Scratches on new Ruger cylnder face?

P

PPQ226guy

New member
Hi All,

I have a new blued GP100 and I have noticed the finish is scratched around the cylinder faces, as though it is being scratched by the forcing cone. I have only dry fired it at this point. Is this normal? Should I be concerned? Function seems fine and I don't feel anything dragging but it seems that it must be. Any feedabck is appreciated!
 
Pictures would help. Do you know for sure the scratches were not there before dry firing? Rugers are not known for their perfect fit and finish and the marks may have been there all along. If there is nothing binding or dragging, it's hard to imaging the scratches just appearing. If you are dry firing in DA, you may not be noticing the dragging.
 
Also, most likely it was fired at the factory. Are you seeing blast residue perhaps?

If it measures out correctly with a feeler gauge I think you should be good to go.

+1 on pictures.
 
These are legit, metal showing scratches, I'm afraid. The blueing is worn on the cone too, obviously. :mad: Should I call Ruger or am I just being silly?

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That is more than likely from the cylinder rubbing against the forcing cone.
I had a Redhawk with the same problem. I took a file and removed a couple thousands from the forcing cone.
You need to get it checked out as you could also have excessive endshake.
Since you bought it new I'd probably go ahead and send it back to Ruger to fix.

Jim
 
Do you have a cylinder gap? Hold your revolver from the side and see if you can see any light between the forcing cone and the cylinder then slowly cock it 6 times.

If it's not touching that part of your cylinder will be covered in powder burns after a box of ammo so you'll hardly see them.
 
Contact Ruger and send them that same photo. They will fix it and probably reblue the cylinder.
Don’t do anything else to it.
 
The fact that the scratches radiate in all directions from the chambers instead of rotating in a line that matches the turning of the cylinder in relationship to the forcing cone is intriguing.
 
The fact that the scratches radiate in all directions from the chambers instead of rotating in a line that matches the turning of the cylinder in relationship to the forcing cone is intriguing.
Click to expand...

That happens from opening and closing the cylinder.
 
I have a Royal Phoenix that has similar issues with the front of the cylinder. now on my old half lug GP the cylinder face is flawless.
 
That happens from opening and closing the cylinder.
Click to expand...

If that were solely the case, then the scratches would all appear at the same place on the cylinder and all on the same plane as the radius of the action. Some of those scratches are 90 degrees from that and would only be caused if there was contact from more than one area of the frame and not just the forcing cone. Particularly if you look at the chamber/throat in the 5 o'clock position in the pic. Almost looks like a bubbasmith tried to polish the chambers/throats with steel wool/sandpaper on a electric drill.
 
Measure the gap between the face of the cylinder & barrel. If its between .004" to .009" its ok. It would be a waste of your time & Rugers to return it. The cylinder face will look a lot worst after you fire it. :)
 
Even if a cylinder doesn't rub on the forcing cone in dry firing, it might do so in live firing if the barrel-cylinder gap is too small. Many revolver owners feel that the smaller the b-c gap the better so as to lose as little propellant force as possible. But what they don't realize is that a revolver cylinder expands lengthwise from the heat of firing and that can cause the cylinder to bind after as few as two or three shots with some loads.

If return to the factory is not an option, the gap can be widened by carefully filing the end of the forcing cone (end of barrel). But it is better to have a gunsmith use the proper tool to cut the barrel face evenly and get the proper size and shape of the forcing cone. In my experience, the optimum b-c gap is .006-.007".

Jim
 
filing the end of the forcing cone (end of barrel).
Click to expand...
The cylinder face it what gets adjusted if one or 2 chambers have high spots that will rub the barrel after they get dirty. A gunsmith can put the cylinder in a lathe and face off the high spots. :)
 
Facing the cylinder presents more problems than working on the forcing cone (including re-bluing) with a likelihood of creating more trouble than it fixes. If a cylinder is far out of spec, returning the revolver to the factory would be the best route.

Jim
 
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