Savage 99F, a little frustrating.

J

JJ45

New member
I acquired one made in 55' in 300 Savage, unfired. Mounted a Bushnell Scopechief 2 3/4X with the old Command Post reticle. Also mounted fore end screw-sling swivel and keep a consistent tension on it. If you own one, I don't have to describe the sweet handling character of the weapon.

The rifle is a little frustrating shooting from a bench. It is very accurate but wants to change it's zero considerably. I suspect temperature/humidity might effect it to some extent more than other guns. The scope is proven. I mounted it on another rifle and shot it on consecutive days to confirm it's not the scope.

I load Sierra 150gr RN Pro Hunters and 42gr Varget

I have other deer rifles but none is as finicky about holding zero. I'll zero the rifle then when I shoot it again, maybe a few weeks later, it will be 6" high or 4 inches high and 4" right, etc,etc..

Does anyone have experience or suggestions on shooting the 99F
 
Be very careful of how you bag the rifle paying particular attention to fore end pressure. The way the fore stock is tightened should be consistent after any removal. I almost bought a 284 99 years ago until I noticed it had a loose barrel! Not saying this is your problem but strange things can happen.
 
I have a Savage 99 in 300 savage cal with a tang mounted peep sight and it never changes zero. Take a look at the scope. That could be the problem.
 
The scope is proven. I mounted it on another rifle and shot it on consecutive days to confirm it's not the scope.
Click to expand...

You have confirmed it's not the scope but what about the scope mounting system?

Also as has been suggested check other things mechanical on the rifle.

I've had one Savage 99 scoped rifle in 300 Savage caliber, it would group a little under an inch on my good days with my handloads, I never had any trouble with the groups moving around.

I have three Savage 99's now but all them are using some form of iron sights.
 
My friend Clay has a 250 that is a "head scratcher."
It scatters bullets over about 6"-7" at 100 yards until I removed the wood for-arm completely.
Then it shoots into 1".
We have tried several things to get the for-arm to work on the rifle but have failed every time.
But every time we remove it the rifle shoots extremely well, so we know the problem is in the wood being screwed onto the barrel. I even resorted to cutting a full clearance between the wood and the receiver. That HAD to fix it....right?
Wrong!
Still won't shoot.
So clay now carries the old 99 with no wood forward of the receiver at all.

My Dad had a 99 in 300 and it shot 2" at 100 consistently.
MY friend in Shoshoni Brant has a 308 that shoots into sub 2" groups.
I have a friend in New Mexico that has a 300 that shoots into 1.5 2 consistently.
So 99s can be very good.
But some are "possessed".
 
This is going to sound dumb. but it might be you readjusting. When I pull any rifle style out that does not have a really good "Fit" to my shoulder and cheek and I have not fired it for a while, it seems I always have to adjust the zero. I still have over a dozen 99's and had a lot more over the years. About half of them are take downs. Some of the T/Ds have scopes and they retain zero. Two of the T/Ds have tip off scopes and they retain zero. 99's are notorious for not fitting a shooter well with a scope mounted on them. It could be that, OR it could be what the others said, the forearm does not fit well and it is putting pressure on the barrel when you tighten it. Some guys put a rubber washer on the screw between the forearm and barrel. I can't say if that works or not. I am for shaving a little wood out and bedding with epoxy if I see a problem.
 
Gunplummer may have something there. I own both a Winchester 88 in .308 and Savage 99EG in 300 Savage, handload for both, and both are scoped. I got the Winchester first and fell in love with the feel as it just fits me perfectly. When I got the Savage I noticed it didn't quite fit me as naturally and it takes a few rounds for me to settle into the feel of it before I can make it perform.
 
Thanks a lot, all good advice and ideas .

Remember, this is a 99F for featherweight. It has the skinniest 22" barrel imaginable. Some 99s have relatively heavy barrels.

The fore end is very slim also....I might shoot it w/o the fore end just to see what happens but it's certainly not an accuracy problem, it just won't hold zero.

I was thinking that since the tube and fore end is so skinny that heat might affect it more than usual even tho I try to let it cool down some between shots. The last shots are when it's zeroed and barrel is warmest but not hot, then when I next shoot it the barrel is cold.

Can anyone tell if this might be part of the problem?
 
I have a .358 "F" model. It seems to shoot OK. I am not saying it cannot be the forearm. If it is low at the screw, it will flex the barrel. It is amazing how many people shoot them better with open sights than with a scope.
 
Again, it's not an accuracy issue. The rifle is a capable 1.5 to 2", three shot grouper with the low power 2 3/4X20 scope

I have found the Sierra 150 PH Spitzers a little more accurate than their same weight round nose but I like the round nose for bush hunting whitetails....so accuracy, within reason, is not even a consideration as much as a reliable zero...Thanks for the advice

But as you know, it's a matter of me not trusting it to hold zero. I'll keep messing with it....
 
are you using the sling when shooting??

Benching the rifle consistently? Weeks apart??

Some 99s are sweet, some are just...odd.
 
One of the three 99's I now have is a "F" model in 300 Savage caliber.
I've never taken the time to bench rest the gun, however at 100 yards standing unsupported I have no problem hitting and breaking clay pigeons.

I know that's a 4 inch target, being in my senior years, old eyesight and using an iron sighted rifle, I figure that's pretty good for me.
I know I would have no trouble taking a deer at the yardages I would be shooting deer with the "F" model.

My "F" model is drilled and tapped for scope mounting, however I like the looks and feel of 99's without a scope so mine will stay as is, no glass.
I have other rifles with glass other then my "F" model that would be a better choice for longer range shooting if needed.
 
try resting rifle without the fore end touching your fron bag. dome ruger no1s habe same issues.
one of thier solutions is a modified pressure screw for forward recoil lug.
 
There are two says of screws either of which can be loose. One set holds the scope to the mount, the other holds the mount to the rifle.

If either is loose that would account for your wandering zero. Try to twist the scope with your hands so as to adjust the cant. If it noticeably moves it's the one that's too loose. Otherwise, tighten the other.
 
Loose base/rings would be the first area one would check.

stillquietvoice- that is the best idea. On another forum a poster implied that a 99F, that is F, is better sighted in using your hand as a cushion under the front bag. Gripping the skinny fore end as you would when shooting off hand. The usual bench technique not so effective.

All good advice-Thanks
 
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