Savage 24v .223/20 gauge will not fire
- Thread starter TCgungeek
- Start date
g.willikers
New member
Doubtful if a gun that won't shoot with a half cocked hammer is normal.
I used to have the .222/20gauge version, but it's been so long ago my advice is probably worthless.
But maybe there's some info on it around here.
If so, I'll report back.
Here's a good source of info, including parts views and fix it tips:
http://www.cylindersmith.com/savage24/FAQ.html
I used to have the .222/20gauge version, but it's been so long ago my advice is probably worthless.
But maybe there's some info on it around here.
If so, I'll report back.
Here's a good source of info, including parts views and fix it tips:
http://www.cylindersmith.com/savage24/FAQ.html
Last edited:
Minor problems, poor performance
I have owned a number of these but never a CF/CF. Have encountered a related problem and it was due to a dirty firing pin pocket that did not allow for full travel to the primer. Another occasion, I resolved this problem buy replacing the hammer spring. You should be able to tell if you are getting a good primer strike. Is your selector hammer mounted or frame mounted. Might add that I have never had one of these beauties, that did not have some kind of a problem. Might want to take it to an area Smith, for fixing. These are not all that complicated or hard to fix and the defect should be minor. ....
Please get back to us on the fix and;
Be Safe !!!
I have owned a number of these but never a CF/CF. Have encountered a related problem and it was due to a dirty firing pin pocket that did not allow for full travel to the primer. Another occasion, I resolved this problem buy replacing the hammer spring. You should be able to tell if you are getting a good primer strike. Is your selector hammer mounted or frame mounted. Might add that I have never had one of these beauties, that did not have some kind of a problem. Might want to take it to an area Smith, for fixing. These are not all that complicated or hard to fix and the defect should be minor. ....
Please get back to us on the fix and;
Be Safe !!!
Does it fire on the other barrel?
Mine broke a firing pin after 30 years. I replace it.
Open the firearm, put your finger over each firing pin hole and fire it seeing if you can feel the pin hit your finger.
Parts are available.
I have a 222/20 and a 22 rimfire/410
David
As stupid as it is, does it have a cross bolt safety? One of mine does. Stupid, stupid stupid on a hammer gun.
Mine broke a firing pin after 30 years. I replace it.
Open the firearm, put your finger over each firing pin hole and fire it seeing if you can feel the pin hit your finger.
Parts are available.
I have a 222/20 and a 22 rimfire/410
David
As stupid as it is, does it have a cross bolt safety? One of mine does. Stupid, stupid stupid on a hammer gun.
Won't help much but the manual is here.
http://stevespages.com/pdf/savage_24_combination_rifle_shotgun.pdf
You have a barrel selected?
http://stevespages.com/pdf/savage_24_combination_rifle_shotgun.pdf
You have a barrel selected?
When you flip the selector, the hammer hits the other firing pin. Is the selector broken? I saw one break. Savage sent me a new one free. 
All you need is an allan wrench to take out the firing pins. It could be stuck in junk or it could be broken.
If the shotgun fires, then its the selector or the rifle firing pin.
David
All you need is an allan wrench to take out the firing pins. It could be stuck in junk or it could be broken.
If the shotgun fires, then its the selector or the rifle firing pin.
David
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
If the firing pin selector snaps into place, at the top, and does not easily rock or move, then I would say that it is working, since it is firing the bottom barrel. In actuality, the selector hits the bottom firing pin with a little more force than the upper, over its increased radius from the hammer pin, or its pivot point. When its up, it looses a little force over this, but not much.
First, there is a possibility that it could be a weak hammer spring, or rust or dirt keeping the hammer from easily revolving around the hammer pin, or rust or gunk on the springs guide rod (plunger). It should not be loose, as if it could move backwards under no spring pressure. I would take the stock off, and look for a deformed or collapsed hammer spring.
Second, if you have tried other ammo, and the hammer spring is okay, then I would then say that it is either a fouled up, (dirty or rusty), or bad, upper firing pin spring, the nose of the firing pin not shaped right, or it is too short.
The nose of both firing pins should have a domed end, with no flat spot on the tip.
One test you could do, if the hammer spring is okay, is below.
1. push the bottom firing pin in, until it is where it would be, if hit by the selector. Measure the pins length, sticking out from the breech face. Use a business card, and mark a line with a pin, if you don't have something like a caliper handy, to use for depth measurement.
2. Do the same with the top, and see if the top firing pin protrudes through the breech face as far as the bottom.
3. If the top doesn't protrude as far, then it is not right.
You should be able to easily mash both firing pins in, to where they protrude the same, with a screwdriver, etc, from in front of the hammer, with it cocked. If the top does not mash in easily, then I would suspect dirt, rust, or a bad spring.
First, there is a possibility that it could be a weak hammer spring, or rust or dirt keeping the hammer from easily revolving around the hammer pin, or rust or gunk on the springs guide rod (plunger). It should not be loose, as if it could move backwards under no spring pressure. I would take the stock off, and look for a deformed or collapsed hammer spring.
Second, if you have tried other ammo, and the hammer spring is okay, then I would then say that it is either a fouled up, (dirty or rusty), or bad, upper firing pin spring, the nose of the firing pin not shaped right, or it is too short.
The nose of both firing pins should have a domed end, with no flat spot on the tip.
One test you could do, if the hammer spring is okay, is below.
1. push the bottom firing pin in, until it is where it would be, if hit by the selector. Measure the pins length, sticking out from the breech face. Use a business card, and mark a line with a pin, if you don't have something like a caliper handy, to use for depth measurement.
2. Do the same with the top, and see if the top firing pin protrudes through the breech face as far as the bottom.
3. If the top doesn't protrude as far, then it is not right.
You should be able to easily mash both firing pins in, to where they protrude the same, with a screwdriver, etc, from in front of the hammer, with it cocked. If the top does not mash in easily, then I would suspect dirt, rust, or a bad spring.
If you could do this without instantly cussing and figuring out that you were only going to do that once due to the pain, then you don't have enough spring.
With the hammer down, pull the trigger and with your thumb push the hammer into the firing pin (action open) they will protrude about .080", if everything is ok and you can push them back with your finger if they are not bound up.
You have to drill your own. Cock the hammer and drill a small hole straight through the plunger and guide rod. Once the hole is there you can insert a piece of stiff wire and when you pull the trigger the entire spring assembly can be removed.
You will need to be able to cock the hammer just a bit farther than the position it is in when you drill in order to relieve the pressure on the slave pin to get it out again. I *think* the normal cocked position allows this, but it's been a while since the last time I drilled one.