Savage 12 not striking primer

D

deepcore

New member
My son's Savge F12 in .223 began not striking primers (about 2 out of 10) with audible "click" on pulling the trigger. Not even a dent. Had to recock and then it would fire fine.
He (and I) were making sure we were depressing the AccuRelease lever when pulling the trigger.
I disassembled the bolt and cleaned it. So my questions are:

1. Is there a recommended torque setting for the hex-head bolt in the rear of the bolt assembly? I believe that having that not tightened down enough could lead to unwanted headspace changes.

2. If the problem continues I think a new firing pin spring is in order. I did a search but seem to only come up with springs for Savage 110s. Is that the same/compatible part? Any thoughts on a stronger than factory spring helping ensure more reliability?

Thanks
 
I have repaired this problem before. The problem is not the firing pin spring, the problem is in the trigger assembly. If the trigger overtravel is adjusted too close, the nose of the sear falling between the adjustment screw and the trigger bar will trap the sear, not allowing the sear to release.
 
Did the trouble start before or after the bolt disassembly? That bolt can be assembled wrong and not have enough firing pin protrusion.

Jim
 
Cleaned, (lightly) oiled, and reassembled the bolt.
I just tightened the main bolt at the back end of the bolt all the way.
It sounds like things are working but, since one can't see if the firing pin is:
1. Protruding at all or...
2. Protruding enough.

How can one check?

I know I could see if it will consistenly fire live rounds.
Not advisable in a garage, and was hoping not to lug everything to the range just to see if it works.

All my snap caps have indentations already from dropping the "hammer" prior to storage in the safe.

Can I put something in the primer pocket of an empty brass case like a plastic/styrene rod of the same diameter as the primer pocket. Slice of a set, place a piece in the primer pocket, and see if the firing pin leaves a mark?
Then repeat a few times.
 
A trip to the range is in order deepcore, firetest is the only trustworthy way unless,,,,,,,, if your a handloader try dropping the hammer on a capped piece of brass, you know pull the bullet and pour out the powder, it's still loud but won't be to unsafe if pointed into a sand filled barrel.;)
 
Take fired casing with the spent primer still intact, one small piece of regular/cheap/inexpensive aluminum foil( stuff from a dollar store ). The foil needs to be just big enough to cover the head of the used casing with the ends rolled into the extraction groove. Apply foil to casing head and slowly and gently rub the foil til it fits the casing head like a layer of skin. Carefully insert into chamber, gently close bolt. Point weapon in safe direction and fire/pull trigger. Slowly and carefully open bolt with strong hand while catching the casing as it is removed from chamber with your weak hand. Examine casing head/primer area to see if the firing pin hit home. This will work most of the time on rifles, shotguns, and handguns when going to the range or using a bullet trap is not timely or feasable. It works best if you use regular aluminum foil( the cheap stuff ), not the heavy duty tin-foil. Make sure the ends of the foil are fully pressed into the extraction groove or the casing might not chamber completely.....good luck with the FV-12....:cool:
 
Will be taking the F 12 to the range in the meantime on a hunch I dug up a batch of Handytak in my modeling desk drawer.

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I broke of a piece big enough to fill the primer pocket and sit flush with an empty case head. Placed empty case in chamber... closed the bolt...pulled the trigger and you can see the dent in the HandyTak made by the firing pin.


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After each trigger pull I only needed to extract the empty case and smooth out the dent with a finger tip and redo the test.
 

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