Setting dies correctly...
- Thread starter Hammer76
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condor bravo
New member
You are apparently asking about the die sequence for the four station 550 press. While not always the same depending on caliber and other factors, the standard sequence is the sizing/decapping die in station #1. The powder/flaring die then normally follows in station #2, but that can vary. But to use the fail-safe powder bar return feature with the powder die, it must be used at station 2. I use several caliber set-ups with the powder die at station #3, with station 2 being used for an additional sizing die. But returning to usual sequence, station 3 is used for bullet seating and station 4 for crimping. If seating and crimping are done with the same die, that can be done at 3, leaving 4 vacant.
Dies are pretty much an individual choice and there may not be a best choice. Some may suggest not using a certain die brand but in general all are good.
I won't offer any load suggestions for the .40s since I am not particularly pleased with mine. So probably as good a place to start as any is the loading manual.
Dies are pretty much an individual choice and there may not be a best choice. Some may suggest not using a certain die brand but in general all are good.
I won't offer any load suggestions for the .40s since I am not particularly pleased with mine. So probably as good a place to start as any is the loading manual.
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Did you inherit his books?? That would be the best place to start, read all you can BEFORE you even start to get equipment. There is a sticky for those starting in reloading, please read it.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171
Good luck and stay safe.
Jim
If you are asking about how to set up (i.e., adjust) the individual dies, the Dillon Precision Manual for the 550B is the place to start. Here is a link to it:
http://dillonhelp.com/Dillon Manual PDFs/dillon_rl_550b_manual_may_2007.pdf
The home page on the Dillon website (www.dillonprecision.com) has tabs that you can click for videos that are very informative.
There are multiple videos on YouTube, some of which are quite helpful. The link below is one that is straightforward and practical:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lvck487Vybg&list=PLmuyYFXVcLouP-YWbSX3Krd9K-PDGsjWi&index=1
Hope this helps. Best wishes.
http://dillonhelp.com/Dillon Manual PDFs/dillon_rl_550b_manual_may_2007.pdf
The home page on the Dillon website (www.dillonprecision.com) has tabs that you can click for videos that are very informative.
There are multiple videos on YouTube, some of which are quite helpful. The link below is one that is straightforward and practical:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lvck487Vybg&list=PLmuyYFXVcLouP-YWbSX3Krd9K-PDGsjWi&index=1
Hope this helps. Best wishes.
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condor bravo
New member
Yes, per the above posts, at the very least call Dillon and get their instruction pamphlet for the 550 if you do not have it. It will also display all the parts in case any are needed (or eventually needed). Setting up the machine is fairly intuitive but perhaps not completely. Some assistance in particular might be beneficial in adjusting the powder drop tube for proper flaring with the powder die system.
But when setting up, adjust each die station separately rather than trying to do so in a progressive manner. I would suggest first adjusting the powder charge and flaring die with unprimed cases before moving on to the other die adjustments. When all seems good, cycle your first rounds through to completion single stage before continuing with full progressive. The powder system will probably be the most sensitive and critical with the priming system second.
But when setting up, adjust each die station separately rather than trying to do so in a progressive manner. I would suggest first adjusting the powder charge and flaring die with unprimed cases before moving on to the other die adjustments. When all seems good, cycle your first rounds through to completion single stage before continuing with full progressive. The powder system will probably be the most sensitive and critical with the priming system second.
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Do all die sets come with the appropriate shell holders or are they separate? The only one that I've found that does include them are the Lee die sets. Another thing I was wondering is that the primer seating cup is currently setup for .357. Does this need changed? Thank you all for the info. The reloader is a RL550, not 550B. The .357 load data says the primer is a wspm.
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condor bravo
New member
Late addendum:
***Error in part of following post; see explanation at end before reading. Post #9 jogged my memory.
Primers for the .40 are small pistol, same as for the .357 so you are good there. Many die sets, like the RCBS that I mostly use, do not come with the shell holder. Lee is an exception. Since you have the 550 rather than the B, that is somewhat of a disadvantage since it cannot use separate "tool heads" for easy caliber conversions. But otherwise it will work fine. If desired you can get a 550B conversion kit which just amounts to a new frame that accepts tool heads, and you transfer everything else from the 550 to the new frame. An advantage when loading for several calibers to facilitate changing dies for additional calibers. The dies are set up permanently in the tool head and do not need to be readjusted for each change over.
Probably the reason why shell holders are not often included with die sets is due to the number of calibers using the same shell holder, and would increase the price of dies if each set included a shell holder. For instance consider the large number of belted mags using the same holder or the number of calibers using the .30-06 shell holder. If you have 20 such calibers, do not need 20 shell holders.
***BIG CORRECTION, DISREGARD PORTION OF ABOVE. Was thinking of the 450 that does not have tool heads. The 550 DOES have tool heads; conversion for that purpose not needed.
***Error in part of following post; see explanation at end before reading. Post #9 jogged my memory.
Primers for the .40 are small pistol, same as for the .357 so you are good there. Many die sets, like the RCBS that I mostly use, do not come with the shell holder. Lee is an exception. Since you have the 550 rather than the B, that is somewhat of a disadvantage since it cannot use separate "tool heads" for easy caliber conversions. But otherwise it will work fine. If desired you can get a 550B conversion kit which just amounts to a new frame that accepts tool heads, and you transfer everything else from the 550 to the new frame. An advantage when loading for several calibers to facilitate changing dies for additional calibers. The dies are set up permanently in the tool head and do not need to be readjusted for each change over.
Probably the reason why shell holders are not often included with die sets is due to the number of calibers using the same shell holder, and would increase the price of dies if each set included a shell holder. For instance consider the large number of belted mags using the same holder or the number of calibers using the .30-06 shell holder. If you have 20 such calibers, do not need 20 shell holders.
***BIG CORRECTION, DISREGARD PORTION OF ABOVE. Was thinking of the 450 that does not have tool heads. The 550 DOES have tool heads; conversion for that purpose not needed.
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When you order a caliber conversion for the 550 it will include the shell plate, locator pins and powder funnel.
Dillon dies work real well so go with them. Set the sizing die to touch the shell plate, then back it off 1/8 th turn. Set the seating die the same way or until you have the bullet and crimp where you want it.
The next die is a taper crimp. Just crimp enough to eliminate the bell you did on the powder die.
It's that simple.
Good luck and good shooting.
Dillon dies work real well so go with them. Set the sizing die to touch the shell plate, then back it off 1/8 th turn. Set the seating die the same way or until you have the bullet and crimp where you want it.
The next die is a taper crimp. Just crimp enough to eliminate the bell you did on the powder die.
It's that simple.
Good luck and good shooting.
I do not recommend a new reloader go from setting still to a full blown progressive press.
Then there is the die adjustment and the gap between the top of the shell plate/holder and bottom of the die. 1/4 turn of the die with 14 threads per inch makes for a gap of about .0085". I know that means nothing to most but to me it means a gap of .009" between the top of the shell plate and bottom of the die means
I am sizing cases for a chamber that is at or near the length of a no-go length chamber. I want nothing to do with causing a reloader to require therapy meaning if there is a total disregard for die adjustment between the die and shell plate/holder the reoader is going to require theory: BECAUSE
the cases will not allow the bolt to close if the chamber has a go-gage length chamber.Then there is the 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn or the 3/4 turn, when I find it necessary to crank the die down an additional 3/4 turn below contact I know it is time to get rid of the cases and start on cases that do not have so much resistance to sizing. OR! consider annealing.
F. Guffey
kilimanjaro
New member
I'm presuming you haven't reloading before, but have some knowledge of the process.
Call up the Dillon folks and request a copy of the manual for your press. You'll have one by return mail.
Instructions how to set up your dies are in the manual, and very easy to understand. It's not difficult. You have to set your decapping pin to run all the way down to the primer hole and push the primer out of the brass. You have to set the resizing die to run down the entire length of the brass case, unless you are neck sizing rifle rounds.
The powder die is set by turning the powder drop screw to the charge you want, and weighing each charge until you get the right charge. Then you check about a dozen more to be sure it's correct and not changing.
The bullet seat die is set by placing a loaded commercial round, which you have checked for overall length with a micrometer (you need one), and meets the OAL specified in your loading manual (you need one of these, too). Run the seating die down to contact and set the lockscrew. Load a few rounds and measure with micrometer to check OAL. You need to use the same bullet type for OAL setting as you are loading. Don't set the length with a flat nose bullet and load with a round nose bullet.
Don't forget to lubricate all your brass first, or you'll have stuck brass in your resizing die.
It takes about an hour to properly set up the dies. You might want to consider a removable tool head that you can keep on a stand, and swap out your die set ups when changing calibers. If you're just doing one caliber, you don't need to do that.
Each reloading session, you need to check weigh and measure the first five or ten cartridges to ensure the die settings have not been changed. Powder charge is crucial, fill some cases, empty them onto your scale (you need a scale, too), and check the weight of each charge. When you're satisfied the charges are consistent, and correct, then seat your bullets and load the complete round. Check these rounds for OAL. If to specification, and consistent, you're good to go for cranking out another session.
Don't watch TV while you're reloading. A music radio is OK. Take the time to do it right, you'll enjoy it a lot.
Dillon makes a good digital scale, runs about $200. Micrometers are about $30, the RCBS mike is fine.
You will need a caliber kit from Dillon to set up your shell holder and indexing pins. That's about $40
Call up the Dillon folks and request a copy of the manual for your press. You'll have one by return mail.
Instructions how to set up your dies are in the manual, and very easy to understand. It's not difficult. You have to set your decapping pin to run all the way down to the primer hole and push the primer out of the brass. You have to set the resizing die to run down the entire length of the brass case, unless you are neck sizing rifle rounds.
The powder die is set by turning the powder drop screw to the charge you want, and weighing each charge until you get the right charge. Then you check about a dozen more to be sure it's correct and not changing.
The bullet seat die is set by placing a loaded commercial round, which you have checked for overall length with a micrometer (you need one), and meets the OAL specified in your loading manual (you need one of these, too). Run the seating die down to contact and set the lockscrew. Load a few rounds and measure with micrometer to check OAL. You need to use the same bullet type for OAL setting as you are loading. Don't set the length with a flat nose bullet and load with a round nose bullet.
Don't forget to lubricate all your brass first, or you'll have stuck brass in your resizing die.
It takes about an hour to properly set up the dies. You might want to consider a removable tool head that you can keep on a stand, and swap out your die set ups when changing calibers. If you're just doing one caliber, you don't need to do that.
Each reloading session, you need to check weigh and measure the first five or ten cartridges to ensure the die settings have not been changed. Powder charge is crucial, fill some cases, empty them onto your scale (you need a scale, too), and check the weight of each charge. When you're satisfied the charges are consistent, and correct, then seat your bullets and load the complete round. Check these rounds for OAL. If to specification, and consistent, you're good to go for cranking out another session.
Don't watch TV while you're reloading. A music radio is OK. Take the time to do it right, you'll enjoy it a lot.
Dillon makes a good digital scale, runs about $200. Micrometers are about $30, the RCBS mike is fine.
You will need a caliber kit from Dillon to set up your shell holder and indexing pins. That's about $40
Hammer76,
Congratulations. You now have a Dillon. But that means you now need to know it's differences from other presses.
Not relevant to the Dillon. The Dillon uses its own shell plate plus particular size retaining buttons for each case head size. Standard shell holders cannot be used in the Dillon in any way. You will have to buy the 40 S&W shell plate and buttons from Dillon. Buying the RL 550B 40 S&W conversion kit will get you all the necessary parts and is the most economical approach. If you intend to load other calibers, you have the option to buy a separate tool head for your .40 S&W dies, too. This lets you leave the dies set up on the tool head for easy swapping out with another tool head with other dies that were loading a different chambering.
Use Dillon dies for three reasons: One is that the rotating shell holder plate has a little more wiggle room than standard shell holders. This is on purpose, for tolerance stacking reasons. The cartridges self-center in the dies anyway, so it introduces no problems. However, it does mean you need a sizing die with a more generous mouth radius than some makes have. I have accidentally crushed cases using a Lee sizing die in my 550 because it didn't have a wide enough mouth to line up. Dillon dies have the appropriate mouth radius for their machines.
Second, the Dillon pistol sizing dies are also slightly narrower than most. This is to force even the thinnest mouth brass to size adequately to function properly. I used to be unable to resize R-P .45 Auto brass enough to hold onto a bullet more than a couple of times in my old Lyman carbide die. After that it got too springy to size down enough in that die. My Dillon .45 Auto die has no problem with R-P cases at all. Dillon does this so the progressive loading sequence is not interrupted nor is faulty ammo produced accidentally, This is an issue in progressive loaders because you are not handling each round individually at each step and so may not notice the problem.
Third, the case flare on a pistol round is applied by the powder measure drop tube/operating rod in a Dillon. Unless you have a whole after-market powder measure system attached, the Dillon measure will require their parts and their .40 S&W drop tube for the flaring and dispensing of powder. Someone else's expander die cannot be used with the Dillon powder measure unless made specifically for it, which competing standard expander dies are not. This is another reason for buying a Dillon caliber conversion kit. It includes the right drop tube for your caliber for their powder measure.
Seating and crimp dies could be any make you choose, but since you will buy a die set rather than the individual dies to save money, just get the Dillon set and use theirs. Between the caliber conversion kit and die set, you will be out about $120 with S&H, but I think you will find it worth it for the speed with which you can produce hundreds of rounds of ammo to get lots of practice.
One other thing you can do is send the press to Dillon, ordering the die set and conversion kit at the same time, and they will check the press out, replace any worn parts at no charge, and ship it back to you already set up with the new dies and conversion kit in place. Dillon stuff is not inexpensive, but their lifetime warranty is no bull, even if you got the press from someone else. You can call their toll-free customer service to have them talk you through any adjustment or other issue any time at no charge. Their service is second to none. That's part of what you are paying for with their gear.
Congratulations. You now have a Dillon. But that means you now need to know it's differences from other presses.
Hammer76 said:
Not relevant to the Dillon. The Dillon uses its own shell plate plus particular size retaining buttons for each case head size. Standard shell holders cannot be used in the Dillon in any way. You will have to buy the 40 S&W shell plate and buttons from Dillon. Buying the RL 550B 40 S&W conversion kit will get you all the necessary parts and is the most economical approach. If you intend to load other calibers, you have the option to buy a separate tool head for your .40 S&W dies, too. This lets you leave the dies set up on the tool head for easy swapping out with another tool head with other dies that were loading a different chambering.
Hammer76 said:
Use Dillon dies for three reasons: One is that the rotating shell holder plate has a little more wiggle room than standard shell holders. This is on purpose, for tolerance stacking reasons. The cartridges self-center in the dies anyway, so it introduces no problems. However, it does mean you need a sizing die with a more generous mouth radius than some makes have. I have accidentally crushed cases using a Lee sizing die in my 550 because it didn't have a wide enough mouth to line up. Dillon dies have the appropriate mouth radius for their machines.
Second, the Dillon pistol sizing dies are also slightly narrower than most. This is to force even the thinnest mouth brass to size adequately to function properly. I used to be unable to resize R-P .45 Auto brass enough to hold onto a bullet more than a couple of times in my old Lyman carbide die. After that it got too springy to size down enough in that die. My Dillon .45 Auto die has no problem with R-P cases at all. Dillon does this so the progressive loading sequence is not interrupted nor is faulty ammo produced accidentally, This is an issue in progressive loaders because you are not handling each round individually at each step and so may not notice the problem.
Third, the case flare on a pistol round is applied by the powder measure drop tube/operating rod in a Dillon. Unless you have a whole after-market powder measure system attached, the Dillon measure will require their parts and their .40 S&W drop tube for the flaring and dispensing of powder. Someone else's expander die cannot be used with the Dillon powder measure unless made specifically for it, which competing standard expander dies are not. This is another reason for buying a Dillon caliber conversion kit. It includes the right drop tube for your caliber for their powder measure.
Seating and crimp dies could be any make you choose, but since you will buy a die set rather than the individual dies to save money, just get the Dillon set and use theirs. Between the caliber conversion kit and die set, you will be out about $120 with S&H, but I think you will find it worth it for the speed with which you can produce hundreds of rounds of ammo to get lots of practice.
One other thing you can do is send the press to Dillon, ordering the die set and conversion kit at the same time, and they will check the press out, replace any worn parts at no charge, and ship it back to you already set up with the new dies and conversion kit in place. Dillon stuff is not inexpensive, but their lifetime warranty is no bull, even if you got the press from someone else. You can call their toll-free customer service to have them talk you through any adjustment or other issue any time at no charge. Their service is second to none. That's part of what you are paying for with their gear.
I visited Dillon, they said they recommend seating one position and crimping on another. I explained to them I was not starting over on another cabinet of dies, so I made it clear I did not need their press, it was about that time they explained to me it was OK to use my dies. At the time I had two Piggy Back press with 5 positions.
F. Guffey
I've used a lot of different dies, bullet pullers and other odds and ends in my 550 over time. But I wind up drawing at least some on past experience to watch the sizing step for case alignment or to use a different powder dispensing system than theirs or to do non-standard operations. The OP doesn't give the impression he has the background to cover those bases if he's asking about shell holders and die adjustment technique for a 550B. And since he has no dies at all in 40 S&W at this time, I think his first rodeo will go easier on him if he sticks with Dillon equipment and lets them talk him through any problems. After he's more familiar with the whole thing, then it will be a lot easier for him to see how to go off the reservation where he needs to.
Hammer76,
A good general resource is the Lee Help Video collection. If you look at their die setup instructions they cover all the basics well, with only a few things that will apply only to their equipment and with references to shell holders not applying to the Dillon.
Hammer76,
A good general resource is the Lee Help Video collection. If you look at their die setup instructions they cover all the basics well, with only a few things that will apply only to their equipment and with references to shell holders not applying to the Dillon.
Question for you as I'm a little confused.
Are you loading for .357 S&W Magnum, .40 S&W or something else?
Do all die sets come with the appropriate shell holders or are they separate?
Die sets do not come with them, Dillon's caliber change kits are a set of dies & the shellholder & locating pins. If you buy someone else's dies you'll also need the Dillon 550 shell plate & a set of the locator pins.
Another thing I was wondering is that the primer seating cup is currently setup for .357. Does this need changed?
Primer seating is not caliber dependent, but primer size size dependent. If the small primers are whats needed use the small primer seater, if large then swap to the large.
The reloader is a RL550, not 550B.
The only differences between the RL550 & the RL 550b is the electronic buzzer for low primer volume & the powder measure mechanism. The actual dies, & primer feeds are identical.
The .357 load data says the primer is a wspm.
wspm = Winchester Small Pistol Magnum. This means you'll need the small primer cup & seater.
You really, really need to download this FREE Dillon manual for the RL550 & RL 550b.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/dillon_rl_550b_manual_may_2007.pdf
Are you loading for .357 S&W Magnum, .40 S&W or something else?
Do all die sets come with the appropriate shell holders or are they separate?
Die sets do not come with them, Dillon's caliber change kits are a set of dies & the shellholder & locating pins. If you buy someone else's dies you'll also need the Dillon 550 shell plate & a set of the locator pins.
Another thing I was wondering is that the primer seating cup is currently setup for .357. Does this need changed?
Primer seating is not caliber dependent, but primer size size dependent. If the small primers are whats needed use the small primer seater, if large then swap to the large.
The reloader is a RL550, not 550B.
The only differences between the RL550 & the RL 550b is the electronic buzzer for low primer volume & the powder measure mechanism. The actual dies, & primer feeds are identical.
The .357 load data says the primer is a wspm.
wspm = Winchester Small Pistol Magnum. This means you'll need the small primer cup & seater.
You really, really need to download this FREE Dillon manual for the RL550 & RL 550b.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/dillon_rl_550b_manual_may_2007.pdf