I recently acquired a Sharps Carbine, pat. 1852. serial# C, 25748. It is in excellent condition. I think it may have been manufactured circa. 1853. Can anyone tell me where I can find out more information about this beauty? Also, can anyone tell me where I can find modern black powder ammunition for this carbine, as I would love to be able to fire it just a couple of times?
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Sharps Carbine Patent Date 1852.
- Thread starter AHandy
- Start date
mapsjanhere
New member
You don't buy those, you make them yourself. It's nothing but a bullet glued to a piece of paper. Here's some simple version
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxw9llzjf-4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxw9llzjf-4
JT-AR-MG42
New member
If you got the serial no. correct, the gun is a Civil War contract New Model '63.
A Sharps from 1853 would be a slant breech, not the vertical breech of a '63.
The following is intended only for a '63, NOT for a slant breech.
I absolutely do not recommend firing a slant breech without some really competent assistance.
No way of knowing your level of breech loading Sharps
experience through the internet, so not trying to talk down to you.
It is important that the gun be looked over by someone versed in them.
The block and gas check should be a good fit to the receiver.
Wear from use and black powder corrosion can contribute to a
loosening of the gas check on the face of the block.
This can result in excessive (to the point of being dangerous) gas leakage when fired.
If you are bound and determined to shoot it without having it
looked over, I can only recommend several things you do (better put, it is what I would do anyway).
1. The obvious, eye protection from the cap and gas leakage.
2. Heavy cotton long sleeve shirt and gloves that fit over the shirt cuffs.
3. Load the gun as you intend to with no cap on the nipple.
With the gun partially loaded, elevate the muzzle several times.
This will give the powder a chance to migrate if it is going to do so.
No need to shake the gun all around unless you'll be carrying it on horseback.
After having moved the muzzle up and down several times,
lower the muzzle (and while keeping it in that muzzle lowered position),
open the action and remove the block and lever.
You are looking for powder that has drifted down into the forearm area.
If satisfied, then proceed to dump out the charge and completely unload before re-assembly and re-loading.
Two things I would do if it were mine.
First, I'd remove the fore-end and cut some cardboard to use as a replacement to watch the level of gas leakage.
Wearing a heavy coat and the gloves to protect the left arm during this testing
would not be a bad idea.
Second, I would also make it a practice to always unload the gun if I had re-opened the breech
prior to firing for any reason.
Many originals Sharps breechloaders are missing their original forends due to them being fractured by loose powder.
Stay safe, my .02, JT
A Sharps from 1853 would be a slant breech, not the vertical breech of a '63.
The following is intended only for a '63, NOT for a slant breech.
I absolutely do not recommend firing a slant breech without some really competent assistance.
No way of knowing your level of breech loading Sharps
experience through the internet, so not trying to talk down to you.
It is important that the gun be looked over by someone versed in them.
The block and gas check should be a good fit to the receiver.
Wear from use and black powder corrosion can contribute to a
loosening of the gas check on the face of the block.
This can result in excessive (to the point of being dangerous) gas leakage when fired.
If you are bound and determined to shoot it without having it
looked over, I can only recommend several things you do (better put, it is what I would do anyway).
1. The obvious, eye protection from the cap and gas leakage.
2. Heavy cotton long sleeve shirt and gloves that fit over the shirt cuffs.
3. Load the gun as you intend to with no cap on the nipple.
With the gun partially loaded, elevate the muzzle several times.
This will give the powder a chance to migrate if it is going to do so.
No need to shake the gun all around unless you'll be carrying it on horseback.
After having moved the muzzle up and down several times,
lower the muzzle (and while keeping it in that muzzle lowered position),
open the action and remove the block and lever.
You are looking for powder that has drifted down into the forearm area.
If satisfied, then proceed to dump out the charge and completely unload before re-assembly and re-loading.
Two things I would do if it were mine.
First, I'd remove the fore-end and cut some cardboard to use as a replacement to watch the level of gas leakage.
Wearing a heavy coat and the gloves to protect the left arm during this testing
would not be a bad idea.
Second, I would also make it a practice to always unload the gun if I had re-opened the breech
prior to firing for any reason.
Many originals Sharps breechloaders are missing their original forends due to them being fractured by loose powder.
Stay safe, my .02, JT