Another point, revolvers will function exactly the same with any and all the ammo you can stuff in them. Autos will not.
Shorts, CB caps, Hivel LR, shotshells, the revolver cares not. All that changes is the report and the point of impact (ok, recoil will change a little, but in a .22, it doesn't matter).
Feed an autoloader something it doesn't like, and it doesn't work. And while most of the better quality autos are fairly omnivorous, they are not totally, and some are downright finicky. Was at the range one time with a friend, shooting a S&W Model 41. This is a high dollar gun, considered the Cadillac of .22 autos. And it was superbly accurate. However, it was misfiring often with the cheap CCI Blazers he was shooting.
I finished the box for him, shooting them all (including his misfires) in a Ruger Single Six, Ruger Mk I, Browning Challenger, and Stoeger Luger. No misfires at all. This is not a slam on the S&W, just an observation that his individual gun was picky.
Revolvers may seem more complicated inside compared to autos, but they really aren't, just different. Neither gun requires the amount of maintenance some people seem to think they do. Unlike military type pistols, they do not need, and are not designed to be detail stripped regularly. Even field stripping is seldom necessary to ensure reliable functioning. They can run fine for decades (hundreds of thousands of rounds, potentially) if you only clean what you can easily reach. Some lube is needed, but not much of that either.
IF you want the most rugged (abuse/neglect tolerant) .22 you can get, I would say a Ruger Single Six, in stainless steel. Fewer parts than a DA gun, and rugged as a granite block.
As an alternate idea, if you don't need a rapid follow up shot, you might consider a T/C Contender with a .22LR barrel. Simplest mechanism, (least to go wrong), and can be finished very corrosion resistant if you wish. Also gives you the option of many different calibers with just a barrel change.
And they scope pretty easily too.