Sharp Shoot R Wipe-Out No-Lead, tested

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Shadow9mm

New member
So I have been having lead buildup in a couple guns and have been trying a few dedicated lead removal products to try and make cleaning a little easier.

so I bought NO-Lead to try, ran into an issue while reading the instructions.

Instructions for the use of "NO-LEAD". This product is only used in conjunction with "WIPE-OUT" or "PATCH-OUT". We won't warranty the use of "NO-LEAD" with any other product.

1. Clean the firearm with "NO-LEAD" first then final clean with "WIPE-OUT" to remove any dissolved residue left behind.

2. Apply Liberally to the bore area where lead has accumulated. DO NOT let "NO-LEAD" work for any longer than 20minutes. Then REMOVE the dissolved lead with a patch soaked with "WIPE-OUT" or "PATCH-OUT"

3. Re-apply "NO-LEAD" to any remaining lead residue.

Brushing is not necessary. "NO-LEAD" should be applied to all areas of the firearm where lead has built up. Do not let it set longer than 20min.
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Well I have never tried wipe-out or patch-out, and im not sure if I will buy any.

So here is what I did.

Initial cleaning: I cleaned the cylinders with slip 2000 carbon killer, which is supposed to remove lead as well as carbon. I follow the directions, scrubbed each cylinder with a brush, ran some patches through, then let it sit for about 10min. Then ran some dry patches to leave it clean and dry for the no-lead. It was clean except for the lead rings.

NO-LEAD: I opened the no lead, stinky stuff. soaked a patch, and swabbed each cylinder several times and let it sit for 10min. came back, dried it out, no change. I tried it again, swabbed, let it sit 20min, still no change. they I ran dry patches to clean out the no-lead.

Follow up: I then cleaned with slip 2000 carbon killer again. Scrubbed the cylinders, ran patches, let it soak. Wiped it out with dry patches.

I don't want to be too hard on no-lead, especially as I did not have the specified products to follow it up with. but I struggle to see how that could make a significant difference. And in all fairness I have yet to find a good cleaning product for lead removal.

This pic is AFTER the cleaning process described, which included 2 applications of the no-lead product.

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Rob228 said:
I've had pretty good results with a Lewis Lead Remover and JB bore paste.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...ead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx
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I keep meaning to get the lewis lead remover kit, last couple times I looked they did not have the sizes I needed. the 9mm, 38/357 kit has been out of stock every time I have looked for it. I think I requested to be notified when it comes back in stock, but have not gotten a notification yet and its been over months.

I have JB-bore paste and bore bright, and they do work well, and I believe they are bore safe when used as directed. With that said I do consider them to be more on the aggressive side of my gun cleaning products, and would prefer to not have to use them on a regular bases.
 
Shadow9mm said:
NO-LEAD: I opened the no lead, stinky stuff. soaked a patch, and swabbed each cylinder several times and let it sit for 10min. came back, dried it out, no change. I tried it again, swabbed, let it sit 20min, still no change. they I ran dry patches to clean out the no-lead.
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Interesting. I have some older No-Lead that came as two separate components that have to be mixed. I'll have to look at the bottles, but if I recall correctly, the instructions say to let it sit for an hour. The current crop of No-Lead says 20 minutes. I can tell you that what I have performs as advertised. The lead turns to grayish-black flakes that just patch out. I apply it with a loose-fitting patch, so the surface is sloppy-wet with it, and not just a thin coating as a tight patch would leave.

My recollection is they had the two-part version after an earlier one-part version kept outgassing one of the components (probably hydrogen peroxide or something similar) and becoming weak. You might call and ask them about it.

The compatibility thing is probably just that they've tested it with Wipe Out and won't guarantee there will be no unwanted reactions with other cleaners. I've not had a problem, though I do use carb cleaner to be sure the metal is exposed and free of oils and rust inhibitors and the like. Another thing you can do is run a clean, dry chamber brush through a couple of times to roughen the surface of the lead. That will maximize the surface area exposed to the No-Lead for reaction.

If it still doesn't work after that, I'd call the maker.

The Lewis Lead Remover (I have them in several sizes) uses a bronze screen mesh to scrape lead off. It's the same principle as using strands from copper Chore Boy pads wound around an undersized bore brush, except the nut on the screw that holds the rubber support spacer in the Lewis device can be tightened to scrape harder. This still leaves surface traces as neither the Lewis nor the Chore Boy strands can get down into the inside bottom corners of the lands. If you are going to use it, I suggest first patching the bore with a penetrating lead remover, like Shooter's Choice Lead Remover, and letting it sit overnight before using either method. That makes the lead scrape off and lift away from the bore more completely.
 
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