Seat and crimp 38 sp in one step... easy this time?

I always seat and crimp revolver loads in one step. Most revolver bullets have a crimp grove. As long as the die is setup correctly the angle of the crimp groove and the lip on the die should match up without any problems.

If you crimp too early you'll be crimping into the bullet and can buckle the case. I can tell the crimp if correct just be the feel of the press handle. You should feel a small increase in pressure for the last half and inch or so of the stroke. If the pressure is considerably higher you're probably crimping into the bullet, and if there is no increase in pressure you're possibly not crimping at all.

For 38 special you don't necessarily need a solid crimp or any crimp at all, but you will need to remove the belling created when using the expander die.
 
.38 Special doesn't need a crimp unless you're loading hot loads for a lever action rifle. +P's, maybe.
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If you are loading for a lever rifle, you need to crimp regardless.

Crimping for a revolver depends on the gun and the load.

I crimp them all and do it with the seater die....always have with my RCBS dies.

You shoulda checked Midsouth Shooters Supply. They are about $15 less than the Amazon site showed.
 
Right on, just a simple matter of coordinating the crimp with the seating depth. Most cast bullets for revolvers do have a crimping groove.
 
You did it right, keep on crimping if you want because it's not going to hurt and it's your choice and only your choice. It's possible that your rcbs dies had a different roll profile and didn't give as clean and strong a roll as the new one does.
 
.38 Special doesn't need a crimp unless you're loading hot loads for a lever action rifle.
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Unless, when you are firing a revolver and the recoil pulls a bullet from a case far enough that the cylinder will not turn...
 
I've loading .38/.357's for a loooong time, always seat and crimp at the same time. Not a problem.

The only hull I have ever collapsed was a 40 cal, I saw where some guy was collapsing .44 mag. That's scary.

Have a blessed evening,

Leon
 
I've been loading .38 Special for a long time. I have almost always used the seating die to crimp. Very few issues.

I do seat and crimp separately when loading .45 ACP and 9mm because that's the way my die sets are made.
 
Ive really taken a liking to the seat/crimp set I have, takes a min to get the adjusted just so but one stroke and it done.:cool:

And as stated above, nice work.
 
I've been using RCBS dies for 25+ years and for all my handgun reloads (.380, 9mm, .38/.357, .44mag and .45acp) I've seated and crimped in one step.
 
The question is did you send in for your free bullets? Hornady has a rebate program if you go on line and download the form. Not exactly free but cheap.
 
.38 Special doesn't need a crimp unless you're loading hot loads for a lever action rifle. +P's, maybe
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For 38 special you don't necessarily need a solid crimp or any crimp at all, but you will need to remove the belling created when using the expander die.
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Or you're using a powder that likes pressure to burn well...........
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As usual more bad incorrect info on the good old internet,
and this is what will happen without crimping,

when you are firing a revolver and the recoil pulls a bullet from a case far enough that the cylinder will not turn...
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I had been making a light crimp on my 45 acp rounds for my revolver due to a change in bullet design. I had 2 out of 6 rounds where the bullets pushed out of the case .020. I corrected by INCREASING CRIMP. The crimp in your photo was spot on. revolver rounds need a good solid roll crimp as you did and for a straight bullet with NO CRIMP GROVE and good solid taper crimp.
 
Yes, you need a crimp;

I always seat and crimp revolver loads in one step.
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Same here using my RCBS dies from decades ago; loading 158 LSWC, no matter the brand, haven't had to adjust them in all this time. Crimps into the groove perfectly
 
I know nothing about the Hornady dies, but seating and crimping with one die has always been very easy if you just properly adjust the die. That is the ONLY way I load handgun cartridges, and it is totally simple with my Lyman, Lee and RCBS standard dies.

Of course, the .38 only needs a slight crimp, even with +P loads, and that makes it even easier, since any normal variations in case length will never cause a problem. The only time I have ever had an issue was with some very old .357 Magnum cases that had been reloaded many times at full power - those loads generally need a good stout crimp, and when you have properly adjusted the die for that level of crimp, some longer cases can cause the crimp to complete a bit early and begin to bulge the cases.
 
I know nothing about the Hornady dies, but seating and crimping with one die has always been very easy if you just properly adjust the die. That is the ONLY way I load handgun cartridges, and it is totally simple with my Lyman, Lee and RCBS standard dies.
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I agree, I have 4 different sets of 38 Special reloading dies, all of them are RCBS. Before the Internet it was suggested seating and crimping was a bad habit and then the rational was included. Dillon started with seating with one on die and crimping on another and they gave the rational. I will not load on a progressive without a lock out die meaning there is not enough room on the 550 B for seating and crimping and the lock out die so I told Dillon I did not need their press because I was not starting over with new dies and or loading without a lock out die.

It was about that time RCBS started making aluminum dies to straighten out the confusion because it make no sense to install a primer in position one and push it out on position #2 when the case was expanded.

F. Guffey
 
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