Seeking S&W N frame 357mag

S

stubbicatt

New member
Fellas. Years ago I had a Model 19 with the pinned barrel, non recessed cylinders, firing pin on hammer. I had mounted a low magnification Leopold on it. I think it is a L frame. The barrel/cylinder gap opened up twice on me, I returned it to Smith and Wesson and they fixed it twice. I have since learned that I probably should seek a N frame to avoid this occurrence.

I'm looking to replace it, but this time with an N frame with a 4 or 5 inch barrel, with drilled topstrap to accept a scope mount, located under the adjustable sight. I prefer the firing pin on the hammer and pinned barrel if I can find such a thing.

I remember "highway patrolman" and Model 27's, but am not familiar enough with the nomenclature to determine which ones have the drilled topstrap underneath the adjustable sights. Like 27-1, or -5 or whatever it might be.

If you might offer me guidance on which models I should be looking for I'd appreciate your help.
 
If you had a Model 19, you had a K-Frame Smith. I'd sure recommend an L-Frame over the N-Frame in a Smith due to the longer cylinder of the L-Frame. And the L-Frame is plenty rugged for a .357 Magnum diet.


Bob Wright
 
Thanks Bob Wright. As a followup then, which L frame revolvers will be blued finish likely drilled and tapped from the factory, sporting a 5 or 6 inch barrel? It's ok if you don't know, as I surely don't know!

Regards,
Stubb
 
Going to be hard to find either a N or L frame that's been drilled and tapped for a scope mount I just sold a 28-2 six inch barrel, I still have a 686 six barrel and a 19-3 snub nose.
If I remember right there were mounts that used the factory rear sight channel for mounting scope or red dot type.
My favorite is the five inch model 27.
 
I have two Model 585s, which is the designation for the blued gun, one is 4" and the other 6". It is my understanding that those guns that have the rounded sight tang are drilled and tapped.

Not scoping mine, never had occassion to look. But I believe those that have the rounded sight tang also have the frame mounted firing pin.

Bob Wright

Bob Wright
 
A perfect candidate would be a newer production model in stainless already drilled by the factory. It won't have a pinned barrel, but it would be durable and you wouldn't be reducing the value by 75% by drilling it. I don't know if S&W ever made such a model. I don't see any 357s that are drilled on the S&W site.

If you insist on a pinned barrel that means pre-1982 and none were factory drilled for sure. Guns that have been drilled turn up from time to time on Gunbroker and they go cheap because most buyers consider the value ruined by drilling.

The 27 is the top of the line deluxe revolver and if you buy one and drill it please don't tell me. The 28 was the Plain Jane version.
 
Saxon Pig. I do not know as much about this as you do. However the Model 19 I had, purchased in 1998 or 9, had the firing pin on the hammer, and the topstrap was drilled. I believe it had a pinned barrel, but after some reflection, I'm not so sure anymore. For sure it didn't have rebated chambers.

It is easy to determine if it was drilled. Just pop open the cylinder and look at the top strap from inside the frame window and see if there are 3 little holes. They are invisible from the outside, as the rear sight covers that up.

Still looking on Gunbroker. Perhaps I'll find something nice.
 
The L frame was offered in blue (586) and stainless (686). S&W started drilling and tapping them starting with the -4 versions in 1993.
Your early model 19 was drilled at tapped aftermarket. It wasn't until the -7 version that the factory offered it.
The original N frame 27 and 28's were discontinued before factory drill & tap was offered. I don't know if the current Classic series 27 is D&R'd or not.
The 627 ( Stainless version of the 27) was offered with drill and tap starting with the -1 version.

Jim
 
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Pinned barrel and recessed chambers were dropped at same time in 1982. A few transition models were made with or the other still present. If the gun was new in 1998 it was not P&R.
 
All 'L' and 'N' frame Smith and Wesson revolvers have been drilled and tapped for scope mounts since the middle 90s...lf in doubt about a certain gun, simply open cylinder and look at underside of the topstrap. lf you see holes, its drilled and tapped. lf you don't see any, its not..
 
Look at the S&W performance guns , pricey but ya can even order 1 to your specs.

I shoot GP100s 4" & 6" with the Weigand no drill full length mount & the revolver gets kinda heavy shooting off hand with the full underlug/mount/scope combo.

Rite now I have a reddot site mounted on the 6" as far back as possible & it doesn't add as much muzzle heaviness as a traditional scope.

Now before we jump on the weight issues of GPs & L frames the GP weighs only 1/2 oz. more than a comparably equipped L frame , I`ve owned both .

GP
 
GP100Man: Years ago I owned a GP100. It was a nice revolver. Had rubber grips with wooden panels pressed into the sides of them. It was handsome.

No disrespect intended, however, due to my Ruger customer service experience with a SR1911 I purchased last fall, I will not be purchasing anything made by Ruger again, no matter. Hence my decision to stay with Smith and Wesson. But thanks for the suggestion.
 
To put it all in perspective - the guns you will find the most of on the used market:

K Frames ...older ones are the model 19's ( blued or nickel finish)...the newer ones are the model 66's ..( the 6 denotes stainless finish)....

L frames...model 686's ( stainless..) - note the six again..

N frames...model 28's ( the Highway Patrolman had the matte or satin blued finish) -- the model 27's had the Bright Blue or Nickel finish. Model 27's demand a premium in the marketplace ( like Colt Pythons do )....
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686-4's ...started in 1993....( it wasn't until the dash 5's came out that they removed the firing pin from the hammer ) ....so the dash 4's might be your best bet for a search / most affordable option. The N frames ( model 27's and 28's are some of my all time favorite revolvers...but like others said I don't think any of them were tapped..and they'll cost you more than a 686 model.
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I have older versions of the 686 ( a no dash and a dash 1 in 4" and 6" both are very solid guns )...not as nice a gun as the model 27-2 I have in a 4" nickel ...but they will meet your needs.
In looking at S&W book...in the 686 model -- they deleted the Square Butt frame in 1996 ( during the dash 4 engineering series )...( I like the SQ Butt frame a lot more than the Round Butt - Sq Butt fits my hands a lot better ) so be careful as you are looking at different guns.
 
Ive got a 27-2, it's not tapped, just has the adjustabler rear sight. I don't think you would want to drill and tap that hand-checkered top strap as it is one of the appeals along with the recessed cylinder and pinned barrel. I believe that's why they are expensive.

If you can find a 686 I would go that route. Same capabilities but smaller package (N frame can be a bit big for some depending on grips)
 
I have two Model 585s, which is the designation for the blued gun
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Bob, this is NOT a gotcha. I just don't want to confuse the OP. The blued version is 586, not 585.

The 27 is the top of the line deluxe revolver and if you buy one and drill it please don't tell me. The 28 was the Plain Jane version.
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I would add, do not deface a model 28 either. Plain Jane or not, they are extremely collectible and are not available in anywhere near the abundance of 27s…

OP, p&r and hammer mounted pins are features of old. They are more of a nostalgia thing for those of us who collect the vintage revolvers. They really give you no practical advantage.

I would suggest what Bob has, the 586. They are blued as you want, readily available today, and are most likely pre-tapped (call S&W to confirm). My wife has the stainless version, the 686, but in the plus version that chambers 7 rounds. Wonderful revolver. As Bob says, plenty sturdy and w/full underlug for great balance. I have often heard them described as the most accurate 357 magnum on the market.

My only concern is your choice of barrel length. Are you sure you want to scope a 4-inch revolver?
 
I don't know if the current Classic series 27 is D&R'd or not.
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A have a couple of those in one of the safes and just went to check... they are. So that might be a choice for the OP, but at a higher price tag.
 
I'd sure recommend an L-Frame over the N-Frame in a Smith due to the longer cylinder of the L-Frame.
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Hells bells, this old timer can still learn new tricks. I had to get out my caliper to confirm what you just said. 1.625" on the L frame, 1.575" on the N frame. Do you know why, and can you expand upon your recommendation to OP?
 
Thanks guys for all of the great information.

About the 4" barrel, Frankly, you are probably right. I would do better to find 5 or 6 inches.

Now I know where to start looking.
 
I sent you a PM about a member on the S&W Forum named weatherby who has a 6" M28 that's already drilled he would sell.
 
Saxon Pig, I tried to log in over there, but seem to have forgotten my log in information. After a few attempts, I was locked out.

I appreciate the heads up. If only I can remember my log in information! :rolleyes:
 
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