scope mounts/Rem. model 600

reinert

New member
Hello Forum Folks,

I've got a buddy who inherited a model 600 Remington in .222 cal. What height 2-piece Tally rings would you suggest when mounting a 6X40, V-Plex, Vortex scope (1" tube) on it? It's a birthday gift, and I already have the scope, just need the proper Tally's. He's got a set of Tally's on his LA model 70 Win, and really likes them. This gift is a surprise, and I thought the Tally's would be proper.

Thanks,

reinert
 
Usually low rings will work with 40mm objectives, but sometimes they can be just too low with some scope/rifle combo's. That is where I'd start, but some like them mounted higher and use mediums. Mediums will certainly work if in doubt.
 
Talley rings are usually a bit higher than others. I've mounted a 3-9 X 40 with no issues using low rings on a M70.

If you email them, they will tell you pretty specifically what you need.

Good luck.
 
Having been scoped ages ago, my 600s all wear Weaver mounts and rings. Don't know about the ones you are interested in.

Be aware that some scopes will require the removal of the rear sight blade in order to mount in their "correct" position.


If you do remove the rear sight (all or part), and don't want it, I will certainly give you a fair price for it. These parts are not common anymore. If you decide to keep it, don't LOSE it, as correct replacement parts are rare.
 
Thanks for the comments. I started looking a bit myself and settled on the Weaver #70 (48070) base, and the old standard Weaver 1" rings (medium). I didn't know the M600 had only 3 base mounting holes, and thought the solid, one piece base should work best. The .222 should be easy on most any mounting system. The Weaver stuff should be just fine, I'm thinking. Hopefully the base and rings will be here before his 60th birthday party. I'll be a nice surprise for my huntin' bud.

reinert
 
I really love the Rem 600 platform, shot many a deer with one in .308. Don't you think a 6x is a little over kill for the short barrel .222 ? I use a fixed 3x for hunting and found it to be compact and easy to get onto a target. But to answer my own question i guess 6x is fine for a bench rifle.
 
IBm,

My buddy inherited the rifle a couple of months ago, and said he'd like to scope it. I had the scope on hand, and thought it would at least be a start (hopefully a good start) for whatever he might want to do with it down the road as far as glass is concerned. And again, it should be a nice surprise for him on his "60th." Had mine a few years ago...

The Weaver mounting system should work for just about anything with a 1" tube, no? This should at least get him going in shooting that sweet little riflegun he now has, and knowing my bud, he'll leave the Vortex on it if it puts 'em center.

44AMP,

Thanks for the heads-up on the rear sight, too. If we have to take it off, I'll be sure to let my buddy know to keep it in a safe place (and not forget where that is!)

reinert
 
The Weaver one piece base is actually two pieces, the large one piece base, and a small spacer (shim) plate to go underneath the rear of the base to compensate for the lower height of the rear receiver ring.

The biggest complaint is the large base reduces the already limited room in the ejection port (making loading a bit more tedious). With .308 body size rounds, this can matter to some people. With the .222, not so much.

Remember what you have, its a hunting rifle, a stalking rifle, or a pest rifle, not a bench gun, or a varmint rifle where you can shoot long accurate strings of shots.

6x is a bit high for general use of the carbine (for what its best at), but if that's what you got, it will get you shooting, and pretty well. I think a smallish 3x9 is a better all around choice, in the long run.

Also, BE AWARE that there have been factory recalls on the model 600s due to issues with the trigger. The 600 trigger is adjustable, and CAN BE ADJUSTED UNSAFELY!!! BE smart, use good gun handling techniques and be safe.

You might want to contact Remington, see what they say.
 
44AMP,

Really do appreciate the input; never had the opportunity to handle, let alone mount a scope on, a M600; cool little guns. My buddy will use this rifle for whitetail doe/fawn additional tags here in Wyoming, and if need be, a varmint or two. He has a neat old homestead place where most all shots taken are less than 100 yds., sometimes way less than that on a whitetail.

The other thing here as long as were talking about a .222, is that Wyoming passed a law a year or two ago, allowing .22 cal. bullets to be used in a center-fire cartridge with an over-all cartridge length of at least 2 inches for deer and antelope. The additional requirement is that a 60grn. bullet weight, minimum, must be used in the cartridge. The .223 Rem, I understand, has no problem stabilizing a 60 grainer, but the .222 generally won't stabilize a bullet that heavy because of the rate of twist. Maybe barrel length will come into play here, too, don't know; new to the .222 reloading possibilities and/or limitations.

Given the general range that a deer will be shot at with the .222 on my friend's land (100 yds. or less), can/will the 60grn. bullet be made to be adequately accurate with a proper hand-load? We will definitely be reloading for the new rifle, and any comments regarding the question will be much appreciated.

BTW, if the trigger becomes any kind of a question, we'll have our gunsmith in Sheridan do any work necessary.

Again, thanks for the input,

reinert
 
reinert,

You're welcome, I hope my experience is a help. My first deer rifle was a Model 600 in .308 Win (back in the early 70s) and I played with it extensively. I have since collected 600s in .222 Rem, .243 Win (Mohawk 600), 6mm Rem, .308 Win, and .350 Rem Mag.

The problem with the trigger is that it is essentially the same trigger used on the 700s, and the design can malfunction if dirt, debris, or thickened oil gums it up. IF this happens, the rifle can fire when the safety is released. And unmodified guns must have the safety off to remove a live round from the chamber.

Remington did a recall on the 600s, many years before the troubles with the 700 trigger came to light. I have never personally had any problems, but it is something you need to be aware of.

Other tips about the 600s, look at the plastic floorplate. It should be flush with the stock along the top edge, not bowed. If the floorplate is bowed away from the stock, it means that someone took the rifle apart, and didn't put it back together correctly.

The magazine box is a sheet metal "U" shape, open at the rear. To CORRECTLY reinstall the box, you must pinch it together at the back end, and fit it into the receiver opening. Then CAREFULLY put the action back into the stock. (what works easiest for me is to have the action upside down, and lower the stock on to it.)

IF you are clumsy, you will bump the mag box, and the sheet metal will pop "down" away from being fully seated in the receiver. This means that someone who does this, and doesn't realize it, can warp (bow) the plastic floorplate when tightening the action screws.

The floorplate can't force the mag box back into place (you have to pinch it together and reinsert it. Not doing that bows the floorplate. It doesn't change the functioning of the rifle, but it looks like crap, and for those who know, is a dead giveaway that someone didn't do a good job.

There are loads listed for the .222 using 60 & 70gr bullets. Velocities shown maxed about 2800fps from a 24", so 2500-2600 might be possible from the short carbine barrel. This will do the job on deer, but must be considered a precision instrument, meaning there is no excess of power. Personally I wouldn't choose a .222 for a big buck, but smaller deer, with shot placement SUITABLE to the bullet used, being critical, should give satisfactory results.

My book says Rem .222 is a 1-14" twist. Now, this probably won't do a good job stabilizing the 60gr+ bullets, BUT while it might group too poorly to be a good varmint load, it might be accurate enough for deer at 100yds, or less.

Only shooting will tell. Handloading with different powders & bullets might come up with an acceptably accurate combination, despite the twist being "too slow"

As an example, while I have never shot the heavy bullets from my .222, I have a Win 70 Varmint .22-250 with the same 1-14" twist. That rifle will do 3/4" groups with a 52gr HP, but only about 2.5" groups with the Sierra 63gr semi pointed spitzer. 2.5" sucks for a varmint rifle, but is good enough for deer at 100 or so. So don't automatically write off the heavy bullet in the .222, just remember its not what the rifle was built for.

You've got a fine little carbine, don't ask more than it was made to give, and you will be well served.
 
44AMP,

Once again, thanks for the good info. The only thing bad about the M600 we're talking about here is that IT'S NOT MINE! Ha! It will be fun to experiment with hand-loads in this one, and since my buddy doesn't do re-loads, he just might let me have it for a while to work up some doe/fawn whitetail medicine for it.

reinert
 
M/Suggestion:
Give him a gift card for the store. Let him decide what (he) prefers in a Tally ring since there are more than one design & height offered.

"No mistakes No disappointments. Everybody is happy outcome."
 
600 rem

The trigger recall on the 600s was unrelated to the so called 700 trigger problem. Look on the left side of trigger housing, it will have a small "v" stamp if it had the recall done. The plastic floorplate will warp all on its own, doesn't need help with improper install. Spend $150 and buy the nice steel floorplate from Heritage arms (Brownells). The 600 is drilled and tapped on the rear left side of the receiver for receiver sights. IIRC, the Williams model had "600" as part of its model designation. Bansner, (High Tech Specialties) makes a nice hand laid kevlar/glass stock for the 600. A little work and a few hundred dollars will turn the 600 into one of the handiest 5 lb rifles a person could ask for. Mine with its stock skinny little barrel (308) shoots lights out better than any of the three Kimbers I have owned.
 
The plastic floorplate will warp all on its own, doesn't need help with improper install. Spend $150 and buy the nice steel floorplate from Heritage arms (Brownells).

I've had 7 of them, none of them warped on its own. And while I will admit the steel floorplates look nice, I passed on them when they were $60, ages ago, and so darn sure not spending $150 for a cosmetic look and a couple more ounces of steel, thanks, but not for me.
 
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