Sav-2 rifle basix trigger ?

B

bamaranger

New member
I am now the proud owner of a Rifle Basix Sav-2 trigger that will go on my F/TR rifle. The instructional DVD mention modifying the sear, removing a "sharp edge" with fine supposedly 320 wet/dry sand paper. But the picture leaves a bit to be desired. There is also literature in the package that says that the adjustment screws are NOT loctited, but there are two big globs of red on the safety and overtravel adjustment screws. The video shows the trigger being installed piece by piece, but the unit arrives assembled in the packing. Whats the deal?

I've heard nothing but good stuff about the trigger, but am a bit disappointed on the install video and instructions. All seems a bit vague and contradictory.

I would like to hear from some folks that have installed a Basix trigger on an older savage 110 action.
 
Is it not a direct replacement with no modifications required? If it is a drop in unit, then I wouldn't worry too much about modifying anything with sand paper until you've tried it in factory form...
 
installed

Well, I put the trigger in the rifle, disassembling the new unit to follow the instructions as per the video. Removing the factory trigger, disassembling the new Sav-2, and the install of same were not that bad a task at all. I did bump the sear edges with a soft stone, just a pass or two. NOt so much the edges, but the angles, if that makes sense.

I then spent about 6 hrs tweaking the pull weight, and sear engagement adjustment screws, and alternating the pull weight springs (the unit comes w/ two, heavy and light) and trigger pivot pin holes (there are 3). If you go this route, and are searching for a match target trigger, go straight to the red (recommended for light pull weights) spring. I used the center pivot hole , as the front hole yielded too light a pull that I could not get consistent. I wasted (well not a good word, but the first one that came to mind) a good bit of time trying to get the white spring to work and varying pivot pin holes, which was pretty maddening.

Not put it on a gauge yet, but I suspect it's at less than 2 lbs, likely 1.5.
It will not bump off, though the sear will not set if one gets really froggy with closing the bolt. A world better than the factory trigger, which was a simple, std Savage 110 (vintage)

It is not quite where I want it, just a hint of creep, but it will have to do.
An F-T/R match in two weeks, and I don't have all my ammo loaded.

All in all a good trigger, that likely has even more potential than I'm getting from it. I don't feel like I have the full value of the cost of the thing (their pricey!!) but again, the potential is there.
 
It will not bump off, though the sear will not set if one gets really froggy with closing the bolt.
Click to expand...

That is generally considered just as unsafe as a faulty safety, or a sear that randomly slips off the trigger.
 
I don't recall any problems when I installed mine. I just followed the instructions to the letter and it works just as advertised. I will say that due to my short attention span, I watch the video (DVD) repeatedly. It might take a little time to achive the trigger weight desired, but over all, the results are worth the time and effort. Good Luck!:)
 
Bama, glad it worked out for you. I've looked into the Savage 2 trigger as well but the reviews turned me off (poor instructions was the main one). So I went with the Sharp Shooter Supply (SSS) Competition trigger which adjusts from 12oz to 2lbs.

They are cheaper as well ($97 each shipped), I have two more on order as we speak and they will give you a discount if you buy two or more. They will be going into my .223 AI and .243 fast twist rifles. They simply bolt in and then you follow the directions to adjust them for safe operation.

If you want an even lighter trigger SSS offers and Evolution trigger that can get down to the 4oz range. However I'd pay to SSS install that one with a T&T of the action. At 4oz I want to make darn sure the safety is still operational.

All of the triggers mentioned though are not good hunting triggers IMO. Get a old Savage 3 screw or the Rifle Basix and Timney versions of it for hunting. Not as nice of a trigger but much better for hunting.
 
couldn't leave well enough alone!!!!

After reading F-Mausers comments I went back and dorked with the rifle some more. I dunno. If the bolt is run forward hard (not locked closed), the sear never engages, it just jumps the notch. When the bolt handle is lowered the rifle is already uncocked, its not like its slipping off. My impression is that the entire "intermediate lever" moves (down) when the bolt bangs forward and the sear tab never catches. No amount increasing sear engagement will touch this. I can back the engagement screw clear out, and it will still happen.

I'm going back down to the den and fool with it some more, but I don't have much hope. I probably should have left the darn thing alone.

What I need to do I guess is call the mfg and see what he has to say.

I will keep everybody posted.
 
I'm sorry I caused you more frustration.

I just don't like it when rifles have known malfunctions. They tend to be forgotten, until the malfunction rears its ugly head at the worst possible time.

A sear slipping is one of the biggest things that worries me with fire control mechanisms.

My father had a Weatherby Vanguard that had the same problem you describe. It wasn't an issue, so long as the bolt was not operated quickly. ....Until it started randomly discharging, because the sear was slipping after the bolt was closed. :eek:

It doesn't really apply to your situation, but I couldn't tell you how the problem was fixed, anyway. He ran a super-hot load through the rifle, even while blowing primers, until the bolt locked up (moron). When he got the repaired rifle back from Weatherby, the fire control mechanism was fixed.
 
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