Sever throat erosion can bbl be saved

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Ironworker

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Rem 700 hart bbl 26" long 1.200 x4'' then tapers to .913 . Length is 26".Its chambered in 6x284..Original gun smith says it has sever throat erosion. Can I have a 3"(or what ever it takes) cut off it and re chamber it to 6 BR or some other 6mm cartridge ? What are my options besides replacing the bbl. This rifle still produces under 1/2 moa.I want to get all the life I can out of this bbl .
 
I agree. If you're still happy with the accuracy you're getting I wouldn't do anything to it.

When accuracy finally drops off to an unacceptable level then you can look at different solutions, but it might be better to just get another barrel rather than spending money on one that's already had a lot of wear put on it.
 
Something is not right, I have 1000snds of rounds through my 6/284 and show very little erosion, this is the second chamber for this gun it started life as a 6mm rem in a factory Ruger M77, I think that I would get a second opinion, I have used hart barrels for years they make a fine barrel and they are tough, stainless does not erode as fast as chrome molly.
 
Well its got 1,000 + rnds through it. Soon it will be shot out.
Click to expand...

....hmmmm ....... when it stops shooting under 1 MOA, have a different smith look at it. That one seems to have a different idea of "severe" than Webster's.... I think he may be looking to do some work, necessary or not.
 
6/284's are noted for throat erosion. When accuracy degrades the barrel ,with that taper, is toast & must be replaced given erosion will be for several inches.
 
I built a 300 Win Mag on a Model 70 action for 1000 yard matches. I started out with a 29 inch barrel with the intent of "setting back" the barrel as the throat went south. I only cut about 1/8 in. at a time, figuring when I got to the point I couldnt use the thread the rest of the barrel was gone.

It worked.
 
I have a friend in Idaho that shoots a 6mm-06 (very similar situation to the 6mm-284 in regards to erosion), and he used to joke that barrel life was easy to calculate: 1,000 rounds, then rebarrel. Yes, he probably could have gotten 1,100 or 1,200, or maybe even 1,300 rounds out of it, but when accuracy started to go it went fast, and he wanted to be spot on for long-range rockchuck hunting. A bore scope will tell you if your barrel needs to be replaced or just set back. If you are concerned with accuracy, rebarrel it. If you just want to switch to another chambering, setting it back will require completely removing the chamber area due to the large shoulder on the 6mm-284 being larger than standard head size (.473"). If you have to go that far, you might as well get a new barrel.

And not to short sell Hart, thay make very fine barrels and are the sweetheart of many benchrest shooters, but their barrels are high priced compared to other comparable quality barrels. Look at PacNor, McGowen, or Shilen for a replacement.
 
With 1/2 MOA I would be over joyed, unless as mentioned you are a Benchrest shooter. That's hard to beat.

My Bro.-in law has a pre 67 Model 70 Winchester in 264 Win. mag. It has severe throat erosion ever since I met him, and that was 42 years ago.
He has shot numerous big game animals, some at very long range. It may not be a problem. He claims to have won a benchrest match with it, but that one is hard to swallow. It still has the same barrel on it, and it's not been repaired.

You could have a lot of work done on it costing a lot of money and end up with a gun that is less accurate.

I hate to repeat this old saying, but if it ain't broke...............
 
Before you replace ANYTHING, read this.

I have a rifle that I bought from my wife's uncle. It is on a Sako action, chambered in .220 Swift, with a 30 inch Hart barrel, Canjar single set trigger, and is in a McMillan stock.

I looked down the bore and saw blackness right in front of the chamber--that all important throat/leade area. The rifle had actually started to keyhole bullets at 50 yards.

Now, my wife got an Outer's Foul-Out for me at Christmastime. I decided to try it out on the Swift. I installed it, following the instructions, plugged it in and let it run for 30 minutes.

I poured the solution out and removed the rod, and decided to run a tight patch through the bore first, intending to follow my normal cleaning routine afterward. I started a patch on a jag down the bore--and the rod stopped dead. Wouldn't move forward at all.

Now, I knew that I had a properly sized patch--I had used them literally hundreds of times before. With that in mind, I decided that it needed a bit of assistance. I broke out the rubber-faced mallet, and started tapping on the end of the handle.

I heard a fairly loud "CRACK!" coming from inside the barrel! The rod moved freely afterward.

What came out of the muzzle was an almost PERFECT sleeve of rock-hard carbon fouling, shot through with yellow copper streaks!!!

I ran another clean patch on the jag--it just flowed down that bore like grease on glass. I then looked into the bore, and it looked like a mirror. Best part is that the throat and leade looked almost brand new.

Try a Foul Out first. You can use it on your other guns, as well, and you might save some money.
 
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