Savage model 340

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I'vebeenduped

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I bought this rifle in the mid 90's from an acquaintance of mine. He lost his head one night and, long story short, could not maintain firearms any more. At any rate, this sucker was a homely as these rifles come (acquaintance was too). I was in the military at the time and not really into bolt action rifles. It wasn't until about 3 years ago where I even bothered to take it out shooting. It did fairly well. It should be a given that I am not very attached to this rifle although I understand that they are fairly good. My problem is this and forgive me if my terminology is off; When I pull the bolt to the rear, inside the chamber there are some small burrs. I noticed this years ago since, although I had not shot it back then, I still rubbed oil on it from time to time and some of the cloth would snag on it. Cycling the bolt is still fairly easy but it feels no where near smooth like my Mauser. In fact, by comparison, it takes effort but no where near forced if that makes any bit of sense. I know that this is not a very fair comparison as I understand that Mauser's have a pretty decent action. I know that this rifle is not worth too much, although this one has a pretty low serial#. I also know that it is pretty tough for a doctor to diagnose a heart condition if he can't get his hands on you. Is something like this difficult and expensive to fix? Is it even worth it?
 
Savage 340 rifles have a pretty good reputation for accuracy, but they are difficult to attach a scope to and the triggers are very rough. They are well-built and rugged, but will never win any beauty contests. Most of them you find will have been carried much and shot little. Many were first deer rifles and were left behind as the kids grew up. To say they are homely is a compliment (as Randy Newman said- Mama says she's plain but that's just bein' kind, Papa says she's pretty but he's almost blind, can't take her out much except at night).

If you have a burr in the chamber, it can be polished out. You will never smooth out the bolt. It will never be a Mauser, but it might be a good truck gun. Don't sand the stock, it will never look right again.
 
hey hey hey, dont be mean. Homely girls need love too.
Besides where else you gona get a 30-30 to shoot pointy bullets with?

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Nice grouping! Is that at 100 yds? I thought I could only shoot ball type ammo out of this rascal! I am glad to see proof otherwise. I read somewhere that she doesn't feed pointy rounds very well. Any other tips or recommendations that you can give me on my aesthetically challenged rifle? Where did you get the mount? Does it hold zero long or does it drift after a few shots? I only put around 8 shots through mine before the ejector didn't want to let go of my brass anymore. I cleaned the heck out of it and haven't shot her since.
 
Its made for it. It is a weaver base and rings, with a Bushnell Banner 4 power scope ( perfect match by the way)

Late model 340's are pre drilled for the mount.
Mine was a earlier gun so was not pre drilled.
The mount is a Weaver side 1H.

I had a Gunsmith put it on. he has to relieve the stock and drill the holes.
Charged me 50 bucks. Was worth it. Its whole new gun with that scope.
All the old timer gun smiths around here are well versed on the 340.
He had done hundreds of them.

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The ejector doesn't have a hold on the brass in the first place. The extractor does that. The ejector is what knocks the shell loose from the extractor as the bolt face passes it near the end of the rearward stroke. If the extractor is pulling the empty out of the chamber it is doing its duty. Check the ejector and spring. It is mounted on the inside of the receiver on the lower left side.
 
oldgunsmith

Thanks for the info. Yes, the extractor is doing the job it is supposed to be. The ejector is not. I haven't cycled any ammunition in it since that last happened. I cleaned the nonsense out of it though and hopefully that was curative. I may cycle some rounds through it tonight and see if it fixed it or not. If it did not, I will certainly heed your advice.
 
savage 340

I just found your article
do you still have the rifle, are you interested in selling
please let me know
I am in need of the trigger assembly
thanks
 
I didn't look up the load you have written on the target, but be mindful of how hot you load for that Savage. The bolt has only one lug, and it's probably not a good idea to give it too much work to do.
 
I was interested in the comment about low serial number. Mine, made I think in the fifties, has no serial number. None of the earlier 340s had a serial number, and I have heard that none of the 30-30s ever did. Could be wrong. The Weaver side mount is solid as a rock, if well installed. The gas shield passes through the split receiver ring and acts as a bolt guide when the bolt is cycled. Know what other gun has a feature like this? The Krag-Jorgensen. In the Krag, the strip steel extractor passes through the split receiver ring and guides the bolt. Know what rifle most folks think has the smoothest action ever? The Krag-Jorgensen. Think your Model 340 is not smooth? Cycle the bolt a few hundred times to wear down the tool marks. Probably never be as smooth as a Krag, but it will not be rough.
 
Ejectors on the 340s are notorous for being troublesome. You might need to replace it (assuming you can find replacement parts).
 
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What a coincidence, I was just examining my Springfield 840, which is nearly the same rifle as a Savage 340.

While making this post I ordered one of the side mounts and side mount rings.
 

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The 340 bolt has only one lug, but the bolt handle seats deep into a notch in the receiver. I don't recall whether it is set up to bear, but regardless it would act as a very strong safety lug. I would have no concerns about 340 safety with any reasonable loads in the original calibers.

Jim
 
On mine, the bolt handle does not bear on the notch, and I think that is the way they were set up. I agree, James K., no problem with the strength of the 340 with its standard chamberings. The single lug is a good-sized one and the bolt notch adds protection.
 
A rough bolt action can be smoothed up by taking the action out of the stock, clamping the barrel in a padded vise, pouring fine emery powder (valve grinding compound) into the action and working the bolt a few times.

Wash the compound out by sloshing the action in a bucket of cleaner, disassemble the bolt if needed to completely clean it, and the action will be nice and smooth. (Don't get carried away - you just want to smooth things up, not increase the headspace or wear through surface hardening.)

Jim
 
I never saw too many around this area. I always wanted to pick up a junker and convert to .22 Hi Power. "THE GUN PARTS CORPORATION" used to carry the sheet metal stamping scope base for the 340. I never used one on a 340 but they worked well on Carcanos.
 
Hi From A255dean I love my 340E .223. Trigger may not be the best but what else will give us the pleasure of poking holes in paper so "cheap" I've put many rounds thru mine with NO problems. Its prettier than the AR's A255dean
 
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