Selecting a J-Frame (two to choose from)

GunsnRovers

New member
I am looking at two J-Frames at a local shop. Both are in 98~99% condition and are very tight. Both are the same price, $369.

One is a Model 442 with a slight cylinder ring.

The other is a Model 36 which is just a skosh cleaner.

I lean towards the M36 as it suits my conservative nature, but wanted some feedback.

My goal, by the end of this year (before the new PRK laws enter effect) is to add a J frame and a K frame to my two N frames. After this year, I won't be buying any guns while I am a PRK resident.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
It depends on what your plans are for this piece.

Range shooter/ belt carry piece/home defense I'd go with the mod. 36

Can you carry a concealed firearm in the great PRK ?

If this would be more of a cc piece I'd pick the 442.

In fact thats exactly what I did.

:D
 

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no CCW here

I am in West Los Angeles where we will remain for a little while longer as we build up some finances. We're living here cheap so we're taking advantage of the higher salaries. No chance in hell of me carrying legally.

The M36 in question is blue. The shop does have a M60 for the same price, but I love blue revolvers. I know it's not practical, but... :cool:

Jeff
 
All three (M36, M60, and M442) are good guns. I would opt for the M60 first (which I did already), then the M36, and lastly the 442. I prefer a hammered version for precise single action shoots. My dealer has a nice M 638 I might consider soon.
 
"I know it's not practical, but..."

Come again and say what?

I've carried blued revolvers pretty much exclusively on and off for the better part of 20 years -- ankle carry, IWB, belt holster, pocket holster, and shoulder holster.

Never had rusting problems as long as I treated the gun correctly.

I don't own a single stainless, chrome, or nickle-plated revolver.
 
What Mike said bout blued guns.

Plus I have done it longer by close to three times.
Tropics, little salty islands etc.

No stainless or silly putty in the house.

Sam
 
thanks

I agree on the blued guns. I guess that was just a pre-emptive strike against the stainless arguement.

I'm going to swing by the shop again Tuesday or Wednesday and make up my mind.

There's just something about a blued Chief's Special that just calls out to me.

Jeff
 
Well, nobody can really argue against the model 36 being the "original" modern little S&W snubnose ...

If the 36 is much older than the 442 I'd want it given a clean bill of health from a gunsmith before I'd choose it over a newer 442.

All things being equal, though ...

The carbon steel framed 36 might be a little more friendly to the shooter, if the shooter was recoil sensitive. The 36 can be hammer cocked, if that's important to you ... Two-edged sword, there, though, if you ever used it for defensive purposes and the lighter single action trigger was tripped "accidently", or negligently ...

The 442 has an aluminum frame, so only the cylinder & barrel require the occasional wipe down to keep finger prints & skin oils from affecting the bluing. It's a little lighter, and therefore the shooter would feel a little more of the recoil impulse. It's double action-only, so the shooter must have decent trigger control not to pull shots off target when using the heavier trigger ...

I don't see how either would be a "bad" choice. It sounds like you've already made up your mind, anyway ;) Nothing wrong with that ...
 
The Perfect Pick

The "vintage" Smith & Wesson .38 caliber model 60
"Chief's Special" really works well for me; here in the
hot and humid climate of central DixieLand!:cool: :D

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
Mike...

"I don't own a single stainless, chrome, or nickle-plated revolver."

I agree with you on the chrome and nickle. But as far as the stainless, well, let's just say that we agree to disagree on that point (I was going to make another comment but I figured that some of the less aware people on this forum might not realize that I was just pulling yer leg :D ).

I recent problem I had with my Browning HP underscores my preference for SS. I am normally very careful with storage, especially long-term, for all my firearms. But I was not as careful as I should have been with the HP and ended up with a small spot of rust on the front edge of the slide. I caught it and have repaired most of the damge, but I doubt I would have had as much of a problem with a SS gun.

As you and C. R. and a few others have pointed out, simple precautions can prevent this easily. And I still like blue guns also. If i can find a M36 to go with my M60, I will get it.
 
fastbolt...

"The 36 can be hammer cocked, if that's important to you ... Two-edged sword, there, though, if you ever used it for defensive purposes and the lighter single action trigger was tripped "accidently", or negligently ..."

It gives you an option. Most people can be more precise with single action than double action. If you have the time (and need) to take a slow accurate shot then having an exposed hammer can be a plus.

As far as your point on "accidentally" firing in single-action mode goes, you may be correct. But one should never (almost never?) cock a DA revolver and place your finger on the trigger unless you are in the process of taking a shot. If you are just in a "defensive mode" you should keep the hammer down and finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot.

In spite of my comments I think that your points are well-taken and should be seriously considered by anyone who carries a DA revolver for self-defense.
 
Given your location (CA)

And your statement about not buying any more guns after jan 03 I would suggest you buy them BOTH. J frames aill always be in demand in the most restrictive states and the most usefull as well. You may find you will have definate uese for both these little guns. Heck buy a SP101 & a Dective special too if you can find them. You can never have too many snubbies.
 
FPrice,

Thanks ... and yep, you're right ... the thumb cocking of defensive revolvers issue isn't an easy one for which to provide a "right" answer ...

During most CCW qualification courses we often see people with revolvers taking the time to cock their weapons for each shot ... at 2 yards. Since we're only checking their "proficiency" as part of the required permit course process mandated by our state, and we don't "teach" shooting techniques or tactics to civilians, we don't try and change this. We do mention, however ... just for their consideration sometime ... that they ought to think about whether they might have the time to perform separate thumb-cocking actions for each shot in an immediate, deadly force confrontation at that distance. This doesn't even begin to consider whether they really want to extend their arms forward toward a deadly force attacker only a yard or so away ...

We get more than a few puzzled expressions in response.

Naturally, it's to their advantage to use the sights and cock their revolvers for precise shooting at farther distances, although the farthest we require they demonstrate their proficiency is about 12 yards. Not all that many self defense shootings out past 7 yards, anyway ...

Another thing that constantly happens is that people put their fingers on the trigger of the weapons before they're ready to actually shoot. This happens with both L/E & civilians. This is my most frequent range instruction ... finger off the trigger ... after someone has finished their course of fire, and they're covering the "threat area" while scanning for more "threats". It's just too easy for the trigger to be pressed with the occurrence of an involuntary sympathetic muscular contraction. A single action trigger is lighter than people under stress expect, especially if their finger is already on the trigger. People that own weapons for defensive purposes often just won't train enough to instill good safety & shooting habits, and make sure they develop their skills to the point that they're able to utilize them under stress. This probably hasn't changed since we had flintlocks, though ...

Don't get me wrong ... I practice using cocked weapons, both pistols and revolvers, to maintain my trigger control for "precision" shots. It's just that cocking a revolver or traditional DA/SA pistol does present a heightened potential for discharge if the lighter trigger is pressed ... especially unintentially ... accidently .... negligently ... or however else you want to call it. You can be sure a court will have no trouble determining a word for it, though ...

I also agree buying both S&W J frames is a good idea ;) I like my SP-101, 649 Bodyguard and my 642-1 ...
 
got the M36

I bought the M36-7 today. I pick it up in 10 days. It's NIB and unfired.

Thanks for everyones comments. The 442 was nice, but I'm not certain I'll really notice the weight difference on my hip. In the pocket, I can really see how it would have an advantage.

Can't wait to hit the range and try it out.

Jeff
 
NIB M36-7 ...

Latest manufacturing advantages, AND owning a bit of Americana when it comes to snubnoses ...

Good choice ...

Practice well.
 
I have a couple of 640's and one 442-1. For pocket carry the lighter 442 is much nicer in my rosen pocket holster. You should be aware there are 442 that are only stressed for standard velocity and 442-1 that are stressed for +P. At least I think the -1 represents the +P. But the sure way to tell is the raised portion of frame in front of cylinder release - this raised portion is about a .1" wide and maybe an inch or so long and is in vertical position. It replaces the part of frame that was drilled and small stud inserted to stop cylinder from basically dropping out. I think all modification does is perform same function with less weaking of frame since it is intergal with frame - tribute to computer driven machines I guess. Obviously being stressed for +P is nice. I use standard ammo for practice and carry +P SWC lead HP in 158gr- sometimes called FBI load, I believe, from old days of FBI use. You might want to give smith a call to get more info.
 
M36-7

Anyone know the manufacturer period for a M36-7? Was that the last of the series? It's firing pin on hammer and I don't think it uses MIM parts, but I don't know for certain. They appear to be case hardened. The barrel is not pinned. Serial # isCBH06XX.

I have about 250 rounds of Nyclad 125gr HP for it. That should last a while. I will have to pick up a round that approximate it for practice. I'm still bummed the Nyclad is going away as I love it in my Hi-Power as well.

I shoot 158gr SWCHP +P's out of my M28 (I know that's on the light side), but I'm quick and accurate with it so it's a comfort level. I don't think I will like shooting those out of the M36.

Jeff
 
Jeff,
You will find that many people prefer the 158 grain LSWHP +P for defensive use in the M36. I used to use 125 grain Nyclad HP in my 3" M36 but switched to the 158 LSWHP +P because it was more accurate (and it's street reputation is fairly impressive). The recoil is not bad and the point of impact is very close to the cheap 158 grain LRN at distances in which I am able to hit with the diminutive sights (<20 yards). If you want a good cheap practice load that reproduces the LSWHP's external ballistics, Georgia Arms sells a 158 grain +P semi-wadcutter for about $7 per fifty.

Brian
 
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