Yes, completely homemade. I got tips from a retired installer on what works best.
I have a sign out front from a national alarm company so that takes care of the casual intruder.
The doors and windows are not wired. Reason? Simple. Contact switches are a pain and are not as flexible to use. Every stinking room has a motion/IR detector instead. The detectors are aimed at points of possible entry and choke points inside the house. Anything bigger than a housecat will set off the alarm. If you can get into the house without setting off the motion detectors by opening a door or coming through a window, you'll have to belly crawl everywhere, and again, not move any interior doors either!
The alarm sound is a klaxon like they would use in a noisy machine shop/foundry-type environment, aimed out an attic vent. Oh, yes, the entire system is battery back-up. Use one of the power supply units from an emergency exit lighting system. Kill the power to the house and it still works just fine -- for days!
The alarm sends a signal to an auto-dialler (also battery operated) that simultaneously calls by hard-wire phone line and a cell phone connection. Cut the phone line, and the cell phone connection still goes through. I'm not going to say who gets notified. Let's just say that more than one number gets called.
Good luck getting to the alarm master controls to shut it off. It'd take you several minutes to get to even if you
knew where it was! Too bad you've only got 30 seconds.
My control panel to arm the system is KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid). You know those wireless keypads for garage door openers? There you go! They work great for alarms too! One code to arm, another to disarm. Also, no wires to be cut!
Doors and windows? The three entry doors to the house are steel, with steel frames. All have 1" deadbolts. All have anti-kick plates in the stress areas. Even the garage door has a deadbolt! The sliding patio door has a deadman stick, so do the sliding windows. The doublehung windows were more of a problem, but a drill and a hardened pin took care of those as well. Drill a 1/4" hole through the one frame and into but not through the other in the corners. Now take a 1/4" steel rod and place it in the hole. Windows are now locked together. If you need a little ventilation but still want security, do the same thing in the side frames where they overlap when the window is open a couple of inches. Same pin fits here as well. You can slide the whole thing up and down to adjust if you want top or bottom or both open a crack. You can't do that when you have contact switches!
Now, people ask me if I'm paranoid or something. Waddya think?
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Remember, just because you are not paranoid doesn't mean they are not out to get you!