Scope Mounting Question

C

Clevinger

New member
I am mounting a Zeiss Conquest on a rifle. In the past I have paid someone to do this. I have Leupold bases and rings. I plan to lap it as well.

My only question is, how do you decide how far anterior or posterior to place the scope in the rings?

It seems like I see a lot of pictures with the anterior ring snugged up against the bell of the scope practically:

struger_080807inar.jpg


I also don't want to cut my eyebrow.

How do you do this part properly?
 
Go ahead and tighten the bases to the rifle. Then set the scope in place but not tight in the rings.

Mount the rifle to your shoulder. You want max eye relief without having it too far forward. What you want to see when you look through the scope and ease it back from its most forward position is a full picture without seeing the inside of the tube--but "just right" for eye relief. Should be about three or four inches between your eye and the back of the scope.

Then make sure the crosshairs are just right for vertical/horizontal and tighten the rings.
 
1) Bolt handle clearance. Bolt handle must not strike the scope when raised (action unlocked).
2) Position of scope on rifle with relation to user. Scope must be forward enough such that it is natural for the shooter's eye. The position of the scope base dictates (in part) where the rings will go. This in turn helps determine how far forward or back the scope may be mounted.
3) Operation of the safety - can't have safety's operation interfered with by the scope (this is if the safety is mounted on the recoil shield as opposed to by the trigger).
 
Then make sure the crosshairs are just right for vertical/horizontal and tighten the rings.
Click to expand...

I believe this is very important to get right. If not your elevation and windage adjustments will not work properly. I use two small levels with one placed on the top of the elevation knob and one on the receiver. I have also seen feeler gauges used under the scope but have not tried this yet.
 
If that is your rifle pic and it is new I would sight in the irons first and then mount the scope, for backup. Also I set my scopes just slightly closer on my hunting rifles because they are used more in the winter months with a heavy coat, so I do not have to stretch to sight through the scope. level the rifle and level a vertical and horizontal line on the wall and adjust crosshairs to be perfectly level
 
I you are using Leupold rings with dovetail attachments either get something else, or pay someone who knows what they are doing to mount them. Those are the most difficult rings to work with, and if not mounted correctly will cause problems later. It is best if they are mounted using special tools to assure they are straight. If not your scope will be in a bind and could be damaged. I personally have no use for them.

What type of rifle? The photo in your post shows a Ruger which would not use this type of mount. The Ruger rings are pretty simple, solid and work well. My second choice is most anything with a cross slot. The old Weavers work as well as anything, but are lacking in aeshetics. Lots of folks like the Warne mounts for a strong, simple and good looking system. My personal preference is something with the bases and lower ring made in one piece. Either DNZ or Talley lightweights. They are a stronger mounting system, the simplest and relatively inexpensive.

As far as scope position in the rings, I put the scope in the rings and snug up the screws a bit. I leave them loose enough to move the scope around. I then mount the rifle to my shoulder and play around with scope position until I get the sight picture I want. Remember, you may be actually shooting the gn with heavy clothes on so wearing a heavy jacket while doing this will make it more realistic.
 
As said, the most important thing (aside from proper mounting with crosshairs level/perpendicular to the bore) is "natural" sight picture.

You always bring your scope to your eye- never the other way around.
Find your natural, comfortable, and repeatable cheekweld- then bring the scope towards you until the correct sight picture is obtained.

Easiest done in a shooting rest if you're unassisted.
 
field of view is how you should set your scope. At any given magnification your scope gives you a field of view number. You can only see this if your eye is the proper distance from the Ocular lense. If you can see the internal mounting or even the ring that holds the object lense while looking through the ocular lense you are to close. If you can't see the advertized field of view you are too far away.
 
I you are using Leupold rings with dovetail attachments either get something else, or pay someone who knows what they are doing to mount them. Those are the most difficult rings to work with, and if not mounted correctly will cause problems later. It is best if they are mounted using special tools to assure they are straight. If not your scope will be in a bind and could be damaged. I personally have no use for them.
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I always found them pretty easy to mount. You can use a dowell/broom handle to twist them in to place, you can also use a crescent wrench, but put a couple layers of tape on the jaw for padding, so you don't mar the rings.

To make sure they are straight, use the scope itself. With just the bottom half of the rings installed on the rifle, set the scope in the ring halves, it should slide forward and back without resistance. If it binds at all, the rings are not straight.
 
To answer a few questions in this thread:

1. No, the picture is not my gun. I put it in here for the purpose of illustration. It was a random rifle I found on the internet. Yes, it's a Ruger, as guessed.

2. As far as alignment, I have the Wheeler kit with alignment rods, a lapping rod, and lapping compound which I intend to use.


Great info thus far. Thanks to all.
 
Quote: If you are using Leupold rings with dovetail attachments either get something else or pay someone who knows what they are doing to mount them.

First +100 for Art, he's probably seen more scopes mounted then me for sure.
Now back to this quote from jmr40, why would you say that, I use Leupold bases and rings exclusively and haven't had trouble like some people do with lesser brands. Believe me if they were tough to work with I wouldn't be using them, although they do require respect and proper care when installing them. But no big deal.;)
 
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I usually push my scopes almost as far forward as they can go. I am very tall. For a shorter person, all the way back might work. Depends on the shooter, length of pull, cheek placement, etc. I used to use Redfield (now called leupold) type bases and rings. I had several of them fail due to the rear ring pushing through and cutting the windage screws on the rear base. They cant take a lot of recoil if mounting a heavy scope. I mostly use Warne and Burris Signature mounted Picitinny or Weaver type base. I have also begun to use the integral Talley's with good success. DNZ is a very strong system as well.
 
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Never had a problem with Leupold rings and bases....Been using them for years....I probably have a dozen rifles with them right now....Very simple and easy to adjust with the right tools....I would like to try the Talleys tho....Just have not done it yet....
 
I've been puzzling over this very question myself.

The answers so far are quite sensible but they make an unspoken assumption of the shooting position used.

I bought a used .270 with a scope and tried to use my limited High Power experience in trying the rifle out while prone. Couldn't be made to work because the reticle was way too close to my eye. I didn't pursue the issue and put the rifle away for the last decade. I'm getting interested again.

So it seems that the "normal" hunting position is assumed to be standing or sitting with the rifle resting somewhere.

Prone scoped shooting is something else entirely and seems to require either a much longer pull stock or a much further forward scope placement.

What am I missing? (besides practical experience)
 
So it seems that the "normal" hunting position is assumed to be standing or sitting with the rifle resting somewhere.
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This is how I sight my rifles in....While hunting..I will be shooting out of a stand..while sitting.....Or I may take an offhand shot..standing.....I do like to have a secure rest tho....
 
Keg I have at least 20 rifles mounted with the Redfield type dovetail base and ring. Never has a problem out of them until I started mounting heavier scopes on high powered rifles. The scope would push the ring through the screws on the rear base. The first rifle that did it was my .340WBY. Next it happened on my 338 Rum. At that point and time I switched out the rings and bases on my a few that had same type recoil and now use stronger systems. At first i switched to dual dove tail, then migrated toward Warne, Talley, and now am Fond of Burris Signature Weaver style. The need for the Redfield system kind of faded away when the manufacturers figured out how to drill an action on center line. Nothing wrong with Redfield at all in lower recoil applications.
 
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