Savage 24 sights?

B

Burton

Inactive
Newbie here, first post.

I just picked up a Savage 24V-A in .222/20 for a survival gun. At 56, my eyes (never good) need a scope. But I'd also like to be able to use the shotgun decently. I've seen a hi-rise scope mount on Gunbroker.com, and it allows one to see the iron sights. Anyone out there know how well they work? I've not had it to the range yet, but if it shoots okay I want to get a chamber insert for it to shoot .22 LR, too. BTW, the stock has been cut down to fit a youth, so I want to get a replacement and make it like the Camper model with a trapdoor butt. I gave $350--a bit high perhaps--but it is in near mint condition other than the shortened stock. Any input on the scope/site issue? Thank you!
 
See through mounts are one of those things that seem like a good idea, but in practice don't work at all. They put the scope too high for a proper fit and if you need to make a quick shot the last thing you need is to have to make a decision between the iron sights and the scope.

I'd get a weaver base (#74) and some quick detach rings. Take the scope off when you want to shoot the shotgun. You're not going to be able to do any decent wingshooting with a scope on the gun, no matter how it's mounted.
 
I've got a 24-F, same gun in .22 Hornet over 12ga. I bought it specifically for turkey hunting. It wears see-through rings with a low-power scope sighted in for the .22 hornet and the iron sights sighted in for the shotgun. When I put the Weaver base on it, the factory iron sights were hidden. The solution was to put on a set of taller iron sights.

Yes, the higher scope mount is not perfect for accuracy. However, that .22 Hornet barrel is not very accurate anyway. With factory Rem SP ammo, I'm getting groups of about 3+ inches at 100 yds. Since I consider the Hornet to be about a 100 yd gun, it suits my needs. 3" inches is good enough for either a turkey's body or a hog's ear.
 
Maybe a red dot would be a better solution. It would work with both. It won't give you tack driving accuracy but would work for most hunting applications with both rifle and shotgun.
 
thanks

Thank you for the input! Still not quite sure what I'm going to do, but this gives me some direction to look. The suggestion of the low power shotgun scope is interesting. I'm thinking of having a gunsmith cut the barrels a bit shorter and set the shotgun barrel up for screw-in chokes. With this, it would be nice to be able to put in the full choke and be able to get some distance for turkey or ducks/geese. But in a pinch could one use the low power scope for birds flying over? Thanks! (My only scope experience is high power rifles.)
 
But in a pinch could one use the low power scope for birds flying over?
Click to expand...

Not likely. You could never acquire your target quickly enough. Plus, the two barrels on a 24 are generally poorly regulated. Barrel regulation in a double-barreled gun is having both shoot to the same point of impact at your chosen distance. Therefore, having a scope sighted in for the rifle barrel is probably not going to work for shooting the shotgun barrel.
 
But in a pinch could one use the low power scope for birds flying over?
Click to expand...

No. You need to look at the target and swing the shotgun in front of it. No matter how you mount it a scope would just be in the way.

The term "shotgun scope" means that the scope is set up for short range use. They are used for applications where a shotgun is fired like a rifle such as slug shooting at deer or hunting turkeys. They are not used for wingshooting.
 
Not regulated, but....

Finally got some .222 ammo and 20 gauge slugs. I didn't have time to go to the range and do a decent job of it, but shot out back...about 40 yards with no decent rest. We found that the rifle barrel and the shotgun slugs are within a few inches of each other by sighting the .222 as one should in the bottom of the sight, and then hold the top of the blade at the top of the rear sight. I haven't hardly shot a shotgun since I was a teen, and never shot slugs before. My, they punch quite a hole!

The accuracy the way it is, of course, is not acceptable, and I'm going to need to scope it. Thanks for the input on the shotgun scopes, went looking online. The Burris shotgun scope looks like a good scope at a reasonable price, (under $200).

The scope rings are pretty cheap compared to the scope. I might just get the see-through rings along with the standard, and see if I could live with them. That way I could have open sights for the slugs for short range, and the scope for the rifle barrel to get some distance.

THanks for the help!
 
If you look on the gun If it's like all the others I've seen it says "remove scope before shooting shotgun barrel" or something like that. Things may have improved but I've seen scopes go airborne of M24's before. FYI see thru scope bases do not give you a good sight picture with irons and put the scope up too high to be useful so you get 1/2 @$$ use of both sights and loose utitlity. Maybe a peep sight from williams would help you.

On trimming the barrels. You may not be able to put choke tubes in your piece as the 20 ga barrels ar a bit thin.

You mentioned waterfowl. Don't shoot steel out of a M24 not made for it. Stick with lead and bismuth.
 
If you look on the gun If it's like all the others I've seen it says "remove scope before shooting shotgun barrel" or something like that.
Click to expand...

That warning appears on rimfire 24s with grooves for a .22 scope. Centerfire 24s like the OP's use proper screw on bases and can handle 20 ga recoil.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top