Savage 487T feed issues..

Big Pard

New member
Fellas I have a Savage/Stevens 487T. I am told that this is the same as the Stevens 187. I have cleaned the gun thoroughly and don't see any broken or odd looking parts but the gun is having feeding issues. Oddly, it doesn't have these issues when I work the action by hand.. I have enclosed a pic to help explain the problem.

20160605_120403_zpser4lterb.jpg
 
I would say it is the lips on the feed throat. That works the same as the lips on a magazine, and when they're off, they will cause a cartridge to tip up like that. It comes out at too steep of an angle, and the bullet hits the top of the chamber. Savage calls it a Magazine Guide, and is part number 47 on their schematic at Numrich, for a model 187, which is the same, I'm pretty sure. They are out of this part, so you'll have to carefully adjust the lips with pliers, by slightly closing the lips in, and keep trying it. Also, if I recall, this is spot welded together, and made of thin sheet metal. Make sure the weld hasn't broken (if it is welded), and has allowed it to open up, which will cause the same problem.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SavageStevensSpringfieldFox-33479/Rifles-40502/187Series-39701/187SeriesA-33833.htm?page=3

These are great .22 rifles, and to me, they are worth the fix.
 
bumper

I think your missing the "bumper" It protrudes back off the rear of the barrel into a recess in the bolt face at the top 12 o'clock newer models had one that was made like a wire loop that broke off before many rounds were fired. You can retrofit it to the older style wedge with a spring and the rifle will run pretty reliably Half the fun of those rifles is getting them to run reliably, a little lube in all the parts that move helps, I've also used some graphite,, try a box of CCI mini mags, those guns are amo picky too. This may not be proper but I put a drop of oil on the tip of the first round in the mag and that seems to make it run for a while. Those guns are old enough to have worn parts and weak springs but it seems like there is a lot of mass to the mechanism so a full power round with a full weight bullet The other thing that you need to look at is make sure your extractors are sharp and free to move but look on line at a exploded view drawing at the bumper I think it is part number 22 on numerichs diagram
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Thanks for the feed back guys. I am curious as to why she will work fine when manually cycling the action as opposed to working on its own..
 
why she will work fine when manually cycling the action as opposed to working on its own

The lifter, part 46, works much slower and with less force when cycling it by hand, than it does when fired. You will see the lifter down inside the magazine guide. It pivots up at the rear, and works off a spring, that holds it in place. There is a cam on it, that the bolt hits, when going back, that makes it push the shell up, plus cuts the one off in front of it, in the magazine tube, when the bolt is back far enough. If the guide lips are apart too much, on the guide, it will force the cartridge up too much at the front, over it.

The force from hand feeding to firing, is about the same difference as tapping a nail with a hammer, and pounding on it. That is why I wonder if it may have sprang open, with a spot weld broken. That, or it has opened up gradually over time. Either way, the part can be fixed.

If I remember correctly, this magazine guide acts similar to a Harrington & Richardson box magazine design, in one of their .22 bolt actions that they produced. The lips are at the rear of the magazine guide, instead of at the front. Those hold the cartridge in line with the chamber, until the bolt has started the bullet into the chamber, then the rim comes up out of two narrow slots, one on either side, as it is pushed on into the chamber. The Ruger guide works similar to this, except it is a rotary magazine.

On the H&R, they had their box magazine held together, by peening over locking tabs on the four edges, similar to riveting. They would work loose, allowing those lips to open up, and you would essentially get the same problem. I used to put a small tack weld on them, after I closed the magazine body back together with a C-clamp, then grind them flush.

On the 187, and the older models, that guide is formed, by rolling the sheet metal into a tube at the front, and there is a seam at the top, where it fits to the magazine tube. That is where it might be spreading open. Also, make sure the mounting screws are tight, that holds it onto the bottom of the receiver. Those screws hold the guide together, and stop it from moving, at the rear.

If you can't get it to work, and since Numrich is out, take a look on eBay or Guns America for the part, as you can sometimes find those parts there.
 
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