savage upgrade

mnhunter3030

New member
im thinking about ordering a better stock custom lop of 12 3/4 for my short arms( grade 1 claro walnut with high polish ) from boyds gunstocks for my savage axis 3006 and installing a timney trigger and a new leupold 3x9 scope. right now the bolt hits the scope bell and i seem to remember that the solution to that was higher rings like medium? so im thinking that with the prairie hunter version everything should work out. Is the price justifiable or should i just turn it in and buy a better rifle? Im a lefty. thanks for any ideas and inputs:)

3030
 
Im thinking of going with this model from boyds gunstock, i dont care for the laminate much and heard of trouble with tang safety chipping or splitting. the desgine here says a higher comb for scope alignment.

thanks for pointing out both higher comb and rings, its kinda what i was thinking nice to have it confirmed.


Prairie Hunter

The Prairie Hunter design sports a Monte Carlo comb that is slightly raised to parallel the bore which aids with proper cheek alignment for scope usage[/B][/U] and also has nicely blended flutes in front of the comb to conceal the thumb and prevent thumb to nose contact when the gun recoils. A graceful cheek piece provides additional facial support and is blended beautifully into the stock and grip which discourages the shooter from climbing up onto the scope and keeping the stock aligned with your shoulder for superior recoil absorption. A slender and slightly open oval pistol grip with slight palm swell is well defined with the comb to give you a firm grip which allows quick mounting to the shoulder and aids with proper eye position with the scope. A sleek beveled hand-conforming forend that is oval in shape allowing superior palm to forend weld to help improve off hand shooting, and is proportioned to complement barrels of 22 to 26 inches in length.

Also available as a left hand stock.

This is the style im thinking of

Prairie Hunter Features:

Material under barrel channel has been removed to improve balance of the firearm
1/2" rubber recoil pad for quick non-slip mounting
All Finished stocks are 100% machine inlet for a drop in fit
Reinforcing screws installed for added strength at no additional cost
Average weight of 2.8 lbs.
Laboratory acid-based satin finish, proven to resist chemical damage and harsh treatment from the elements
Made of Laminate or American Walnut - These materials are used for their proven stability, strength, and beauty
The length of pull on this stock is 13 3/4"
The overall length is approximately 32"
 
timney trigger vs spring replacement

A question for you more experienced folks. When you go to replace a lousy trigger, such as the one on this savage axis, would the better investment be in a full timney trigger replacement or just a spring replacement? The cost is $100 vs $15, Ive read the spring replacement will make it to 3 -3.5 vs 1.5 - 4 for the timney what about the need for adjusting the searing pin? if just the spring is installed? Those who have installed just the spring seem to be very happy with it over all, I just worry about a creepy trigger:confused: i have zero experience with trigger work.
 
I haven't looked that closely at the Axis but if it uses the original Savage/Stevens trigger design (non Accutrigger) the sear should be adjustable if necessary. Whether or not it is safe after adjustment is something that must be carefully checked. I've been able to get many Savage triggers into a very acceptable weight range with no creep, but some of them become unsafe (IMO) when you get there. I'd rather have a heavier trigger with no creep if I must choose. Doesn't really hurt to try but definitely test all adjustments thoroughly and lock-tite them afterward. If you don't feel comfortable with it you can always get the Timney. It will will definitely allow you to go lighter while still safe, being made more precisely and specifically for such adjustments.
 
trigger work

Thank you gentlemen for the help, the task at hand seems like something i can do myself after watching some videos. I think i will order the spring for now and if there are any problems down the road before i leave for spring bear hunting i will certainly order the timney, prob a better deal anyhow.
i will also be ordering a grade 1 claro walnut stock with hi finish for this rifle should be a sweet shooter when all said and done.

thanks again with the great help.
 
the axis trigger has no sear adjust screw. ive worked on both accutriggers and non accutrigger models. if you dont have experience with triggers habe a smith work on it .
the non accutrigger axis spring is a coil design in a number 10 threaded hole luke accutrigger models and not like the standard non accu model 110's.
 
You have a $289 rifle. You have almost $500 in upgrades planned not counting the scope. When you finish you'll still have a $289 rifle and be almost $500 poorer.

I know lefty's don't have as many options, but none of the "upgrades" will make it shoot any better, nor increase value. I'd shoot it as is or trade it for something I liked better.
 
Jmr40 I value your feed back, the investment of money is considerable. Being lefty certainly complicated things. Is there a better left handed option for the money? I've read of many people very pleased with the model after a few up grades. I did see a savage 11/111 trophy hunter with a Nikon 3x9x40 bdc reticle with adjustable accu trigger and plastic stock for $579 + tax but I still need a short lop 12.75 that will still cost $160 + from boyds. Better deal than the axis with trigger and stock upgrade?

Thanks again
:)
 
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im thinking about ordering a better stock custom lop of 12 3/4 for my short arms( grade 1 claro walnut with high polish ) from boyds gunstocks for my savage axis 3006 and installing a timney trigger and a new leupold 3x9 scope. right now the bolt hits the scope bell and i seem to remember that the solution to that was higher rings like medium? so im thinking that with the prairie hunter version everything should work out. Is the price justifiable or should i just turn it in and buy a better rifle? Im a lefty. thanks for any ideas and inputs

3030

You've got a few things going on that aren't clear to me.
You say your bolt handle is hitting the rear objective of the scope- then you say you want to get a "new" Leupold... I'm guessing you're not replacing the same model scope with a newer one, so you need to find out the diameter of the rear objective of the Leupold you want- and compare it to what you have.

The issue may be non-existent if the Leupold is smaller, or may be worse than now, if larger. Then, you need to estimate how much more clearance (if any) you need. You may need tall rings, not mediums. And you don't want to go any higher than what's necessary to keep the scope as low to the bore as possible.

If you need a different stock for LOP that's one thing- but I'd stop there.

I'm not a lefty- but if that's an issue, and you don't need all the firepower of the .06, Remington makes the 700 in a Compact with an adjustable LOP one inch shorter than standard in .243 and 7-08.

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/51949/Remington+700+SPS+243+YOUTH+LH
 
tobnpr,

I have indeed removed my vortex crossfire II and borrowed the old man's leuupold rifleman 3x9x40 then installed my medium weaver rings with my pictnay 1 piece multil slot style base that arrived yesterday in the mail. with this set up i have no issues with bolt and scope so i know the new leupold will work out. with the prairie hunter stock from boyds i naturally get a higher cheek mount than a classic style. I have looked at the 7m 08 and dont like the fast light bullets. and lastly i have a lot of 3006 ammo too it would be a shame to give it all away.

as far as the 243, i hunt deer and black bear and and the occasional elk so i just dont think the 243 will work for me.
 
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