Scope adjustment problems - Simmons 22 Mag

P

Paool

New member
I'll cut right to the chase: is there some reason why the elevation knob on a scope would have no apparent effect on point of impact?

Details: I mounted a Simmons 22 Magnum 3-9x40 scope on my Marlin 795 and was attempting to fine tune things yesterday. Set up targets at 25, 50, and 75 yards. First 5 shot group at 25 yards is about 3/4" left of the bull, but about the right elevation. Group size is ~1/2". A 5 shot group at 50 yards is a little farther left but still at about POA as far as elevation goes. Group size is ~1". Since I'd like to be hitting ~1" high at 50 yards, I adjust the scope 8 clicks up and 8 clicks right (1 click = 1/4 MOA). The next set of groups at 25 and 50 yards have moved right just the right amount and are now on target, but the elevation hasn't changed. I adjusted up 8 more clicks. Same thing; no change in elevation. 8 more clicks. No change. 8 more, no change. So now I've raised elevation by 32 clicks (8 MOA) and haven't seen any effect, but the windage adjustment seemed to work just fine.

Is this thing just broken or am I missing something?

By the way, I had recently installed one of these scope mounts to stop the "scope creep" problem. Scope is not moving due to recoil now, so it couldn't be that.
 
I had the same scope and the same problem, tap on the scope by the knobs with either you finger or a light tap with the handle of a screw driver. Mine kept losing zero so I switched to a little more expensive pro staff but it was well worth the cash.
 
Not the same scope, but the same brand. My crosshairs rotated about 20 degrees from the proper location. I went with a different brand!
 
It's either caput or has a set in the erector tube. Here's what you try and actually should be a once a year kind of maintainance thing. Indicate where your elevation and windage is set and then slowly run both sets to one extreme, back and then the other extreme and back to settings. This helps the internal wave springs from taking a set on the erector tube and often frees those that have, just don't force at the stops. This is something that should be done ,especially for optics used in competition that require frequent adjustment.
 
It sounds broken, but you may want to try tapping on the scope with a screwdriver handle or something and see if it takes the adjustments.

That being said, I'm not 100% sure about this scope, but most scopes have 1/4" adjustments at 100 yards. So each click at 100 yards should move it 1/4" (I say should because many cheaper scopes don't), but at 50 yards each click would move 1/8" of an inch. Or 200 yards 1/2" for example. So you always have to take that into consideration for what distance you are sighting it in. Make sure the adjustments are marked 1/4" for 50 yards, and not 100 yards. They may be on this scope I'm not sure, but most are marked for 100.
 
It sounds like in your attempt to tighten Leapers rings down enough to keep the scope from sliding, you may have crushed/cramped the tube and erector somewhat.
You can try tapping on the turrets, or moving the turret adjustments a bunch to try to free up the erector, but my guess is that the scope is toast if none of the things mentioned by other posters work.

One last thing to try, is moving the position of the rings on the scope body, if the mount and your eye relief will allow it, and also try loosening the rings just a bit. Make sure there is no visible "crimping" of the scope tube. That binds erectors and kills scopes. If that doesn't work, you'll need to send the scope back to Simmons.

Having owned a .22Mag for a few years, and having seen my Dad go through a few copies of them as they break and are replaced, I'm not too enamored with the brand. Sometimes they work fine, but it's more of a "4 out of 5" work properly sort of proposition buying one. Dad still has one with a reticle canted 45deg from the adjustment turrets. :eek:
 
Well this is frustrating. Went out again this evening and tried the "tap the scope" approach, but no change in behavior. Also loosened the screws enough to move the scope tube a bit. They were not very tight and I didn't see any crimping of the scope tube. I guess at this point it just looks busted. The thing is hardly used even though I've had it for over a year. I'll have to look into what would be involved in sending it back, although depending on the cost to me it might not be worth it to send back a scope that was ~$45 after a rebate. This was the first scope I've purchased...thought it would be a step up from the really cheap Tascos at Walmart and I wasn't interested in installing a $$150+ scope on a $100 .22. Maybe that's where I'm at now.

Thanks for the suggestions folks.
 
Scopes are one of those things where you generally get what you pay for. Seems like the cheap scopes I've owned always had some issue with their adjustments whether, like yours, they didnt want to move or more commonly their adjustments were not true to the stated measurement. For example, if it said 1/4 moa it was more like 1/3 moa or worse. There is a big difference between a $50 scope and a $150 scope. I have a $400 leupold on a 223 that I picked up used for $300 & the only thing I regret is that I wasted a bunch of money on cheap scopes in the past.
 
If I may recommend a scope, try a Nikon Prostaff 4x Rimfire model, a Sightron S1 3-9xRF model, or a Weaver 2-7x rimfire classic. All are available well under about $130, are made for rimfires, and all have very good reputations and lifetime warranties.
 
Paool:

You can't utilize a rifle's accuracy with a poor quality scope. Weaver males good scopes. Leupold even better.

Semper Fi.

Gunnery sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired
 
I tried a couple of cheaper Cabelas caliber-specific .22LR scopes and had problems, so returned them and bought a Mueller 4.5-14X and a Simmons .22 mag. The Simmons adjusts okay, but optics aren't great. The Mueller is a very impressive scope for the money!!!!!
 
Testing A Scope

Here's one way to test a scope if you can do the same.
I have a shop with a bench and a vise. I also have extra scope rings and an extra piece of steel such as a riser block used for other gun setups.
Tape a scope zeroing target to the wall and set the scope to mechanical zero. Set power to minimum since the distance is so close, and secure the scope by means of the riser block, rings, and vise.
Now just view the target through the scope as you run the controls up & down, left & right. Observe the cross hairs following your adjustments (or they do not). I often mark the limits on the target with a Sharpie during the test. Set the controls back to mechanical zero and mark it. Now you can see where your controls reach as you set them to the full range.
I did this once to learn a Tasco I had operated fully left & right, but only half way up & up.
I also learned from this that there is some considerable turning of the knobs before any movement is seen. The concept of tapping the turret has also benn seen. That is, make an adjustment, observe no change, tap the knob then- Bingo! it changed and snapped into the next spot.
 
I had the same exact problem. The service rep at Bushnell, Simmons' parent, told me to send it to them for repairs at their expense. The shipping and repair will cost them more than they made on the scope. They need to study Deming.
 
Get a new scope. While they won't break the bank, I've very good luck with Bushnell especially their Banner series. I had one on my 7mm Rem Mag for several years and it held it's zero very well. Great scope actually but finally downsized to a 3x9 Nikon.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top