Scope MOA question

lrdchaos

Inactive
I am going to be purchasing a remington 5r 308 rifle. I am currently looking at the nikon monarch 8-32x 50 scope. The scope has 20 moa of adjustments, will that be enough to shoot out to 5-600 meters? I am also researching the leopold 8-25x50 vx3 which has 94 moa of adjustments. Just wanting a scope that will work on a consistent basis out to 600 meters. I'm wanting to do it right the first time with a quality scope, I don't know that I will ever shoot past 600 meters.

Thanks in advance
 
You need to get a 20 MOA base to mount the scope on the rifle. Do that and you should be fine.


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- Sam Anderson
 
BTW... I have that scope and like it very much! Some will argue that you don't need that much magnification but I have no complaints. For Hunting it could be too much but for bench rest shooting I like it!


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- Sam Anderson
 
What does the 20 moa base do? I'm just getting into this longer range shooting, so alot of this stuff is new, trying to research as much as possible though.
 
To get out to 600m you will need about 16-18 MOA of elevation adjustment. I am assuming you mean you have 20 MOA of up adjustment left after you zero the rifle at 100m or 200m. So you would be at the upper limits without a 20MOA base.

A 20 MOA base has a built in incline so you can get more up adjustment.
 
The 20 moa base is tapered at 20 minutes of angle (1/3 degree) to give you that much elevation before even adjusting the scope. A necessity if you are shooting at extreme long range or using a scope with a narrow range of adjustment.

You need approximately 15 MOA to get from 100 to 600 yards; a little more if you speak French. So if that Nikon only has 20 MOA, you must have the tapered base.
 
Scope

Go with the Leo other one doesn't have enough ramge you will need around 40 to 50 MOA's depending on how fast and how heavy the roung you use is traveling. The Leo with a 20 MOA base will be just what the DR. ordered.
 
The scope is canted downward because the base front is lower than the base rear. This way if you hold your scope horizontal, you are actually pointing the rifle barrel up into the sky to compensate for bullet drop,
Burris gets this job done in a different way by providing scope rings with different offsets. They work pretty darn well and I have used them with very good results in a number of bullet drop and scope alignment issues.
 
I have a Leupold MkIV 4.5-14X50 on my .338. It sits on a 20 mil base. I have the rifle zero'd at 600 yards. It is a ton of fun to shoot out at distance. I can't wait until I really get it figured out....
 
You will benefit from having an adjustable objective or side focus model. These allow you to remove parallax from the scope. At the distances you plan to shoot this can remove some of the error in your shooting and decrease your group size. If either model has it that would be the best choice IMO. If they don't have it check out the Vortex viper or diamondback models at http://vortexoptics.com The warranty is great and the glass is good to.
 
rezmedic54 Go with the Leo other one doesn't have enough ramge you will need around 40 to 50 MOA's depending on how fast and how heavy the roung you use is traveling. The Leo with a 20 MOA base will be just what the DR. ordered.

Where the h e l l did you come up with 40 to 50 MOA for a 308 @ 600m?????
 
308 MOA

Interesting thread.

My 308 with a 150gr bullet requires a 10 MOA up adjustment for 500 yards (100 yard zero). What are you folks using to get some of these numbers you are kicking around?
 
You could always be smart about it and go to JBM ballistics (google it) and generate some quick tables for what you're going to shoot and base your decision off of the data.

For the ubiquitous 168 SMK at 2600 fps (approx. Fed GMM)- the tables are showing 15.2 MOA of drop (ceteris paribus). With 1/4 MOA per click turret that means you'll need 61 clicks up from zero (assuming a 200 yard zero). Or, put another way, you'll need at least 16 MOA of up-movement left in your reticle.

With the 20 MOA base you'll pretty much have that with either of your proposed scopes. Without the additional elevation provided by the base it could be close for the Nikon.

Another consideration - if you're like most long distance shooters, a 600 meter capability will not be enough for long. I suspect its what is available at your current favorite range. The range where you will one day meet a guy who invites you to come try out a 1000 yard range. Plan for the future.
 
Interesting thread.

My 308 with a 150gr bullet requires a 10 MOA up adjustment for 500 yards (100 yard zero). What are you folks using to get some of these numbers you are kicking around?

Just what the heck sort of 150 grain bullet are you using? Standard M80 ball has a drop of around 13 MOA at that range for standard temperature and pressure. Unless you are at a high altitude, greater than 3,000 feet, then you should be right at 10 moa for 500 yards with an M80 projectile.

Ballistics are like handloading, what works in someone elses rifle at their range may vary considerably from your experience....

Jimro
 
I have a Nikon Prostaff 4X12X40BDC. I going to do my first 1000 yard shoot. I thought I would have to use the BDC Circles to do it but I was wrong.

I zeroed the scope at 100.

I put the 1000 yard distance with a 100 yard zero in the Spot On program. It came back with 304 inches drop (with the bullet, MV, temp, hum etc).

I thought I didn't have enough "clicks" to get 304 inches. So I marked my elevation - and low and behold, I got 222 clicks "up" before I stopped out. At 1000 yards that's 555 inches.

If your scope is 1/4 inch clicks at 100 yards it will be 2 1/2 inches for every click at 1000 yards.

Seems like a lot of people don't realize this.
 
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