Sharps 50-140 (.50x3-1/4" black powder or equiv.)

  • Thread starter Thread starter .
  • Start date Start date

.

New member
Am in serious contemplation of purchasing either a rolling block or falling block modern replica (C. Sharps or custom Remington)in this caliber with a 30 to 36-inch full round barrel and appropriate tang sites.

Purpose is long-range recreation.

I'd be very interested in any comments regarding actual experience with various actions, brands, rifling, twist, bullets and loads for this cartridge. Thank you in advance for your advice/experience.

------------------
Mykl
~~~~~
"If you really want to know what's going on;
then, you have to follow the money trail."
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
 
Mykl, Don't get one of the really huge cases like the .50x3.25 or the .45x3.25. They were not even original Sharps cartridges and the bigger the case the higher the fouling and the less likely it will work with smokeless loads. As far as actual experience I have played with a couple of .40-65s and .45-70s.

The easiest and smartest purchase is the .45-70. Cheap [relatively] brass, everyone sells bullets for it, and it is a very traditional cartridge. If you have to have something different and want a big boomer go with a .45-90, .45x2 7/8 [typically called a .45-100 or .45-110, and the biggest .45 on the buffalo range] or the big fifty, which was the .50x2.5 inch, NOT the .50x3.25 inch.

The current rage for a really long range rifle, meaning out to 1000 yds, is the .45-90. Cases are available again, though not as cheaply as the .45-70s. The .45s handle the wind better than the .40s, most think, and the .50s are so big that you get beaten to death when you go to a high sectional density bullet.

Personally I like both the Sharps and Rolling Block actions. Another to consider is the Ballard. These are being made again and by all accounts are top of the line in the modern rendition as well as the originals and were used on the plains in the 1870s. The Ballards start at around two grand and go up. If you buy a Sharps, the American versions are better.

I have not shot at longer than 200 yards with my rifles as I have nowhere to do so.
If you could be more specific about what you want it would help. For instance, if it doesn't have to be a buffalo harvest era rifle you can also look at Highwalls and Stevens 44 & 1/2s.

PS: A guy can have an awful lot of fun with a vintage military Rolling Block or Trapdoor Springfield for a whole lot less money and with good performance. The Buffington barrel sight on late model Springfields is a marvel.
 
AC,

I've been shooting a 45-70 Springfield trapdoor conversion. Bang and grins only with the 15+ pound trigger (original 1873). Also have been shooting the .45-70 Marlin 1895G as a boom and wince form of self-flagellation. I have a RRB#5 Carbine in 7mmSM, for which I'm considering having an additional barrel and cases made in .50USC (.43 Spanish was common fodder for this version action).

I'm interested in the .50x3.25, at this point, strictly as a novelty. I've located a few for sale, and fully cognizant of the fact that it was not a true "buffalo gun". I view it as shoulder-mounted artillery, with all the fun and fuss of BP. My only other options to fulfill this bent for a new toy is to either take up small-bore BP cannon or build my own unlimited-type BP boulder launcher.

I greatly appreciate your taking the time to share your experience and opinions with me!

------------------
Mykl
~~~~~
"If you really want to know what's going on;
then, you have to follow the money trail."
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$



[This message has been edited by Mykl (edited September 20, 1999).]
 
Mykl,
I don't know if they're for sale, but most of the old forts around here seem pretty well stocked with lg calibre boulder throwers that they don't use much any more. I know for a fact that Ft. Sumter has a number of truly huge examples that should more than fill the void in anyone's collection. Convincing the SC unorganized militia to part with them, or finding a place to shoot them.....Well that's another matter. :)
 
Mykl, Since you are sold on the 50x3.25 make sure it is a heavy one!!!!

One of my .40-65s weighs 11.5 pounds with a 30" heavy barrel, and it is a pain. It is so heavy it is cumbersome and has lost any handling qualities it may have had. That or I need anabolic steroids! I used to think I wanted a 14 to 16 lb Rolling Block or Sharps in a big .45 or .50x2.5". I no longer want it as I think I am cured of really heavy rifles.

Make sure you have no plans for smokeless powder if you go with a huge case. Personally the use of strictly black is too tedious for me, both loading and cleanup. But I know others that use it all the time. You may want to use just black for a while in the trapdoor, if you have not yet, to see if you like it enough to own a blackpowder only rifle, which is really what the very large case rifles are.

BTW, that trigger on your 1873 is too heavy, abnormally so. My Springfield is 6lbs I would guess. You might want to have a gunsmith familiar with the old rifles work on it. There is a fellow in CA who is modifying M1873 sights for repeatable adjustments if that interests you. The modification of your RB to a larger caliber sounds like a good idea. You could then have exactly what you want in respect to length, weight, sights, etc.
 
Mykl,

I agree with AC-if your going to get a gun of this caliber,get the heaviest barrel you can,because it will beat the crap out of you otherwise. I know someone who had a Sharps of that caliber and he fired about 7 shots,literally,before his shoulder gave out. He sold it soon after. I've shot a .45-120,and it really kicked-I can only imagine what a .50-140 would be like.

Bill
 
Mykl I would recomend a Shilo Sharps over a C-Sharps. Both factories are in Big Timber Mt, but the Shilo is a better gun. This is where Tom Selleck got his guns(personal guns too) in Quiggly down under. The guns are worth the wait. My dad has two in 45-70 I would choose the caliber for brass and you can shoot smokeless and black. I can get you in touch with someone who deals in them if you are interested.

Shilo is the company that the serial numbers start were Christian Sharps left off, because Shilo bought the old patent

Later
Daren

[This message has been edited by Daren Thompson (edited September 20, 1999).]
 
Back
Top