Savage trigger adjustment (not asked before)

G

Glockster35

New member
I was fiddling with my Savage 10 fp in .308 yesterday and was following along with an article by Claude Gatewood on trigger adjusting (can be read by following the link below) for the Savage.

VarmintHunters.com

I found that by adjusting the trigger pull weight, adjusting the overtravel screw and adjusting the trigger shoe I can easily get my gun to what I believe is about 1 lb pull weight (I don't have trigger weights at home).

I banged the gun on the floor (butt first), and slammed some dummy rounds through it, with no problems, it did not fire.

Is my Savage supposed to have an adjustable trigger shoe? His article talks about having to drill and tap one in place (or is this an old article). I would like to think I got the best deal on a Savage and there is no need for an aftermarket trigger, but is this normal. Will a Sharpshooter trigger be better in the long run?

I have several years of experience in gun maintenance (at home and work) and feel the trigger is safe enough for what I use the gun for (targets). I do plan on adding some thread lock to it to help it stay in place. Is this normal of newer Savage triggers?

Do Not Flame me and tell me it is unsafe, because I don't feel it is in anyway.
 
Good question. I wondered the same thing when I read that article a month or so ago. My 10FP has an adjustable trigger shoe too, so no need to drill and tap it. Maybe the article refers to older triggers???

I adjusted my trigger too, but I don't think I got it down to a pound. I haven't measured it, I'm just going by experience with other triggers. I would guess mine's somewhere around 3-4 lbs. I could get it lower but then there's no tension on the wire. There MUST be tension on the wire to be safe and that's why they recommend a lighter guage wire, 0.40" versus the 0.60" factory wire. Better to have a little tension on a lighter wire than NO tension on a heavier wire.

On the trigger shoe adjustment, if you go too far to take out the creep, it may not fire when you bang it, but try vigorously cycling the bolt numerous times. If the hammer drops, you've gone too far and you'll need to back off on the adjustment.

Another thing to keep in mind is that Savage triggers have a reputation for changing over time. That 1 lb. pull weight might feel great now, but how will it do after a couple hundred rounds when it's broke-in? I would check and recheck it unloaded every time before loading it up to shoot it.

I'm sticking with the factory trigger for now, but I'm sure you'd be happy with a Sharpshooter trigger if you decide to go that route. I've never heard a complaint about them.
 
I think you are right. I do need to add some more to it to keep it in line, but was just wondering if this trigger is normal.

I surely won't hunt with it this light, but at least it is adjustable. I would probably be better off with the SharpShooter trigger, but in all actuality I don't want to get one until I heard from users of the other brands or find someone who has tested several. Just because SharpShooter was the first, doesn't mean they are the best.

I am going to take it to work and test it on the weights and see what it is, hopefully I can get it up around 2-3 pounds and get it to stay put.

In the long run (after this hunting season) I will get a different trigger system for it. Maybe something I can write an article on for the other Savage users.

There is getting to be a large following on the FP guns and someone ought to open a board just for Savage Arms weapons. I'd subscribe.
 
savage trigger

my 11 7mm-08 has only two adjustments. pull weight and over travel.
my wife's 111 25-06 has all three.
both adjusted well enough to improve the trigger action quite alot.
IMHO:)
 
I re-adjusted it and took it out to the range, no problems and it made a big difference on my shot groups. I am happy for now.
 
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