Ruger integral mounts: I bedded the lower mount ring to get a good fit. But, when mountng the scope I must shim the rear of the scope to get enuf elevation for long yardage. What type of material shall I use to line my rear mount to accomplish this? If this were a traditional mounting system, (bases and rings) I would simply shim the rear base, but in the case of ruger rings it is not possible. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Anyone with the exact scenario? Thanks
Shimming scope mount: Opinions needed!
- Thread starter tkofoid
- Start date
Huffmanite
New member
I have used metal cut from either an aluminum beer or soft drink can as a shim. Also, epoxy putty may work. Kneed a piece, flatten it out, lay in ring and then tighten down ring to where you want it. Trim off excess. Of course, apply a release agent to your scope first.
I have had to shim bases before, but never the rings.
If I had to I would buy a set of feeler gages that come in sizes .001" thru around .035".
They are about 1/2" wide and around three inches in length, you can cut them to length, that way you can get the exact amount of shim you need.
I believe shimming rings may torque or induce a bend to the scope tube and may cause trouble holding zero properly though.
Good luck
If I had to I would buy a set of feeler gages that come in sizes .001" thru around .035".
They are about 1/2" wide and around three inches in length, you can cut them to length, that way you can get the exact amount of shim you need.
I believe shimming rings may torque or induce a bend to the scope tube and may cause trouble holding zero properly though.
Good luck
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Idahogunsmith
Inactive
Ouch
Shim stock can be bought in host of thickness to resolve you issue from usually a bearing supply store. The next best solution was the one already given, you can buy brass ignition feeler gauges at a local auto parts store. Usually folks shim to get the scope and the lense paralex perfect aligned before using the elevation knobs but it should work Good Luck Mac
Shim stock can be bought in host of thickness to resolve you issue from usually a bearing supply store. The next best solution was the one already given, you can buy brass ignition feeler gauges at a local auto parts store. Usually folks shim to get the scope and the lense paralex perfect aligned before using the elevation knobs but it should work Good Luck Mac
I ran into a related problem when I had to correct for an "off-level" Ruger quarter rib on a #1. The front of the rib was higher than the back...this is similar to needing to raise the rear ring for long range work.
As the Burris Z-rings aren't available for Ruger mounts, you can either get a Ruger to Weaver adapter so you can use Burris rings (kind of klugy looking), or you can lap the front ring lower.
Believe me, this is a lot of work! If you are trying for 0.012" or so, it takes an awful lot of lapping compound and an entire day to do this right.
When you're done, the rings are parallel and the front ring is lower than it was when it started. The front edge of the rear ring is also slightly lower.
If you take the ring down far enough, say 0.030", you may have to flat file the "ears" of the lower ring half a little so the upper ring half will still clamp.
As the Burris Z-rings aren't available for Ruger mounts, you can either get a Ruger to Weaver adapter so you can use Burris rings (kind of klugy looking), or you can lap the front ring lower.
Believe me, this is a lot of work! If you are trying for 0.012" or so, it takes an awful lot of lapping compound and an entire day to do this right.
When you're done, the rings are parallel and the front ring is lower than it was when it started. The front edge of the rear ring is also slightly lower.
If you take the ring down far enough, say 0.030", you may have to flat file the "ears" of the lower ring half a little so the upper ring half will still clamp.
My Plan is in play
Thanks for all the responses! As I mentioned, I have already bedded the lower rings. I am going to rip that out and start over using the the top ring to place the scope up or down as far as I wish. At the end of the day, I should end up with perfectly fitting mounts, without lapping, and the elevation in the rear exactly high enough so I can get to the desired objective. I have bedded other scopes with JB weld with great success,but never for a 600 yard gun. I have a long winter ahead here in N.D. so I have plenty of time to do it. Feel free to shoot holes in my plan.
Thanks for all the responses! As I mentioned, I have already bedded the lower rings. I am going to rip that out and start over using the the top ring to place the scope up or down as far as I wish. At the end of the day, I should end up with perfectly fitting mounts, without lapping, and the elevation in the rear exactly high enough so I can get to the desired objective. I have bedded other scopes with JB weld with great success,but never for a 600 yard gun. I have a long winter ahead here in N.D. so I have plenty of time to do it. Feel free to shoot holes in my plan.
CarterMccoy
New member
NEVER SHIM
My daddy told me once "A shim is a fool's own downfall".
Get the mount right and never touch it again.
IMHO.
I have NEVER had ANY luck shimming anything, and never met anyone who has.
My daddy told me once "A shim is a fool's own downfall".
Get the mount right and never touch it again.
IMHO.
I have NEVER had ANY luck shimming anything, and never met anyone who has.
"...Get the mount right....."
Not much you can do with Ruger "mounts".
I don't quite understand what you're planning with the "top ring". Have you actually sighted this scope in on this gun with the loads you're going to use? If zero'ed @ 100 yards, you can do the math and find out how much adjustment you need to zero for 600, and see if it adjusts that far. Before doing anything heroic, I'd see if it really needs to be done first.
If you do anything to change the height of the base/scope relationship, you are going to change the alignment of the rings. Torqueing the scope unevenly in the rings can damage the scope and cause problems with it's function. That's what the lapping is about when changing anything, to asssure both rings bores are perfectly parallel.
Some scopes also have more adjustment range than others.
http://demigodllc.com/articles/practical-long-range-rifle-shooting-equipment/
Not much you can do with Ruger "mounts".
I don't quite understand what you're planning with the "top ring". Have you actually sighted this scope in on this gun with the loads you're going to use? If zero'ed @ 100 yards, you can do the math and find out how much adjustment you need to zero for 600, and see if it adjusts that far. Before doing anything heroic, I'd see if it really needs to be done first.
If you do anything to change the height of the base/scope relationship, you are going to change the alignment of the rings. Torqueing the scope unevenly in the rings can damage the scope and cause problems with it's function. That's what the lapping is about when changing anything, to asssure both rings bores are perfectly parallel.
Some scopes also have more adjustment range than others.
http://demigodllc.com/articles/practical-long-range-rifle-shooting-equipment/
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Shimming rings and mounts is not the way to go. Night-Force tapered MOA bases will take care of the problem. Yep, they do get pricey but they are worth it.
OOps read the part where it has integral mounts. These will not work.
http://nightforceoptics.com/nightforcescopes/RINGS__BASES___MOUNTS/rings__bases___mounts.html
OOps read the part where it has integral mounts. These will not work.
http://nightforceoptics.com/nightforcescopes/RINGS__BASES___MOUNTS/rings__bases___mounts.html
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Something just occured to me when reading the last post. Some of the early Ruger 77's were made as "round tops" without the integral Ruger ring bases. The round tops used Remington 700 scope bases. If one really needed the extra adjustment for lonager range, you could contour the reciever top, drill and tap for Remington type bases, and use those +20 or +30 MOA bases.
I'd still try the scope in question to see if it has the adjustment range for the load you will use. 600 isnt all that far. 1000 is.
Another scope may be a simpler option also.
I'd still try the scope in question to see if it has the adjustment range for the load you will use. 600 isnt all that far. 1000 is.
Another scope may be a simpler option also.
ackley man
New member
DON'T DO IT!
Attemting to shim between the scope tube and ring will unquestionably lead you down the road to disaster! Even the slighest uneven pressure on the scope tube will effect the erector lens inside of the scope and screw up the accuracy of your scope windage and/or elevation adjustments. This is why proper mounting of a scope requires alignment of the rings with an alignment tool and laping of the rings with a laping tool and compound. The proper solution to your problem is relatively simple - Burris make rings called Signature rings. Each ring has an articulating (2 piece) insert that rotates inside of the ring to self align the scope. For these rings they sell a kit called Pos-Align Offset Inserts. With the offset inserts you can gain the elevation that you require. You should note that you cannot mix and match the pieces from the insert kit. In other words if you use a +20 insert bottom you must use the +20 top. Using the Signature rings and offset inserts you will accomplish your goal without causing damage to your scope tube and internal workings of your scope. Finally, this is a much more cost effective than purchasing a tactical scope mount. Good luck.
Doug @ Firearms Unlimited
Attemting to shim between the scope tube and ring will unquestionably lead you down the road to disaster! Even the slighest uneven pressure on the scope tube will effect the erector lens inside of the scope and screw up the accuracy of your scope windage and/or elevation adjustments. This is why proper mounting of a scope requires alignment of the rings with an alignment tool and laping of the rings with a laping tool and compound. The proper solution to your problem is relatively simple - Burris make rings called Signature rings. Each ring has an articulating (2 piece) insert that rotates inside of the ring to self align the scope. For these rings they sell a kit called Pos-Align Offset Inserts. With the offset inserts you can gain the elevation that you require. You should note that you cannot mix and match the pieces from the insert kit. In other words if you use a +20 insert bottom you must use the +20 top. Using the Signature rings and offset inserts you will accomplish your goal without causing damage to your scope tube and internal workings of your scope. Finally, this is a much more cost effective than purchasing a tactical scope mount. Good luck.
Doug @ Firearms Unlimited
respectfully dissagree
I have bedded more than one scope in the lower ring with great success.
It is the same and exact theory as bedding the rifle to its stock. The purpose for bedding the rifle to its stock is to create a stress - free , yet secure, enviroment. The same scenaria applys to the scope. By lapping the rings, one takes out enough material for the scope to lay in a true, non binding platform. Filling any voids with epoxy in the rings creates that ''true and non-binding'' platform. I use the top ring to simply hold the scope in place. It takes very little tention to do this once the lower rings are trued up. I place rosin in the lower ring unto the epoxy to create a non slip surface for the scope to rest in. In this case I am simply going to elevate the rear of the scope via placing enough epoxy in the ring to do raise the rear of the scope .010". I have a couple rifles with the burris signature rings and love-em. In this case I am going to use the intregal rings designed for the rifle.
I have bedded more than one scope in the lower ring with great success.
It is the same and exact theory as bedding the rifle to its stock. The purpose for bedding the rifle to its stock is to create a stress - free , yet secure, enviroment. The same scenaria applys to the scope. By lapping the rings, one takes out enough material for the scope to lay in a true, non binding platform. Filling any voids with epoxy in the rings creates that ''true and non-binding'' platform. I use the top ring to simply hold the scope in place. It takes very little tention to do this once the lower rings are trued up. I place rosin in the lower ring unto the epoxy to create a non slip surface for the scope to rest in. In this case I am simply going to elevate the rear of the scope via placing enough epoxy in the ring to do raise the rear of the scope .010". I have a couple rifles with the burris signature rings and love-em. In this case I am going to use the intregal rings designed for the rifle.
Harry Bonar
New member
shim
Sir;
Leupold shims either the rear base or the rear ring to get more vertical adjustment - this is common with high magnification scopes.
Harry B.
Sir;
Leupold shims either the rear base or the rear ring to get more vertical adjustment - this is common with high magnification scopes.
Harry B.
Are you using this rifle for range or field shooting? If you are range shooting I can see you may have a problem depending on the scope. If you are field shooting why do you want a 600 yard yero?? I've shot literaly hundreds of camels and donkeys here in Western Australia with my Ruger M77 300WM , we zero at 300 meters and anything out further just hold over.I agree with previous comments, try the scope first and see how much elevation you can actually get out of it