I have fitted my scope(Hako 4-16x56) to a .243 Remy PSS. I need almost two full turns of the windage turret to get zero(from centre there is 5.5 turns available in each direction,1/4 MOA per click) This is starting from an optically centered cross hair. I have Leupold adjustable windage bases currently centered. The scope holes in the receiver are central over the bore. My questions are: Is this amount of adjustment unusual 2 turns seems a lot. Should I make the adjustment on the base and leave the scope alone or perhaps a combination of both? I want to keep a windage zero at all ranges and not get a cross over effect.
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Scope windage adjustment
- Thread starter tictac
- Start date
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
You're always best off if the crosshairs are as close as possible to centered in the scope. So, center the crosshairs for windage, and get close to point of aim with the mounts. It oughta be a one-time hassle...
FWIW, Art
FWIW, Art
If you are using the Leupold type "windage adjustable" rear scope base (or rear half of a one piece base) I would suggest that you center the reticle (based upon number of turns) and use the base screws to get her as close as possible. This will get you closer to the center of the scope's adjustable range. The assumptions you made are just that, assumptions. Get the windage as close as possible with your adjustable rear base screws and then re-zero.
I have centered the recticle using the number of turns principle, but what concerns me is that if I use the rear base adjustment to bring the recticle to target I need to use around 3mm of travel. The scope is then clearly offset when viewed from above. I am beginning to wonder if the recticle is not infact centered? If I use the rear base and put this much error in I think Ill be worse off. If I Know that the scope is 100% in alignment with the bore could I use a colimator to align the recticle? Thanks for nyour help so far......
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
If you know the body of the scope is lined up with the bore, yet the internal adjustments must be well off to one side to have the bullet hit the point of aim, I'd think there's a problem inside the scope--which means warranty-time.
If you have another scope--or access to a "loaner"--which is known to be good on another rifle, you could try it on yours and see if the same windage problem occurs.
Other than that, I just dunno.
Art
If you have another scope--or access to a "loaner"--which is known to be good on another rifle, you could try it on yours and see if the same windage problem occurs.
Other than that, I just dunno.
Art
WalterGAII
Moderator
Tictac: I can't add anything to the scope problems, but I'm curious as to where you found a PSS in .243?? I was looking for a Rem with H-S Precision stock in .243 last year, but wound up having to buy the VLS.
The saga continues!
It appears that when I optically centre the recticle by mounting the scope in V blocks and rolling it/adjusting it until the x-hair stays perfectly on target for a full revolution I end up with the windage mechanical adjustment off centre. ie mechanical centre of the windage turret does not equal optical centre of the cross hair. Am I right in thinking that as the cross hair is centered all is well. The fact that I wont have as much travel in one direction of windage as the other is irrelevant? I am unlikly to need a great deal of adjustment anyway and I still have around 3 full turns left. The gun smith that sold me the scope says its irrelevant but I would like to hear your thoughts chaps!
It appears that when I optically centre the recticle by mounting the scope in V blocks and rolling it/adjusting it until the x-hair stays perfectly on target for a full revolution I end up with the windage mechanical adjustment off centre. ie mechanical centre of the windage turret does not equal optical centre of the cross hair. Am I right in thinking that as the cross hair is centered all is well. The fact that I wont have as much travel in one direction of windage as the other is irrelevant? I am unlikly to need a great deal of adjustment anyway and I still have around 3 full turns left. The gun smith that sold me the scope says its irrelevant but I would like to hear your thoughts chaps!
Hey tictac, I've got a similar situation on one of my Remington rifles. It is a S&S 24" 308Win M700BDL-DM. I'd mounted a BIG Leupold on it with their Dual Dovetail mounts and couldn't get on the paper with scope adjustment. It was shooting to the right.
I looked around a bit and had a set of the Redfield style (Adjustable Rear) bases and put them on it. I've had to move the rear of the scope to the "Left" a bit and I can notice it when I look down on the rifle and scope, but it doesn't hurt a thing.
My particular Remington rifle seems to be very picky about which bullet it likes the best, which is extremely unusual. But, the big news is that I think the majority of "my rifles problem" is related to the "magical" barrel harmonics with that thin, long barrel on it. Now that I've got the groups somewhat centered, some brands/styles of bullets still go to the right of the Point of Aim and some to the left.
But, the more I shoot it, the closer the separate groups seem to get. Makes no sense at all to me. Nothing is wrong with the bedding, or trigger, or scope, so I first suspected it was just due to a lack of "trigger-time" on my part.
I do not know why your crosshair is not centered when the "adjustments" are centered. I would have expected the crosshair to be centered when the adjustment screws were centered too.
Anyway, I'd recommend you center your crosshairs in the scope and then use the "Lateral Adjustment" of your rear base to get the Point of Impact as close to center as possible. Then fine tune with the scope adjustments. And, don't worry about that rear base adjustment " IF " you are getting nice tight round groups.
Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
I looked around a bit and had a set of the Redfield style (Adjustable Rear) bases and put them on it. I've had to move the rear of the scope to the "Left" a bit and I can notice it when I look down on the rifle and scope, but it doesn't hurt a thing.
My particular Remington rifle seems to be very picky about which bullet it likes the best, which is extremely unusual. But, the big news is that I think the majority of "my rifles problem" is related to the "magical" barrel harmonics with that thin, long barrel on it. Now that I've got the groups somewhat centered, some brands/styles of bullets still go to the right of the Point of Aim and some to the left.
But, the more I shoot it, the closer the separate groups seem to get. Makes no sense at all to me. Nothing is wrong with the bedding, or trigger, or scope, so I first suspected it was just due to a lack of "trigger-time" on my part.
I do not know why your crosshair is not centered when the "adjustments" are centered. I would have expected the crosshair to be centered when the adjustment screws were centered too.
Anyway, I'd recommend you center your crosshairs in the scope and then use the "Lateral Adjustment" of your rear base to get the Point of Impact as close to center as possible. Then fine tune with the scope adjustments. And, don't worry about that rear base adjustment " IF " you are getting nice tight round groups.
Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
WalterGAII
Moderator
Tictac: Thanks for the info. I was in the market for a Rem. 700 heavy barrel with the H-S Precision stock, but wound up buying the VLS, as I didn't see anything listed in .243 for the other H-S Precision models. I love the .243. I use mine exclusively for varmint hunting and target punching. Mine seems to like the 70-75gr. bullets best, although I've shot some pretty tight groups, using those 55gr. zingers.