gauge is preferable to a field gauge.
This is x2 if it handloaded ammunition is to be used. Good luck with your brass life from a chamber that barely passes a field gauge.
I am not disagreeing.
I am saying its in context. Does a Field Reject indicate quality, worn bore or is it common for a Mauser?
I don't know if there are Mauser TE and MW but that would be another inspection to be done.
Boroscope would give a good idea of interior condition.
As for my Brass, I use recovered brass for the 1917 and don't worry about the loss when it starts to go.
I am saying its in context. Does a Field Reject indicate quality, worn bore or is it common for a Mauser?
I don't know if there are Mauser TE and MW but that would be another inspection to be done.
Boroscope would give a good idea of interior condition.
As for my Brass, I use recovered brass for the 1917 and don't worry about the loss when it starts to go.
further clarification,
It is quite easy to use a neck sizing die to reload for a "generous" chamber, or to adjust the full length sizing die to only minimally push the cartridge shoulder back. Full length sizing back to SAAMI or CIP cartridge geometry every time will definitely shorten brass life for ammo being shot through a generous chamber.
It is also rather easy to keep measuring headspace changes in a chamber if you are a handloader. After all you can make an absolute headspace gauge for an 8x57 chamber with a resized brass and a 45 caliber bronze bore brush. Rather convenient tool, and cheap to make as well.
So, don't forget about reloading for it, and don't be afraid to make a tool to check your headspace.
Jimro
It is quite easy to use a neck sizing die to reload for a "generous" chamber, or to adjust the full length sizing die to only minimally push the cartridge shoulder back. Full length sizing back to SAAMI or CIP cartridge geometry every time will definitely shorten brass life for ammo being shot through a generous chamber.
It is also rather easy to keep measuring headspace changes in a chamber if you are a handloader. After all you can make an absolute headspace gauge for an 8x57 chamber with a resized brass and a 45 caliber bronze bore brush. Rather convenient tool, and cheap to make as well.
So, don't forget about reloading for it, and don't be afraid to make a tool to check your headspace.
Jimro
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
Discussions from back in the 1950s generally held that 98s made in 1942 and earlier were definitely better than 1943s. Deliberately sloppy work began in late 1943 on to the end of production. (From stories told by freed slave-labor guys.)