Got this from a forum a while back:
Using a 1/4" allen wrench, unscrew the back of the bolt all the way out. Take the handle off. If you're the belt and suspenders type, mark the handle and bolt with a Sharpie to make it easier to put back together. The large black round black thing sticking out of the side of the bolt is the cocking piece pin. It's kept in place by the cocking piece sleeve under it. The sleeve has a slot in it and at the front of that slot is a round hole that let's you take the pin out. Slide the sleeve to the rear of the bolt with your right index finger and wiggle the pin with your left hand when the sleeve is as far back as it goes. The pin will come out easily when you get to the hole.
Once the pin is out, the sleeve and firing pin/spring just slide out the back.
To re-assemble, just reverse the steps. The only thing vaguely tricky about putting it back together is getting the hole in the sleeve lined up with the hole in the firing pin. Just use a dull pencil to get them aligned.
The bolt handle looks like it would go on four different ways. Two are obviously wrong (the flat part of the handle is toward the front of the bolt). The other wrong way isn't quite so obvious. For a right handled bolt you want the Savage logo at twelve oclock and the handle at about three o'clock... maybe 3:30 or quarter of four. If you had used the Sharpie this wouldn't be a problem.
Before you screw the whole shebang back together, make sure the cocking piece pin is in the cocked position (sitting the little notch in the rear of the sleeve or as clockwise as it will go when looking at it from the rear). If you don't the bolt won't go in the receiver since the pin goes in the same groove as the lug. When you screw it all back together with your fingers it will go so far and then seem to stop. It's just the firing pin spring getting compressed and should turn pretty easily with the allen wrench. It shouldn't get really hard to turn until the handle is firmly tightened to the bolt, at which point you're done.
