Does anyone know what kind of feeding mechinism this rifle has? I am inheriting one from my Father, which belonged to my Great-Grandfather. Planning to have a gunsmith look at it to make sure it's in proper working order before placing a few rounds down-range with it. I've been told that it is quite an impressive weapon, especially for larger game. Also, break-down instructions would be helpful. Thanks.
Savage 1899 .300 made in 1926.
- Thread starter Legrasse
- Start date
The original Savage 99 magazine is a five shot rotary spool. Rounds are inserted through the breech, then pressed down and to the side, rotating the magazine follower until the magazine is full. Then the bolt is closed, chambering the first (last to be inserted) round. There is a cartridge count indicator in the left front of the receiver showing the number of rounds in the magazine, a nice feature.
Later versions of the rifle dropped both the neat (and very expensive) rotary magazine and the cartridge counter in favor of a plain detachable box magazine.
The .300 Savage is less powerful than the .308 Winchester, but not by a lot. In fact, the .300 Savage was the basis of the .308 but the military rejected it because the short neck could not hold the bullet well enough for proper functioning through machineguns. It is adequate for any game in North America.
One note. The trigger pull on older rifles is usually pretty good, but I strongly recommend not trying to adjust it or work on it. An error in that area can result in the rifle firing before it is locked, wrecking the rifle and possibly injuring the shooter.
Jim
Later versions of the rifle dropped both the neat (and very expensive) rotary magazine and the cartridge counter in favor of a plain detachable box magazine.
The .300 Savage is less powerful than the .308 Winchester, but not by a lot. In fact, the .300 Savage was the basis of the .308 but the military rejected it because the short neck could not hold the bullet well enough for proper functioning through machineguns. It is adequate for any game in North America.
One note. The trigger pull on older rifles is usually pretty good, but I strongly recommend not trying to adjust it or work on it. An error in that area can result in the rifle firing before it is locked, wrecking the rifle and possibly injuring the shooter.
Jim
rangermonroe
New member
Check out this website www.savageshooters.com, They are a wealth of info on Savage things.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Generally breakdown on a Savage 99 is not recommended.
Most of the cleaning should be done with the stock dismounted but the action intact.
Only in serious cases should you attempt to disassemble the action, and then only the breech bolt and lever.
A better bet is to simply use one of the aerosol products to flush it out, and then an oil dropper to relubricate everything.
If you ever need to disassmble the rotary magazine, my only advice is...
DON'T!
Find yourself a gunsmith who has worked on Savage 99s before.
I disassembled the magazine on my circa 1936 EG in .300 some years ago to give it a very thorough cleaning.
I really didn't think I was going to be able to get it back together properly. It comes apart fairly easily, but you need a lot more hands than nature gave you to get it back together.
Most of the cleaning should be done with the stock dismounted but the action intact.
Only in serious cases should you attempt to disassemble the action, and then only the breech bolt and lever.
A better bet is to simply use one of the aerosol products to flush it out, and then an oil dropper to relubricate everything.
If you ever need to disassmble the rotary magazine, my only advice is...
DON'T!
Find yourself a gunsmith who has worked on Savage 99s before.
I disassembled the magazine on my circa 1936 EG in .300 some years ago to give it a very thorough cleaning.
I really didn't think I was going to be able to get it back together properly. It comes apart fairly easily, but you need a lot more hands than nature gave you to get it back together.
I hear you, Mike, but one of the problems for folks with guns like that is that gunsmiths who actually know what they are doing with them are getting darned thin on the ground. Too many nice old guns are being wrecked by selfstyled "gunsmiths" who think there are only two guns - AR-15's and 1911 clones.
Jim
Jim
Mike Irwin
Staff
That's why I said this, Jim...
"Find yourself a gunsmith who has worked on Savage 99s before."
Not, "find any old gunsmith, or person who calls himself a gunsmith, to work on your gun. You'll be fine. Probably."
"Find yourself a gunsmith who has worked on Savage 99s before."
Not, "find any old gunsmith, or person who calls himself a gunsmith, to work on your gun. You'll be fine. Probably."
Savage 1899
Thank you for the advice. The guys at Turner's Outdoorsman have turned out to have a plethora of information on good gunsmiths. To all of you who contributed to this post, Thank you. Living in Commi-Fornia doesn't make it easy to get answers to "GUN" questions. Most people look at you like you have the plague and try to ignorantly persuade you as to why it's unnecessary to defend yourself against an armed intruder. My response is "If my dashing good looks were enough than I could afford armed guards". If Hell existed on this earth it would be located in Politically-Correct-Commi-Fornia.
Thank you for the advice. The guys at Turner's Outdoorsman have turned out to have a plethora of information on good gunsmiths. To all of you who contributed to this post, Thank you. Living in Commi-Fornia doesn't make it easy to get answers to "GUN" questions. Most people look at you like you have the plague and try to ignorantly persuade you as to why it's unnecessary to defend yourself against an armed intruder. My response is "If my dashing good looks were enough than I could afford armed guards". If Hell existed on this earth it would be located in Politically-Correct-Commi-Fornia.
What Mike said
I cannot urge you strongly enough, follow his advice. DO NOT TAKE APART THE MAGAZINE! In fact, do not disassemble the action at all if you can help it.
I inherited a Model 99 in .300 Savage from my father. Older gun, brass cartridge counter, 24" bbl, safety on the lever, schnabel forend, checkered stock. The safety was on when I got the gun, and took some soaking in WD-40 and a couple of judicious "raps" to get it to move. The action was all gummed up from the dried oil, as the gun had not been used in many years.
I was going to take it all apart and clean it up, but I was smart enough (got lucky) and found the instructions before I started. NRA's book Firearms Disassembly (vol 2 IIRC), and justr looking at the instructions (and WARNINGS) about the magazine convinced me it was nothing I wanted any part of. I did clean it using WD-40, and then other spray cleaners, and today the rifles cycles and shoots quite well. One word of advice, .300 Savage ammo is not a very commonly stocked caliber in the west. You may have to go to a few places before you find it on the shelf. You may get lucky and find someplace right away, or you may have to look around a bit.
It is a bit more popular in the east (where I grew up).
You can, of course order it, it is still in production. Remington loads the 150gr and 180gr bullets. It may cost a bit more than more popular calibers, but not a lot.
I cannot urge you strongly enough, follow his advice. DO NOT TAKE APART THE MAGAZINE! In fact, do not disassemble the action at all if you can help it.
I inherited a Model 99 in .300 Savage from my father. Older gun, brass cartridge counter, 24" bbl, safety on the lever, schnabel forend, checkered stock. The safety was on when I got the gun, and took some soaking in WD-40 and a couple of judicious "raps" to get it to move. The action was all gummed up from the dried oil, as the gun had not been used in many years.
I was going to take it all apart and clean it up, but I was smart enough (got lucky) and found the instructions before I started. NRA's book Firearms Disassembly (vol 2 IIRC), and justr looking at the instructions (and WARNINGS) about the magazine convinced me it was nothing I wanted any part of. I did clean it using WD-40, and then other spray cleaners, and today the rifles cycles and shoots quite well. One word of advice, .300 Savage ammo is not a very commonly stocked caliber in the west. You may have to go to a few places before you find it on the shelf. You may get lucky and find someplace right away, or you may have to look around a bit.
It is a bit more popular in the east (where I grew up).
You can, of course order it, it is still in production. Remington loads the 150gr and 180gr bullets. It may cost a bit more than more popular calibers, but not a lot.
Mike Irwin
Staff
I'd really advise skipping the 180-gr. bullets in .300 Savage.
I was never all that wowed by the 180's ballistics.
My Model 99, built in 1936, just lOVES bullets between 150-165 gr., though, and that's where the cartridge really shines, as far as I'm concerned.
I was never all that wowed by the 180's ballistics.
My Model 99, built in 1936, just lOVES bullets between 150-165 gr., though, and that's where the cartridge really shines, as far as I'm concerned.
Book
A friend of mine has a book on the Savage 99. He is very posessive of it, because it cost $35 for a paperback! using his book, I was able to date my rifle to 1956, by a combination of serial number range, which sights it has, and where the "Model 99" is located on the reciever.
Reloading books put the introduction of the .300 Savage at 1920.
A friend of mine has a book on the Savage 99. He is very posessive of it, because it cost $35 for a paperback! using his book, I was able to date my rifle to 1956, by a combination of serial number range, which sights it has, and where the "Model 99" is located on the reciever.
Reloading books put the introduction of the .300 Savage at 1920.