I currently have 22-250 in a mod 12 and want to chamber it for a 260 rem. I can grab a shaw barrel for $189 threaded for a savage. Its my first time re chambering a gun and just getting into Lr shooting so i'm new to all of this. What else would I need to do to the action to convert it to 260? I also plan on truing and bedding the action. I already have a trigger job and b/c stock
Savage model 12 re chambering ???s
- Thread starter brett119
- Start date
longranger
New member
$189.00 sounds like the barrel is not contoured or chambered or both that will need to be done,bluing if not S.S.Head spacing the action and barrel.
reynolds357
New member
I would not worry too much about blueprinting a Savage action. They seem to work about as well out of the box as they are going to work. I would definitely do no more than adding a custom bolt head. Anything else seems to be a waste of time.
Go gauge, shim, and barrel nut wrench are about all you need to do the conversion. Shaw barrels would be questionable for an accuracy intended rifle.
Go gauge, shim, and barrel nut wrench are about all you need to do the conversion. Shaw barrels would be questionable for an accuracy intended rifle.
Heres a link to the site http://www.gunshack.com/savagebarrels?product_id=284 It says its chambered. Correct me if im wrong but All I need is to get head space gauges and barrel nut wrench to be able to install the barrel even tho it was a 22-250 action?
EDIT I wont be doing shooting matches but would like it to be within .5-.75 moa. It will be used for steel out to 1000
EDIT I wont be doing shooting matches but would like it to be within .5-.75 moa. It will be used for steel out to 1000
4runnerman
New member
Brett- You for sure want to get a new barrel nut. Savage stock ones are ok,but get a machined one,you will not regret it. Tip--Spend a little more on your barrel if you plan on shooting for long range accuracy.
Try McGowen Barrel Outlet they guarantee one week delivery on Savage Pre-Fit barrels. However if you want anything custom like flutes and a brake you're going to wait at least 14 weeks for delivery.
I run a McGowen Varmint contour barrel on my .243 Stevens 200.
It has been recently shooting like this at 100 yards.
It shoots like this at 300 yards as well.
I built this rifle for around $1800 total with the Vortex 6.5-20X44 PA scope after I sold off a few of the take off parts.
While a machined nut is nice it isn't necessary especially if you aren't going to true up the receiver. A squared and true machined recoil nut and recoil lug is great but if it doesn't have a square surface to mate up to then what is the point? You're looking at on average less than $50 to square an action, so why not do it? On my rifle I had the action squared as well as the factory nut cost me a total of $55 out the door and I bought a machined recoil lug from Jim Briggs of Northalnd Shooter Supply.
I'd even go as far as lapping the lugs and squaring the bolt face up on my next build. It really doesn't cost a lot of money in the long run. With the floating bolt head some will argue that this is not necessary but what can it hurt to have everything in a straight line and squared up?
I run a McGowen Varmint contour barrel on my .243 Stevens 200.
It has been recently shooting like this at 100 yards.
It shoots like this at 300 yards as well.
I built this rifle for around $1800 total with the Vortex 6.5-20X44 PA scope after I sold off a few of the take off parts.
While a machined nut is nice it isn't necessary especially if you aren't going to true up the receiver. A squared and true machined recoil nut and recoil lug is great but if it doesn't have a square surface to mate up to then what is the point? You're looking at on average less than $50 to square an action, so why not do it? On my rifle I had the action squared as well as the factory nut cost me a total of $55 out the door and I bought a machined recoil lug from Jim Briggs of Northalnd Shooter Supply.
I'd even go as far as lapping the lugs and squaring the bolt face up on my next build. It really doesn't cost a lot of money in the long run. With the floating bolt head some will argue that this is not necessary but what can it hurt to have everything in a straight line and squared up?
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I'm building it for this up coming spring so I don't mind waiting. The more I keep reading I think im gonna go all out and do it right the first time around. If I save up for another few months I can probably spend 2500 or so instead of 12. I have my barrel choices down to Brux, Douglass, Krieger and Mcgowen they all seem to be within the same price. I'm going to have it fluted and a brake installed.
Since im upping my budget I will have the receiver squared off and a better recoil lug. Lap the lugs and make sure the bolt face is squared up. Or do you think a custom action could be had if I upped my price range to 3k?
Since im upping my budget I will have the receiver squared off and a better recoil lug. Lap the lugs and make sure the bolt face is squared up. Or do you think a custom action could be had if I upped my price range to 3k?
I already have a good bedded stock with a timney trigger and muller tac scope so minus that from my budget and I might just be able to go custom action. I won't be doing competitions right off the bat but would like to eventually get into them down the road so I don't want to be re doing a gun cause I skimped out the 1st time around
4runnerman
New member
At that price-Just Buy a New savage F class rifle in 6 or 6.5.
brett119 said:
First off all the money in the world isn't going to buy accuracy for the shooter. If you build a .25 MOA gun but your only a 1.5 MOA shooter that is all your ever going to be. Gunny Hathcock made his name with a M70 Winchester .30-06 that was consistently a 2 MOA rifle, he was able to maximize the potential of his rifle.
Second, I don't know anyone who makes a custom action that will fit a Savage footprint in your stock. If you go custom action you'll have to get a new stock, most custom actions use a M700 footprint because of the options they afford the user. That means all you're left with is a Muller scope.
If I were you I'd build your rifle with good components, and a good barrel and chamber will go a long way. Have the action trued up, put a good base and rings on it, possibly update the scope. Re-bed the action to your stock after you install the barrel and go shooting.
Spend some of that money buying a good quality set of reloading equipment for your rifle. Learn to reload if you don't know how to already, and find what your rifle likes to digest for bullets and powder. That will do you a world more good than putting $3K into a rifle build.
I shoot my Shaw-barreled 7-08 out to 1000 yards and it's no "slouch", at a little better than a 3/4 minute barrel.
If you don't require better accuracy, they represent a good value. You don't "need" to spend $400-$600 on a barrel to shoot, regardless of what the barrel "snobs" will tell ya.
For some, like me currently, it still shoots better than I can. That won't always be the case. However, if you've got the coin to burn, go for it- you'll certainly not regret it.
How good a shooter are you? Do you handload?
Doesn't make much sense to put together a 1/4 minute rifle to shoot minute of angle factory ammo...
Keep it all in perspective.
If you don't require better accuracy, they represent a good value. You don't "need" to spend $400-$600 on a barrel to shoot, regardless of what the barrel "snobs" will tell ya.
For some, like me currently, it still shoots better than I can. That won't always be the case. However, if you've got the coin to burn, go for it- you'll certainly not regret it.
How good a shooter are you? Do you handload?
Doesn't make much sense to put together a 1/4 minute rifle to shoot minute of angle factory ammo...
Keep it all in perspective.
Txhillbilly
New member
I've shot barrels from Shilen,McGowen,Hart,E.R Shaw,and Pac-Nor over the years in several different calibers.
While the E.R.Shaw barrels are on the cheaper side of the scale,they lack very little in the accuracy dept.
I have zero complaints about a E.R.Shaw barrel. They might not shoot as good as some higher priced Cut Rifling barrels that have been hand lapped to perfection,but everyone of them that I've installed on my rifles will shoot sub-moa groups with hand loads.
I'm currently using 2 Shaw barrels,a 7mm-08 that avg's around .750" groups at 100 yards,and a 6.5 Creedmoor that has a best group of .122",and you won't get much better than that out of any barrel.
While the E.R.Shaw barrels are on the cheaper side of the scale,they lack very little in the accuracy dept.
I have zero complaints about a E.R.Shaw barrel. They might not shoot as good as some higher priced Cut Rifling barrels that have been hand lapped to perfection,but everyone of them that I've installed on my rifles will shoot sub-moa groups with hand loads.
I'm currently using 2 Shaw barrels,a 7mm-08 that avg's around .750" groups at 100 yards,and a 6.5 Creedmoor that has a best group of .122",and you won't get much better than that out of any barrel.
4runnerman
New member
^^^^^^^^^ what he said for sure