Savage pillar blocks

I make my own pillars for Sav 110, Rem 700, and 98 Mausers.

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  • Home made Aluminium pillar from 0.5 in stock with trigger relief cut for early 70s Sav 110 9-16-.jpg
    Home made Aluminium pillar from 0.5 in stock with trigger relief cut for early 70s Sav 110 9-16-.jpg
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I make pillars for the Savage rifles regularly out of 1/8 black gas pipe nipples, I cut them ten thousands over and the rear one I split the rearward side about a 1/2 inch and bevel it to miss the sear... Works beautifully.!;)

P.S. I use Devcon 5 min epoxy,,,, and I girdle the pillars with a dremel tool cut off blade about 1/32 deep to get grip..
 
Got a drill press? Use 2" long pipe nipples from your friendly local hardware store. Chuck them in a drill press and use a hacksaw blade to cut them down. Then file/sand the ends smooth and cut some notches in them for the epoxy to grab on.
 
Got a drill press? Use 2" long pipe nipples from your friendly local hardware store. Chuck them in a drill press and use a hacksaw blade to cut them down. Then file/sand the ends smooth and cut some notches in them for the epoxy to grab on.
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I can't see any way that this could result in anything close to the precision required to get near 100% contact on the receiver and bottom metal surfaces and the .01 tolerance on length. You're going to end up with contact on only a small portion of the surface area.
 
Skim bedding fellas. Skim bedding. You will never be exact with cut pillars. You cannot get 100% contact with a reciever with precut pillars. You cut them a bit short and skim bed them when you glass them in. More precise than any cutting you'd ever be able to do. :D and closer to perfect contact on both sides.
 
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No argument with that, if the epoxy bedding of the receiver is correctly done. Solid epoxy will fill any "gaps" in contact, making it just as effective for 99% of us.

But, the OP did not say whether he was going to bed the action.
 
semi_problomatic
Skim bedding fellas. Skim bedding. You will never be exact with cut pillars. You cannot get 100% contact with a reciever with precut pillars. You cut them a bit short and skim bed them when you glass them in. More precise than any cutting you'd ever be able to do. and closer to perfect contact on both sides.
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I think if glass beds so that the only thing touching the barreled action is at the top of the pillars, the action screws, and at the back of the recoil lug, then the pillars had better fit well.

I think that with the boring bar cutting the radius to fit the action, a couple thousandths gap from an undersized radius pillar is a good idea. The action screws will make a couple hundred pounds of tension, the tips of the pillar will spread out, and we will get V block like force multiplying.

That is twice grip [at 45 degrees] that perfect glass bedding that touches the receiver can provide.

And as in shaving off wood to build a Stradivarius violin to get the loudest sound, the test in bedding is a high Q.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q_factor
I hold the rifle in one hand at the stock wrist, and smack the barrel with the palm of the other hand. It should sound like a slowly exponentially decaying sinusoidal.
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If it buzzes or damps too quickly, I chisel out the epoxy and start over.
 
Fellas, the ones made from pie nipples are fine IF your handy with handtools if not, better buy factory parts.;)

Semi problematic, I wrote the very same reply, however I purchase the longer nipples, you get more material for more pillars..:p
 
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